Drop the OsmAnd-recolor map theme, add offline labels and a lighter palette nudge

Remove osmand-style.js (the per-layer color-patching approach) and its
docs entirely — back to the plain OpenFreeMap "liberty" style online,
and protomaps-themes-base's stock theme offline as the base.

Offline maps previously had no text labels at all: the
protomaps-themes-base layers() call never passed a lang option, which
is required to include its label layers. Fixed, backed by vendored
Noto Sans Regular/Italic/Medium glyph PBFs (ranges 0-255 and 256-511
only — Basic Latin + Latin-1 Supplement + Latin Extended-A, enough for
accented Central European place names; other scripts won't render
offline). Verified against the actual offline.pmtiles vector layer
schema that the name/name:en/script fields this expects are present.

Also nudge a handful of OFFLINE_THEME color roles (background, water,
wood, buildings, the two road-importance tiers) towards the online
style's actual palette (sampled from its style JSON) so switching
Online/Offline doesn't look like two different apps — deliberately
partial, not the removed full recolor.

public/js/map.js

@@ -7,24 +7,41 @@ import {
 import { RadarControl } from "/js/radar.js";
 import { GpxPanelControl } from "/js/gpx.js";
 import { GnssControl } from "/js/gnss.js";
-import { onlineStyle, offlineTheme } from "/js/osmand-style.js";
 import { LAYERS_ICON } from "/js/icons.js";
 import { notifySidePanelOpen, onlyOneSidePanelOpen } from "/js/panels.js";
 
 const CENTER = [17.1077, 48.1486];
 const ZOOM = 13;
+const ONLINE_STYLE = "https://tiles.openfreemap.org/styles/liberty";
 
 const protocol = new pmtiles.Protocol();
 addProtocol("pmtiles", protocol.tile);
 
-// No label layers here (see docs/architecture.adoc): rendering text needs a
-// glyphs server, which the offline style deliberately does not depend on.
+// A few color roles nudged from protomaps-themes-base's stock "light" theme
+// towards the online OpenFreeMap "liberty" style's actual palette (sampled
+// from its style JSON — see docs/architecture.adoc), so switching between
+// Online/Offline doesn't look like two different apps. Not a full recolor:
+// most roles (labels, casings, minor terrain fills, ...) are left at their
+// theme defaults.
+const OFFLINE_THEME = {
+  ...protomaps_themes_base.namedTheme("light"),
+  background: "#f8f4f0",
+  earth: "#f8f4f0",
+  water: "#9ebdff",
+  wood_a: "#ace38c",
+  wood_b: "#ace38c",
+  buildings: "#dcd9d6",
+  highway: "#f2934a",
+  major: "#ffeeaa",
+  link: "#ffeeaa",
+};
+
 function offlineStyle() {
-  const theme = offlineTheme(protomaps_themes_base.namedTheme("light"));
   const pmtilesUrl = `${window.location.origin}/tiles/offline.pmtiles`;
 
   return {
     version: 8,
+    glyphs: `${window.location.origin}/vendor/fonts/{fontstack}/{range}.pbf`,
     sources: {
       offline: {
         type: "vector",
@@ -32,7 +49,10 @@ function offlineStyle() {
         attribution: "© OpenStreetMap contributors",
       },
     },
-    layers: protomaps_themes_base.layers("offline", theme),
+    // lang: "en" pulls in labels_layers (see docs/architecture.adoc) — only
+    // the Latin-script glyph ranges are vendored, so labels using other
+    // scripts won't render offline.
+    layers: protomaps_themes_base.layers("offline", OFFLINE_THEME, { lang: "en" }),
   };
 }
 
@@ -83,7 +103,7 @@ class LayerToggleControl {
 
 const map = new MaplibreMap({
   container: "map",
-  style: await onlineStyle(),
+  style: ONLINE_STYLE,
   center: CENTER,
   zoom: ZOOM,
 });
@@ -108,9 +128,9 @@ new GpxPanelControl(map).mount(sidebar);
 new RadarControl(map).mount(sidebar);
 new GnssControl(map).mount(sidebar);
 
-async function applyStyle(name) {
+function applyStyle(name) {
   layerToggle.setActive(name);
-  map.setStyle(name === "offline" ? offlineStyle() : await onlineStyle());
+  map.setStyle(name === "offline" ? offlineStyle() : ONLINE_STYLE);
 }
 
 // If a local PMTiles file is present, prefer it as the default style — its