diff --git a/Dockerfile b/Dockerfile
index 89e6fea..447d04f 100644
--- a/Dockerfile
+++ b/Dockerfile
@@ -3,9 +3,14 @@ FROM ruby:4.0.6-slim-bookworm
 # build-essential: puma has a native (C) extension; harmless if the
 # platform-specific gem in Gemfile.lock already has a precompiled binary
 # matching this base image, but keeps the build working if it doesn't.
-# ca-certificates/curl: needed for the go-pmtiles download below (also
-# handy for anyone debugging inside a running container).
-RUN apt-get update && apt-get install --no-install-recommends -y build-essential ca-certificates curl \
+# ca-certificates/curl: needed for the go-pmtiles/planetiler.jar downloads
+# below (also handy for anyone debugging inside a running container).
+# default-jre-headless: Planetiler is a JVM tool (see PLANETILER_VERSION
+# below) — headless since this never touches a display.
+# osmium-tool: merges multiple countries' OSM extracts into one file before
+# handing them to Planetiler (lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb) — a normal
+# Debian package, no separate download/pinning needed like the other two.
+RUN apt-get update && apt-get install --no-install-recommends -y build-essential ca-certificates curl default-jre-headless osmium-tool \
   && rm -rf /var/lib/apt/lists/*
 
 # The `pmtiles` CLI (lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb's "Regenerate for
@@ -26,6 +31,15 @@ RUN set -eux; \
   curl -fsSL "https://github.com/protomaps/go-pmtiles/releases/download/v${PMTILES_VERSION}/go-pmtiles_${PMTILES_VERSION}_Linux_${pmtiles_arch}.tar.gz" \
     | tar xz -C /usr/local/bin pmtiles
 
+# Planetiler (lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb's offline.pmtiles build,
+# replacing an earlier Protomaps-CDN-based pipeline — see
+# docs/development.adoc) — a single JVM fat jar, no per-arch variant needed
+# unlike go-pmtiles above. Default PLANETILER_JAR path (pmtiles_builder.rb)
+# expects it here.
+ARG PLANETILER_VERSION=0.10.2
+RUN curl -fsSL "https://github.com/onthegomap/planetiler/releases/download/v${PLANETILER_VERSION}/planetiler.jar" \
+    -o /usr/local/lib/planetiler.jar
+
 WORKDIR /app
 
 COPY Gemfile Gemfile.lock ./
diff --git a/TODO.adoc b/TODO.adoc
index abf11fc..7d9a18e 100644
--- a/TODO.adoc
+++ b/TODO.adoc
@@ -8,7 +8,7 @@ independence from connectivity.
 
 == Offline data and cartography
 
-* [ ] Offline vector tiles (PMTiles/MBTiles) for Europe/world via Planetiler or MapTiler
+* [x] Offline vector tiles (PMTiles/MBTiles) for Europe/world via Planetiler or MapTiler — Geofabrik per-country extracts, `osmium merge`, Planetiler's default OpenMapTiles profile straight to PMTiles (`lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb`); offline now shares the exact same style/palette as online (`ONLINE_STYLE_PATCH`) instead of a separate protomaps-schema theme
 * [x] Shaded relief / DEM layer — hillshade toggle in the sidebar, sourced from public Terrarium tiles online; reads `data/terrain.pmtiles` for offline if one's been generated (see docs/development.adoc), otherwise the toggle is online-only for now
 ** [ ] Terrain slope readout for parking (numeric, not just visual shading)
 * [ ] Contour lines from OSM for hikes and mountain passes
diff --git a/app.rb b/app.rb
index 2a2b678..5bcf475 100644
--- a/app.rb
+++ b/app.rb
@@ -260,10 +260,9 @@ module Maptool
     end
 
     # Regenerates offline.pmtiles for the currently selected regions (see
-    # POST /api/offline-regions above) by extracting them from Protomaps'
-    # own daily full-planet basemap build — see
-    # lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb. Runs in the background; poll
-    # build-status below for progress.
+    # POST /api/offline-regions above) by downloading each from Geofabrik
+    # and tiling them with Planetiler — see lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb.
+    # Runs in the background; poll build-status below for progress.
     post "/api/offline-tiles/build" do
       require_login!
       begin
diff --git a/docker-compose.yaml b/docker-compose.yaml
index d656209..d86f454 100644
--- a/docker-compose.yaml
+++ b/docker-compose.yaml
@@ -60,7 +60,11 @@ services:
       # docs/development.adoc for how the deploy job treats this
       # directory). A private plugin (app.rb's PLUGINS_DIRS) also belongs
       # under here, at data/plugins/<name>/ — nothing further to mount,
-      # this one bind already covers the whole data/ tree.
+      # this one bind already covers the whole data/ tree. An offline.pmtiles
+      # build's own scratch work (Dir.mktmpdir, lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb)
+      # happens outside this mount, in the container's own filesystem — a
+      # large country's .osm.pbf plus Planetiler's working set can be
+      # several GB, worth knowing if the host is ever short on space there.
       - ./data:/app/data
 
   # Fakes a GNSS fix (a loop around Bratislava, see
diff --git a/docs/architecture.adoc b/docs/architecture.adoc
index 622be2c..3b3b665 100644
--- a/docs/architecture.adoc
+++ b/docs/architecture.adoc
@@ -44,18 +44,33 @@ opened in a browser.
 
 Map data is vector, not raster: the app ships
 https://maplibre.org[MapLibre GL JS] (vendored, see below) and the map
-view (`public/js/map.js`) offers two styles:
+view (`public/js/map.js`) offers two styles, both **the same
+OpenMapTiles-schema Liberty style** (https://tiles.openfreemap.org/styles/liberty[OpenFreeMap
+"liberty"]), just pointed at different vector sources:
 
-* *Online* — a full hosted vector style,
-  https://tiles.openfreemap.org/styles/liberty[OpenFreeMap "liberty"],
+* *Online* — Liberty's own hosted tiles, `tiles.openfreemap.org`,
   requires internet access.
-* *Offline* — built at runtime from a local
-  https://github.com/protomaps/PMTiles[PMTiles] archive at
-  `data/offline.pmtiles`, served as-is (see below) at
-  `/tiles/offline.pmtiles`, decoded client-side by
+* *Offline* — a local https://github.com/protomaps/PMTiles[PMTiles]
+  archive at `data/offline.pmtiles`, built by
+  https://github.com/onthegomap/planetiler[Planetiler] from an OSM
+  extract (see `docs/development.adoc`), served as-is at
+  `/tiles/offline.pmtiles` and decoded client-side by
   https://github.com/protomaps/PMTiles[pmtiles.js] registered as a
-  `pmtiles://` protocol handler, and styled with base layers from
-  https://github.com/protomaps/basemaps[protomaps-themes-base].
+  `pmtiles://` protocol handler.
+
+Using the same schema both ways is deliberate: an earlier version of
+this app built offline tiles from Protomaps' own basemap schema
+instead, which needed a *separate* hand-tuned theme
+(`protomaps-themes-base` + a since-removed `OFFLINE_THEME`) to
+approximate the online look — two independently-maintained palettes
+that drifted out of sync (building opacity, road casings, park
+boundaries) every time one side changed. Planetiler's default profile
+*is* OpenMapTiles, so `offlineStyle()` now just clones the same parsed
+Liberty JSON `ONLINE_STYLE` already fetched, repoints its `sources`,
+`glyphs`, and `sprite` at local copies, and applies the exact same
+`ONLINE_STYLE_PATCH` recolor (below) — one palette, one place to tune
+it, correct on both sides by construction rather than by re-checking
+every time something changes.
 
 `GET /api/offline-tiles` reports whether `data/offline.pmtiles` is
 present (`{"available": true|false}`); the frontend uses it once, on
@@ -72,28 +87,35 @@ support) just returns byte ranges of the file; pmtiles.js in the
 browser reads the archive's own directory and requests only the bytes
 it needs for the tiles on screen.
 
-=== Offline text labels and color palette
+No PMTiles file ships with the repository — it is built locally or
+in-app (see `docs/development.adoc`) and stays gitignored because such
+extracts are typically large binary files. Geofabrik's per-country
+extracts are OSM data, ODbL-licensed, same attribution
+(`© OpenStreetMap contributors`) the map already shows either way — no
+separate licensing story the way the old Protomaps-basemap pipeline's
+NPS-Park-Tiles color research needed.
+
+=== Offline text labels, sprite, and color palette
 
 Label rendering in MapLibre needs a "glyphs" server serving font PBF
-ranges (256 Unicode code points each); `data/offline.pmtiles`'s fields
-(`name`, `name:en`, `script`, ...) match what
-`protomaps-themes-base`'s `layers(source, theme, { lang: "en" })`
-expects for its label layers (verified against the actual PMTiles
-vector layer schema), so passing that option turns labels on. The
-glyphs themselves are vendored under `public/vendor/fonts/` — Noto
-Sans Regular/Italic/Medium, ranges `0-255` and `256-511`
-(Basic Latin + Latin-1 Supplement + Latin Extended-A, SIL OFL
-licensed, from
+ranges (256 Unicode code points each). The glyphs Liberty's style
+references are vendored under `public/vendor/fonts/` — Noto Sans
+Regular/Italic/Medium, ranges `0-255` and `256-511` (Basic Latin +
+Latin-1 Supplement + Latin Extended-A, SIL OFL licensed, from
 https://github.com/protomaps/basemaps-assets[protomaps/basemaps-assets]),
 covering accented Latin place names (Slovak, Czech, Polish, German,
 ...). Labels in other scripts (Cyrillic, Greek, CJK, ...) won't render
-offline, since those glyph ranges aren't vendored.
+offline, since those glyph ranges aren't vendored. Liberty's icon
+sprite (shields, POI icons) is likewise vendored as a one-time
+snapshot under `public/vendor/liberty-sprite/` — both `offlineStyle()`
+and the online style otherwise share identical `glyphs`/`sprite`
+roles, just resolved to local vs. `tiles.openfreemap.org` URLs.
 
-`public/js/map.js`'s `OFFLINE_THEME` nudges a couple dozen color roles
-from `protomaps-themes-base`'s stock "light" theme towards the
-National Park Service's own "Park Tiles" cartography — a warm,
-Harpers-Ferry-Center-derived look. A few of these values are the
-genuine paint colors pulled from a public Park Tiles style JSON
+`public/js/map.js`'s `ONLINE_STYLE_PATCH` — applied to whichever
+source is loaded, online or offline (see above) — nudges Liberty's
+OpenMapTiles layer ids towards a warm, National Park Service
+"Park Tiles"-inspired look. A few of these values are the genuine
+paint colors pulled from a public Park Tiles style JSON
 (`nps.gov/lib/npmap.js/style/ck72fwp2642dv07o7tbqinvz4.json`, the
 "Imagery" variant — the only one of NPS's four styles served from a
 plain, unauthenticated URL; "Standard"/"Slate"/"Light" resolve through
@@ -101,50 +123,36 @@ Mapbox Studio's private API with an access token, which isn't
 something to piggyback on even though it's technically visible in
 their own JS bundle) — background, the park/protected-area green, the
 two road-importance tiers, and the park-boundary line color. The rest
-are reasoned to match that same warm family (olive greens, muted blue)
-rather than sourced. This is deliberately partial — labels, casings,
-and roles with no clean real-color anchor are left at theme
-defaults — not the kind of full per-layer recolor a previous iteration
-of this app did (and removed, along with any dependency on OsmAnd's
-own tile server, which this app cannot use per OsmAnd's terms
-restricting tile use to "personal, non-commercial use within OsmAnd
-applications and platforms").
+are reasoned to match that same warm family (olive greens, muted blue,
+brown road casings) rather than sourced. This is deliberately
+partial — labels, halos, rail, and minor overlays (cemetery/hospital/
+school/pitch/track shading) are left at Liberty's own defaults.
 +
 Recreating the *color choices* is fine — that's not the kind of thing
 a data license restricts — but the actual Park Tiles *service* stays
 off-limits: its OSM/terrain layers are licensed through Mapbox Atlas
 (a commercial, non-sublicensable data service scoped to NPS), and it's
 built for park visitors specifically (park-unit and trailhead
-labeling prioritized), not general-purpose worldwide cartography.
+labeling prioritized), not general-purpose worldwide cartography —
+irrelevant to this app either way now, since it never talks to NPS's
+tile service, only ever OpenFreeMap/Geofabrik.
 
-No PMTiles file ships with the repository — it is expected to be
-supplied locally (see `docs/development.adoc`) and stays gitignored
-because such extracts are typically large binary files.
-
-The Online map (OpenFreeMap Liberty) gets the same treatment via
-`ONLINE_STYLE_PATCH`, a separate hand-built table — Liberty is an
-OpenMapTiles-schema style, with its own layer ids (`landcover_wood`,
-`road_secondary_tertiary`, `boundary_2`, ...) that don't correspond to
-protomaps' theme roles, so the two palettes can't share one object,
-only the same underlying color choices. `loadOnlineStyle`
-(`public/js/map.js`) fetches Liberty's `style.json` once, patches it
-in place, and uses the resulting object everywhere `ONLINE_STYLE` used
-to be a plain URL string — MapLibre accepts a style object anywhere it
-accepts a style URL, so `applyStyle`'s `map.setStyle(... : ONLINE_STYLE)`
-needed no change. That fetch runs before the map (and the rest of the
-page) is constructed — a top-level `await` — so there's no flash of
-Liberty's own colors before the patch lands; a 3s timeout and a
-catch-all fall back to the plain URL (letting MapLibre fetch and
-render it unpatched) rather than block the whole page's startup on a
-remote style server, since this app is meant to keep working offline
-in the field, independent of whether the online map itself loads.
-Only the layers that dominate the map's overall color read are
-patched (land cover, water, parks, roads, boundaries, buildings) —
-same deliberately-partial scope as `OFFLINE_THEME`, not a full
-per-layer recolor. Road casings are the one addition with no
-protomaps-role equivalent to reuse, since offline roads don't get a
-separate outline color there; `#c9a66b` is reasoned to fit the family
-rather than sourced from anywhere real.
+`loadOnlineStyle` (`public/js/map.js`) fetches Liberty's live
+`style.json` once, patches it in place, and uses the resulting object
+everywhere `ONLINE_STYLE` used to be a plain URL string — MapLibre
+accepts a style object anywhere it accepts a style URL, so
+`applyStyle`'s `map.setStyle(... : ONLINE_STYLE)` needed no change.
+That fetch runs before the map (and the rest of the page) is
+constructed — a top-level `await` — so there's no flash of Liberty's
+own colors before the patch lands; a 3s timeout and a catch-all fall
+back to the plain URL (letting MapLibre fetch and render it unpatched)
+rather than block the whole page's startup on a remote style server.
+Offline mode can't rely on that same live fetch succeeding — the field
+usage this app is built for is exactly when it won't — so
+`offlineStyle()` instead clones a vendored, point-in-time snapshot of
+the same Liberty JSON (`public/vendor/liberty-style/liberty.json`),
+patches it the same way, and repoints it at the local PMTiles/glyphs/
+sprite described above.
 
 == Map permalink
 
diff --git a/docs/development.adoc b/docs/development.adoc
index 7d49a2a..894eef3 100644
--- a/docs/development.adoc
+++ b/docs/development.adoc
@@ -23,40 +23,31 @@ explicit cache headers, so an edit to `public/` (or `views/`) can
 appear not to have taken effect on the next reload. Force a real
 reload (e.g. Ctrl/Cmd+Shift+R) if that happens.
 
-`/theme_preview.html` is a standalone debug page (not linked from the
-app itself) for comparing offline base-map themes side by side: a bare
-`protomaps-themes-base` theme, an iframe of the real app's offline
-style, and one of its online style, with pan/zoom kept in sync across
-all three via the same URL-hash mechanism `map.js` already uses for
-shareable links. It's a plain static file, so nothing gates it to
-development — it's reachable on a production instance too, same as any
-other file under `public/`. Harmless if it stays that way (it shows
-nothing `/` doesn't already), but worth knowing if that's ever not the
-case.
-
 == Offline map data
 
 To enable the offline style, place a PMTiles file at
 `data/offline.pmtiles` (see `docs/architecture.adoc` for how it is
-served and styled). Logged-in users can generate this from the app
-itself — see "In-app regeneration" below — or it can be built by hand:
+served and styled — the same OpenMapTiles schema/style the online map
+uses, just from local data). Logged-in users can generate this from
+the app itself — see "In-app regeneration" below — or it can be built
+by hand:
 
-* Extract a region from Protomaps' own daily full-planet basemap build
-  (https://build-metadata.protomaps.dev/builds.json[build index],
-  files at `https://build.protomaps.com/<key>`, ~120GB, ODbL/OSM
-  attribution) with the
-  https://github.com/protomaps/go-pmtiles[go-pmtiles] CLI's `extract`
-  subcommand, which pulls only the byte ranges covering a bbox over
-  HTTP range requests rather than the whole file:
-  `pmtiles extract https://build.protomaps.com/<key> data/offline.pmtiles --bbox=west,south,east,north --maxzoom=15`.
-  (The old `app.protomaps.com` extract-builder UI this section used to
-  point at has since redirected elsewhere — this is the same
-  underlying mechanism, just the CLI instead of a web UI.)
-* To convert some other vector tile source (e.g. an `.mbtiles` file)
-  into PMTiles instead, use the same CLI's `convert` subcommand:
-  `pmtiles convert in.mbtiles data/offline.pmtiles`. Its schema is
-  what `protomaps-themes-base` (the styling library used for the
-  offline style) expects.
+* Download one or more country extracts from
+  https://download.geofabrik.de[Geofabrik] (`.osm.pbf`, ODbL/OSM
+  attribution) — e.g.
+  `curl -O https://download.geofabrik.de/europe/slovakia-latest.osm.pbf`.
+* If more than one country, merge them with
+  https://github.com/osmcode/osmium-tool[osmium-tool]:
+  `osmium merge slovakia-latest.osm.pbf austria-latest.osm.pbf -o merged.osm.pbf`
+  (each Geofabrik file is already clipped to that country's real
+  border, so no separate bbox/polygon clip step is needed either
+  before or after — skip this step entirely for a single country).
+* Tile it with https://github.com/onthegomap/planetiler[Planetiler]'s
+  default profile, which *is* OpenMapTiles — no `--profile` flag
+  needed — writing PMTiles directly:
+  `java -jar planetiler.jar --osm-path=merged.osm.pbf --output=data/offline.pmtiles`
+  (needs Java 21+; `planetiler.jar` from
+  https://github.com/onthegomap/planetiler/releases/latest[the latest release]).
 
 Once the file is in place, `GET /api/offline-tiles` reports
 `available: true` and the map defaults to the offline style.
@@ -113,14 +104,15 @@ just what changed — fine given extraction is fast (byte-range requests
 against remote archives, not per-tile fetches), but worth revisiting if
 someone selects half of Europe at once and finds it slow.
 
-This wraps exactly the manual `go-pmtiles` workflows documented above
-(`lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb`) — the server needs the
-https://github.com/protomaps/go-pmtiles[go-pmtiles] CLI installed and
-on `PATH` (override with the `PMTILES_BIN` env var if it lives
-somewhere else), using `--region=<geojson>` (a `FeatureCollection` of
-the selected countries — go-pmtiles treats multiple features as their
-union already, no union/dissolve math needed on this side) rather than
-`--bbox=` for precise, per-country extraction. terrain.pmtiles extracts
+This wraps exactly the manual workflows documented above
+(`lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb`). offline.pmtiles downloads each
+selected country's Geofabrik extract, `osmium merge`s them if there's
+more than one, then tiles the result with Planetiler — the server
+needs `osmium` and `java` + `planetiler.jar` installed and on `PATH`
+(override with the `OSMIUM_BIN`/`JAVA_BIN`/`PLANETILER_JAR` env vars if
+they live somewhere else; the Docker image installs all three, see
+`Dockerfile`). terrain.pmtiles still uses `go-pmtiles`
+(`PMTILES_BIN`) against Mapterhorn, unrelated to this — it extracts
 `planet.pmtiles` (always) plus whichever Mapterhorn regional chunks
 intersect the selection, `merge`s them if there was more than one —
 always safe regardless of how many/which countries are selected, since
@@ -139,18 +131,20 @@ starting a second while one's running gets a 409, as does starting
 either with nothing selected yet.
 
 Each successful build also writes a small sidecar (`offline.pmtiles.
-meta.json` / `terrain.pmtiles.meta.json` — the Protomaps build date used,
-or the Mapterhorn source names/md5sums) recording what was actually
-built, since the `.pmtiles` file itself carries no such record. `GET
-/api/offline-tiles`/`/api/terrain-tiles` include it as `meta`, shown in
-the panel next to the existing size/updated line. `GET .../check-update`
-compares that recorded build against the live upstream index/manifest
-(without rebuilding anything) and reports `update_available: true/false/
-null` — `null` means "don't know" (no local build yet, or the upstream
-check itself failed), kept as its own route rather than folded into the
-plain status endpoints above since those are on the page-load hot path
-(the topbar's offline-status dot) and this one reaches an external
-service, only worth doing when the Offline data panel is actually open.
+meta.json` — each source country's code/Geofabrik slug/Last-Modified;
+`terrain.pmtiles.meta.json` — the Mapterhorn source names/md5sums)
+recording what was actually built, since the `.pmtiles` file itself
+carries no such record. `GET /api/offline-tiles`/`/api/terrain-tiles`
+include it as `meta`, shown in the panel next to the existing
+size/updated line. `GET .../check-update` compares that recorded build
+against each source's live upstream state (a Geofabrik `HEAD` per
+country for offline, the Mapterhorn manifest for terrain — without
+rebuilding anything) and reports `update_available: true/false/null` —
+`null` means "don't know" (no local build yet, or a check itself
+failed), kept as its own route rather than folded into the plain
+status endpoints above since those are on the page-load hot path (the
+topbar's offline-status dot) and this one reaches an external service,
+only worth doing when the Offline data panel is actually open.
 
 == Camper-relevant POIs (Overpass)
 
diff --git a/docs/nps-resources.adoc b/docs/nps-resources.adoc
index 12f3a5b..227bb1c 100644
--- a/docs/nps-resources.adoc
+++ b/docs/nps-resources.adoc
@@ -24,8 +24,8 @@ checking here before searching from zero next time.
 | MIT (per `package.json`); the whole `npmap5-plugins` repo is separately
   public domain as a US government work
 
-| Park Tiles color palette (offline + online basemap themes)
-| `public/js/map.js`'s `OFFLINE_THEME` and `ONLINE_STYLE_PATCH`
+| Park Tiles color palette (shared offline + online basemap theme)
+| `public/js/map.js`'s `ONLINE_STYLE_PATCH`
 | Colors only — see <<park-tiles>> for why the actual tile service isn't used
 
 | `overview` (top-right minimap/inset control)
@@ -187,7 +187,7 @@ why this app uses OpenFreeMap Liberty as its actual basemap, not Park
 Tiles — see `docs/architecture.adoc`'s "Offline maps" section.
 
 Recreating the *color choices* is a different matter — not the kind of
-thing a data license restricts — and is what `OFFLINE_THEME` in
+thing a data license restricts — and is what `ONLINE_STYLE_PATCH` in
 `public/js/map.js` actually does (see `docs/architecture.adoc`).
 
 === Public style JSON (source for the real colors we did pull)
@@ -219,11 +219,11 @@ embedded credentials, even when technically reachable:
 |===
 
 Colors actually pulled from the Imagery style JSON and used in
-`OFFLINE_THEME`: background (`hsl(40, 37%, 97%)`, a warm cream), the
+`ONLINE_STYLE_PATCH`: background (`hsl(40, 37%, 97%)`, a warm cream), the
 park/protected-area green (`#b3e378`), the two road-importance tiers
 (`#fdefbe`/`#fef7dd`), and the park-boundary line color (`#546619`, dark
-olive). The rest of `OFFLINE_THEME` extends that same warm/olive family
-by eye rather than from a sourced value.
+olive). The rest of `ONLINE_STYLE_PATCH` extends that same warm/olive
+family by eye rather than from a sourced value.
 
 === Legend / cartographic hierarchy
 
diff --git a/docs/third-party-notices.adoc b/docs/third-party-notices.adoc
index d6d589e..776ff84 100644
--- a/docs/third-party-notices.adoc
+++ b/docs/third-party-notices.adoc
@@ -18,10 +18,6 @@ BSD-3-Clause licensed.
 | 4.5.0
 | https://github.com/protomaps/PMTiles
 
-| protomaps-themes-base
-| 4.5.0
-| https://github.com/protomaps/basemaps
-
 | maplibre-contour (Overlays panel's "Contour lines", `public/js/contour.js`)
 | 0.1.0
 | https://github.com/onthegomap/maplibre-contour
@@ -91,38 +87,62 @@ for free use under the SIL Open Font License" per the site; no
 `OFL.txt` ships in its own download zips, unlike Noto Sans above
 |===
 
-The online map style (not vendored, fetched at runtime when the
-"Online" layer is selected) is
-https://tiles.openfreemap.org/styles/liberty[OpenFreeMap "liberty"],
-built from https://www.openstreetmap.org[OpenStreetMap] data.
+The map style — https://tiles.openfreemap.org/styles/liberty[OpenFreeMap
+"liberty"], built from https://www.openstreetmap.org[OpenStreetMap]
+data — is used two ways (see `docs/architecture.adoc`): fetched live
+at runtime for the "Online" layer, and as a one-time vendored snapshot
+(`public/vendor/liberty-style/liberty.json`) that the "Offline" layer
+repoints at local data instead. Its icon sprite is vendored the same
+way, under `public/vendor/liberty-sprite/` (`ofm.json`/`ofm.png` +
+`@2x` variants, from `tiles.openfreemap.org/sprites/`). Neither has
+been re-checked against a specific upstream version pin the way the
+table above does — re-fetch both from `tiles.openfreemap.org` if
+Liberty's own style/sprite ever visibly drifts from what's vendored.
 
-`terrain.pmtiles` (`lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb`'s in-app
+`data/offline.pmtiles` (`lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb`'s in-app
 regeneration, or the manual recipe in `docs/development.adoc`) is
-extracted at build time, not vendored, from
-https://mapterhorn.com[Mapterhorn] — a Protomaps-affiliated project
-publishing pre-built Terrarium-encoded terrain as PMTiles. Per-region
-source licenses vary (CC-BY-4.0 and similar); see
+built at build time, not vendored, from
+https://download.geofabrik.de[Geofabrik]'s per-country OpenStreetMap
+extracts (ODbL).
+
+`terrain.pmtiles` (same regeneration mechanism) is extracted at build
+time, not vendored, from https://mapterhorn.com[Mapterhorn] — a
+Protomaps-affiliated project publishing pre-built Terrarium-encoded
+terrain as PMTiles. Per-region source licenses vary (CC-BY-4.0 and
+similar); see
 https://download.mapterhorn.com/attribution.json[their own attribution
 list] for the full provenance.
 
 Not a frontend asset like the above, but also baked into this app's own
 Docker image (not a separate container the way kiwix-serve/gpsd are —
-see `docs/deployment.adoc`/`docs/development.adoc`): the `pmtiles` CLI
-(`go-pmtiles`), installed as a static binary in the `Dockerfile` for
-`lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb`'s in-app offline.pmtiles/terrain.pmtiles
-regeneration. BSD-3-Clause, same as pmtiles.js/MapLibre GL above.
+see `docs/deployment.adoc`/`docs/development.adoc`): three CLI tools
+`lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb` shells out to for offline.pmtiles/
+terrain.pmtiles regeneration.
 
-[cols="1,1,2"]
+[cols="1,1,1,2"]
 |===
-| Tool | Version | Source
+| Tool | Version | License | Source
 
 | go-pmtiles (`pmtiles` CLI)
 | 1.31.2
+| BSD-3-Clause
 | https://github.com/protomaps/go-pmtiles
+
+| Planetiler (`planetiler.jar`)
+| 0.10.2
+| Apache-2.0
+| https://github.com/onthegomap/planetiler
+
+| osmium-tool (`osmium`, installed via the `osmium-tool` Debian package)
+| (Debian bookworm's packaged version)
+| GPL-3.0
+| https://github.com/osmcode/osmium-tool
 |===
 
 To update a vendored library: download its package (e.g.
 `npm pack <name>@<version>`), replace the corresponding files under
 `public/vendor/<name>/`, and update the version in this file. To
-update go-pmtiles, bump `PMTILES_VERSION` in the `Dockerfile` and the
-version here.
+update go-pmtiles or Planetiler, bump `PMTILES_VERSION`/
+`PLANETILER_VERSION` in the `Dockerfile` and the version here —
+osmium-tool tracks whatever version Debian bookworm currently packages,
+nothing to pin on this side.
diff --git a/lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb b/lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb
index 6b6cc17..9aa5319 100644
--- a/lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb
+++ b/lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb
@@ -9,12 +9,10 @@ module Maptool
   # Regenerates data/offline.pmtiles and data/terrain.pmtiles for the
   # currently *selected* regions (data/offline_regions.json, an array of
   # Natural Earth iso_a2 country codes — see available_regions/
-  # selected_regions/set_selected_regions below) by shelling out to
-  # go-pmtiles — the same tool docs/development.adoc already documents
-  # running by hand. No job queue: each build runs on its own background
-  # Thread and reports into a Mutex-guarded status Hash a route can poll,
-  # the same shape app.rb's own GNSS poller (GNSS_LATEST/GNSS_LATEST_MUTEX)
-  # already uses.
+  # selected_regions/set_selected_regions below). No job queue: each build
+  # runs on its own background Thread and reports into a Mutex-guarded
+  # status Hash a route can poll, the same shape app.rb's own GNSS poller
+  # (GNSS_LATEST/GNSS_LATEST_MUTEX) already uses.
   module PmtilesBuilder
     class BuildError < StandardError; end
 
@@ -22,24 +20,71 @@ module Maptool
     # countries, filtered to Europe and trimmed to name/iso_a2/iso_a3 —
     # see the plan this was built from for the exact filter. 110m is
     # deliberately coarse (a km or so of border precision, not
-    # survey-grade) — fine for "which tiles to grab," a same-schema swap
+    # survey-grade) — fine for "which country to grab," a same-schema swap
     # to Natural Earth's 50m/10m cut if that ever needs to be tighter.
     REGIONS_FILE = File.join(__dir__, "data", "europe_countries.geojson")
 
-    # Protomaps' own daily full-planet basemap build index — extract_offline
-    # below only pulls the HTTP byte ranges covering the requested region
-    # (go-pmtiles's `extract` supports a remote source over range requests),
-    # never the whole ~120GB file.
-    PROTOMAPS_BUILDS_INDEX = "https://build-metadata.protomaps.dev/builds.json"
-    PROTOMAPS_BUILD_BASE = "https://build.protomaps.com"
+    # Every iso_a2 code in REGIONS_FILE mapped to its Geofabrik download
+    # slug (https://download.geofabrik.de/<slug>-latest.osm.pbf) — Geofabrik
+    # names regions, not ISO codes, and doesn't always split the way a
+    # country border does, so this table exists rather than deriving the
+    # slug from the country name. Two known quirks worth knowing about,
+    # not worth working around:
+    #  - RU has no "europe/" prefix (Russia is its own top-level index,
+    #    and unlike every other entry here is a single ~4GB file covering
+    #    the whole country rather than a European-only slice).
+    #  - GB's "great-britain" slug is England/Scotland/Wales only —
+    #    Northern Ireland lives in "ireland-and-northern-ireland" instead
+    #    (bundled with IE, not GB). Selecting GB alone won't include NI.
+    GEOFABRIK_SLUGS = {
+      "AL" => "europe/albania",
+      "AT" => "europe/austria",
+      "BY" => "europe/belarus",
+      "BE" => "europe/belgium",
+      "BA" => "europe/bosnia-herzegovina",
+      "BG" => "europe/bulgaria",
+      "HR" => "europe/croatia",
+      "CZ" => "europe/czech-republic",
+      "DK" => "europe/denmark",
+      "EE" => "europe/estonia",
+      "FI" => "europe/finland",
+      "FR" => "europe/france",
+      "DE" => "europe/germany",
+      "GR" => "europe/greece",
+      "HU" => "europe/hungary",
+      "IS" => "europe/iceland",
+      "IE" => "europe/ireland-and-northern-ireland",
+      "IT" => "europe/italy",
+      "XK" => "europe/kosovo",
+      "LV" => "europe/latvia",
+      "LT" => "europe/lithuania",
+      "LU" => "europe/luxembourg",
+      "MD" => "europe/moldova",
+      "ME" => "europe/montenegro",
+      "NL" => "europe/netherlands",
+      "MK" => "europe/macedonia",
+      "NO" => "europe/norway",
+      "PL" => "europe/poland",
+      "PT" => "europe/portugal",
+      "RO" => "europe/romania",
+      "RU" => "russia",
+      "RS" => "europe/serbia",
+      "SK" => "europe/slovakia",
+      "SI" => "europe/slovenia",
+      "ES" => "europe/spain",
+      "SE" => "europe/sweden",
+      "CH" => "europe/switzerland",
+      "UA" => "europe/ukraine",
+      "GB" => "europe/great-britain",
+    }.freeze
 
     # Mapterhorn (a Protomaps-affiliated project) publishes Terrarium-
     # encoded terrain as pre-built PMTiles archives: one global
     # planet.pmtiles (z0-12) plus ~450 regional chunks (z13 up to a
-    # per-region max, 13-18) — same "extract only the region's byte ranges
-    # from a remote archive" story as offline.pmtiles above, so no more
-    # fetching individual tiles or building an MBTiles file ourselves the
-    # way an earlier version of this file did.
+    # per-region max, 13-18) — extract_offline below no longer touches
+    # Protomaps at all (see GEOFABRIK_SLUGS above), but terrain stays on
+    # this same "extract only the region's byte ranges from a remote
+    # archive" story via go-pmtiles, unrelated to the basemap swap.
     MAPTERHORN_MANIFEST_URL = "https://download.mapterhorn.com/download_urls.json"
     MAPTERHORN_PLANET_NAME = "planet.pmtiles"
     # Matches the online hillshade layer's own cap (public/js/overlays.js's
@@ -102,28 +147,22 @@ module Maptool
     end
     private_class_method :region_features
 
-    # Writes the FeatureCollection of just the selected countries into
-    # `dir` — this *is* the file go-pmtiles' `--region=` reads. No
-    # union/dissolve needed: go-pmtiles treats a FeatureCollection's
-    # features as one combined MultiPolygon on its own (confirmed against
-    # its own source, pmtiles/region.go's UnmarshalRegion). Also returns a
-    # plain aggregate [south,west,north,east] (min/max over every ring
-    # coordinate, no geometry library) used only for the Mapterhorn
-    # chunk-intersection check below — approximate is fine there, the
-    # `--region=` file is what does the real precise selection.
-    def self.region_geojson_and_bbox(codes, dir)
+    # Still used by terrain (below) to compute the aggregate bbox Mapterhorn
+    # chunk intersection needs — offline.pmtiles no longer needs this at
+    # all, since each Geofabrik country file is already clipped to that
+    # country's real border (more accurate than this 110m polygon, not
+    # less), so there's no separate "--region=" precision step for it
+    # anymore.
+    def self.region_bbox(codes)
       selected = region_features.select { |f| codes.include?(f["properties"]["iso_a2"]) }
       raise BuildError, "no matching regions for #{codes.join(", ")}" if selected.empty?
 
-      path = File.join(dir, "region.geojson")
-      File.write(path, JSON.generate(type: "FeatureCollection", features: selected))
-
       coords = selected.flat_map { |f| ring_coordinates(f["geometry"]) }
       lons = coords.map { |lng, _lat| lng }
       lats = coords.map { |_lng, lat| lat }
-      [path, [lats.min, lons.min, lats.max, lons.max]]
+      [lats.min, lons.min, lats.max, lons.max]
     end
-    private_class_method :region_geojson_and_bbox
+    private_class_method :region_bbox
 
     def self.ring_coordinates(geometry)
       case geometry["type"]
@@ -140,21 +179,21 @@ module Maptool
     # finishes — raises BuildError (the caller turns this into an error
     # response) if nothing's selected yet, or one's already running.
     #
-    # fetch_build_url exists as an injectable seam so tests can exercise the
-    # rest of this (temp path, go-pmtiles invocation, atomic rename) without
-    # a real network call — same reasoning test_helper.rb already gives for
-    # keeping /api/plugins route tests off the real Overpass API.
-    def self.build_offline(data_dir:, fetch_build_url: method(:latest_protomaps_build_url))
+    # download_extract exists as an injectable seam so tests can exercise
+    # the rest of this (scratch dir, osmium/planetiler invocation, atomic
+    # rename) without a real network call — same reasoning test_helper.rb
+    # already gives for keeping /api/plugins route tests off the real
+    # Overpass API.
+    def self.build_offline(data_dir:, download_extract: method(:download_extract))
       codes = selected_regions(data_dir)
       raise BuildError, "select at least one region first" if codes.empty?
 
       begin_run!(OFFLINE_MUTEX, OFFLINE_STATUS)
-      Thread.new { run_job(OFFLINE_MUTEX, OFFLINE_STATUS) { extract_offline(codes, data_dir, fetch_build_url) } }
+      Thread.new { run_job(OFFLINE_MUTEX, OFFLINE_STATUS) { extract_offline(codes, data_dir, download_extract) } }
     end
 
-    # fetch_manifest: same injectable-seam reasoning as fetch_build_url
-    # above, for the one Mapterhorn manifest lookup this needs instead of
-    # the Protomaps build index.
+    # fetch_manifest: same injectable-seam reasoning as download_extract
+    # above, for the one Mapterhorn manifest lookup this needs.
     def self.build_terrain(data_dir:, fetch_manifest: method(:fetch_mapterhorn_manifest))
       codes = selected_regions(data_dir)
       raise BuildError, "select at least one region first" if codes.empty?
@@ -181,56 +220,103 @@ module Maptool
 
     # --- offline.pmtiles ---
 
-    def self.extract_offline(codes, data_dir, fetch_build_url)
-      source = fetch_build_url.call
+    # One Geofabrik .osm.pbf per selected country (already clipped to that
+    # country's real border), osmium-merged into one file if more than one
+    # was selected (skipped entirely for a single country — nothing to
+    # merge), then tiled by Planetiler using its default OpenMapTiles
+    # profile straight to PMTiles — the same vector schema
+    # tiles.openfreemap.org's Liberty style already expects, so
+    # public/js/map.js's offlineStyle() can reuse ONLINE_STYLE_PATCH
+    # unchanged instead of a separate protomaps-themes-base palette.
+    def self.extract_offline(codes, data_dir, download_extract)
       scratch_dir = Dir.mktmpdir("maptool-offline")
-      region_path, = region_geojson_and_bbox(codes, scratch_dir)
-      tmp_path = File.join(data_dir, "offline.pmtiles.tmp")
+      sources = codes.map do |code|
+        slug = GEOFABRIK_SLUGS.fetch(code) { raise BuildError, "no Geofabrik source known for region #{code}" }
+        dest = File.join(scratch_dir, "#{code}.osm.pbf")
+        last_modified = download_extract.call(geofabrik_url(slug), dest)
+        { "code" => code, "slug" => slug, "last_modified" => last_modified, "path" => dest }
+      end
 
-      run_pmtiles!("extract", source, tmp_path, "--region=#{region_path}", "--maxzoom=15")
+      osm_path =
+        if sources.size == 1
+          sources.first["path"]
+        else
+          merged_path = File.join(scratch_dir, "merged.osm.pbf")
+          run_osmium!("merge", *sources.map { |s| s["path"] }, "-o", merged_path)
+          merged_path
+        end
+
+      tmp_path = File.join(data_dir, "offline.pmtiles.tmp")
+      run_planetiler!("--osm-path=#{osm_path}", "--output=#{tmp_path}")
       File.rename(tmp_path, File.join(data_dir, "offline.pmtiles"))
-      File.write(offline_meta_path(data_dir), JSON.generate(source: File.basename(URI(source).path)))
+      File.write(offline_meta_path(data_dir), JSON.generate(sources: sources.map { |s| s.slice("code", "slug", "last_modified") }))
     ensure
       FileUtils.remove_entry(scratch_dir) if scratch_dir && Dir.exist?(scratch_dir)
       File.delete(tmp_path) if tmp_path && File.exist?(tmp_path)
     end
     private_class_method :extract_offline
 
-    def self.latest_protomaps_build_url
-      response = Net::HTTP.get_response(URI(PROTOMAPS_BUILDS_INDEX))
-      raise BuildError, "could not reach #{PROTOMAPS_BUILDS_INDEX}" unless response.is_a?(Net::HTTPSuccess)
-
-      builds = JSON.parse(response.body)
-      raise BuildError, "protomaps build index was empty" if builds.empty?
-
-      "#{PROTOMAPS_BUILD_BASE}/#{builds.last.fetch("key")}"
-    rescue JSON::ParserError
-      raise BuildError, "protomaps build index was not valid JSON"
+    def self.geofabrik_url(slug)
+      "https://download.geofabrik.de/#{slug}-latest.osm.pbf"
     end
-    private_class_method :latest_protomaps_build_url
+    private_class_method :geofabrik_url
 
-    # Sidecar recording which Protomaps build (a date-stamped filename, e.g.
-    # "20260910.pmtiles") the on-disk offline.pmtiles was actually extracted
-    # from — the file itself carries no such record. nil if never built (or
-    # built before this existed).
+    # Real network implementation of the download_extract seam above —
+    # streams the extract to dest and returns its Last-Modified header
+    # (free off the same GET, no separate HEAD needed) for the sidecar
+    # meta / update-check below.
+    def self.download_extract(url, dest)
+      uri = URI(url)
+      response = Net::HTTP.start(uri.host, uri.port, use_ssl: uri.scheme == "https") { |http| http.get(uri) }
+      raise BuildError, "could not download #{url} (HTTP #{response.code})" unless response.is_a?(Net::HTTPSuccess)
+
+      File.binwrite(dest, response.body)
+      response["last-modified"]
+    end
+
+    # Sidecar recording which Geofabrik sources (country code, slug, and
+    # that request's Last-Modified) the on-disk offline.pmtiles was
+    # actually built from — the file itself carries no such record. nil if
+    # never built (or built before this existed).
     def self.offline_meta(data_dir)
       read_json(offline_meta_path(data_dir))
     end
 
-    # Compares the persisted build against the current latest without
-    # rebuilding anything — nil (not true/false) if there's nothing to
-    # compare yet (no local build) or the upstream index couldn't be
-    # reached, so the caller can tell "don't know" apart from "no".
-    def self.offline_update_available?(data_dir, fetch_build_url: method(:latest_protomaps_build_url))
+    # Compares each currently-selected country's live Geofabrik
+    # Last-Modified against what's recorded, without downloading anything
+    # — nil (not true/false) if there's nothing to compare yet (no local
+    # build, nothing selected) or a check couldn't be completed, so the
+    # caller can tell "don't know" apart from "no". Also naturally reports
+    # "yes" if the selection changed since the last build (a country now
+    # relevant that wasn't recorded, or vice versa) — same reasoning
+    # terrain_update_available? below already uses.
+    def self.offline_update_available?(data_dir, fetch_last_modified: method(:fetch_geofabrik_last_modified))
       meta = offline_meta(data_dir)
       return nil unless meta
 
-      latest = File.basename(URI(fetch_build_url.call).path)
-      latest != meta["source"]
+      codes = selected_regions(data_dir)
+      return nil if codes.empty?
+
+      current = codes.map do |code|
+        slug = GEOFABRIK_SLUGS[code]
+        return nil unless slug
+
+        { "code" => code, "last_modified" => fetch_last_modified.call(geofabrik_url(slug)) }
+      end.sort_by { |s| s["code"] }
+      recorded = (meta["sources"] || []).map { |s| s.slice("code", "last_modified") }.sort_by { |s| s["code"] }
+      current != recorded
     rescue BuildError
       nil
     end
 
+    def self.fetch_geofabrik_last_modified(url)
+      uri = URI(url)
+      response = Net::HTTP.start(uri.host, uri.port, use_ssl: uri.scheme == "https") { |http| http.head(uri) }
+      raise BuildError, "could not reach #{url}" unless response.is_a?(Net::HTTPSuccess)
+
+      response["last-modified"]
+    end
+
     def self.offline_meta_path(data_dir)
       File.join(data_dir, "offline.pmtiles.meta.json")
     end
@@ -258,8 +344,10 @@ module Maptool
       raise BuildError, "mapterhorn manifest is missing #{MAPTERHORN_PLANET_NAME}" unless planet
 
       scratch_dir = Dir.mktmpdir("maptool-terrain")
-      region_path, bbox = region_geojson_and_bbox(codes, scratch_dir)
-      south, west, north, east = bbox
+      south, west, north, east = region_bbox(codes)
+      region_path = File.join(scratch_dir, "region.geojson")
+      selected = region_features.select { |f| codes.include?(f["properties"]["iso_a2"]) }
+      File.write(region_path, JSON.generate(type: "FeatureCollection", features: selected))
 
       chunks = items.select { |item| item["name"] != MAPTERHORN_PLANET_NAME && bbox_intersects?(item, south, west, north, east) }
 
@@ -322,13 +410,10 @@ module Maptool
       planet = items.find { |item| item["name"] == MAPTERHORN_PLANET_NAME }
       return nil unless planet
 
-      Dir.mktmpdir do |dir|
-        _region_path, bbox = region_geojson_and_bbox(codes, dir)
-        south, west, north, east = bbox
-        chunks = items.select { |item| item["name"] != MAPTERHORN_PLANET_NAME && bbox_intersects?(item, south, west, north, east) }
-        current = [planet, *chunks].map { |i| { "name" => i["name"], "md5sum" => i["md5sum"] } }.sort_by { |s| s["name"] }
-        current != (meta["sources"] || []).sort_by { |s| s["name"] }
-      end
+      south, west, north, east = region_bbox(codes)
+      chunks = items.select { |item| item["name"] != MAPTERHORN_PLANET_NAME && bbox_intersects?(item, south, west, north, east) }
+      current = [planet, *chunks].map { |i| { "name" => i["name"], "md5sum" => i["md5sum"] } }.sort_by { |s| s["name"] }
+      current != (meta["sources"] || []).sort_by { |s| s["name"] }
     rescue BuildError
       nil
     end
@@ -347,12 +432,24 @@ module Maptool
     end
     private_class_method :read_json
 
-    # ENV read lazily (not a load-time constant) so tests can point this at
-    # a fake script without a require-order dance.
+    # ENV read lazily (not load-time constants) so tests can point these at
+    # fake binaries without a require-order dance.
     def self.pmtiles_bin
       ENV.fetch("PMTILES_BIN", "pmtiles")
     end
 
+    def self.osmium_bin
+      ENV.fetch("OSMIUM_BIN", "osmium")
+    end
+
+    def self.java_bin
+      ENV.fetch("JAVA_BIN", "java")
+    end
+
+    def self.planetiler_jar
+      ENV.fetch("PLANETILER_JAR", "/usr/local/lib/planetiler.jar")
+    end
+
     def self.run_pmtiles!(*args)
       _stdout, stderr, status = Open3.capture3(pmtiles_bin, *args)
       raise BuildError, "pmtiles exited with status #{status.exitstatus}: #{stderr.strip}" unless status.success?
@@ -360,5 +457,21 @@ module Maptool
       raise BuildError, "could not run '#{pmtiles_bin}' (#{e.message}) — is go-pmtiles installed and on PATH? See docs/development.adoc."
     end
     private_class_method :run_pmtiles!
+
+    def self.run_osmium!(*args)
+      _stdout, stderr, status = Open3.capture3(osmium_bin, *args)
+      raise BuildError, "osmium exited with status #{status.exitstatus}: #{stderr.strip}" unless status.success?
+    rescue Errno::ENOENT, Errno::EACCES => e
+      raise BuildError, "could not run '#{osmium_bin}' (#{e.message}) — is osmium-tool installed and on PATH? See docs/development.adoc."
+    end
+    private_class_method :run_osmium!
+
+    def self.run_planetiler!(*args)
+      _stdout, stderr, status = Open3.capture3(java_bin, "-jar", planetiler_jar, *args)
+      raise BuildError, "planetiler exited with status #{status.exitstatus}: #{stderr.strip}" unless status.success?
+    rescue Errno::ENOENT, Errno::EACCES => e
+      raise BuildError, "could not run '#{java_bin} -jar #{planetiler_jar}' (#{e.message}) — is Java and planetiler.jar installed? See docs/development.adoc."
+    end
+    private_class_method :run_planetiler!
   end
 end
diff --git a/public/js/map.js b/public/js/map.js
index 7a189d7..dce4127 100644
--- a/public/js/map.js
+++ b/public/js/map.js
@@ -28,29 +28,46 @@ const CENTER = [17.1077, 48.1486];
 const ZOOM = 13;
 const ONLINE_STYLE_URL = "https://tiles.openfreemap.org/styles/liberty";
 
-// Recolors OpenFreeMap Liberty to the same NPS-inspired palette as
-// OFFLINE_THEME below — warm cream ground, muted roads/boundaries — mapped
-// onto Liberty's OpenMapTiles layer ids instead of protomaps' theme roles
-// (the two schemas don't share layer names, so this is a separate
-// hand-built table, not a shared object). Only the layers that dominate the
-// map's overall color read are touched; labels, halos, rail, and minor
-// overlays (cemetery/hospital/school/pitch/track shading, building
-// outlines) are left at Liberty's own defaults — same "not a full
-// recolor" scope as OFFLINE_THEME. Road casings have no protomaps-role
-// equivalent to reuse (offline roads don't get a separate outline), so
-// #c9a66b there is reasoned to fit the family rather than sourced from
-// anywhere real.
+// Recolors OpenFreeMap Liberty to a warm, NPS-Park-Tiles-inspired palette —
+// cream ground, muted roads/boundaries — mapped onto Liberty's OpenMapTiles
+// layer ids. Applied identically regardless of which PMTiles data actually
+// backs the "openmaptiles" source (see offlineStyle() below): offline tiles
+// are built by Planetiler's own OpenMapTiles profile (docs/development.adoc),
+// the same schema Liberty already expects, so one patch serves both —
+// no separate offline theme/palette to keep in sync. Only the layers that
+// dominate the map's overall color read are touched; labels, halos, rail,
+// and minor overlays (cemetery/hospital/school/pitch/track shading,
+// building outlines) are left at Liberty's own defaults.
 //
-// wood/grass are deliberately left unpatched — Liberty's own green reads
-// better than this app's earlier brown/khaki recolor, and OFFLINE_THEME's
-// wood_a/scrub_a below were changed to match Liberty's green instead.
+// wood/grass are deliberately left unpatched — Liberty's own green (a
+// translucent landcover_wood/landcover_grass wash) already reads well over
+// the patched cream background.
 const ONLINE_STYLE_PATCH = {
   background: { "background-color": "#f9f6ef" },
+  // Liberty washes every built-up area in a translucent gray-tan below
+  // z12 (landuse_residential, maxzoom 12 — gone by this app's default
+  // z13) that the offline schema has no equivalent of; protomaps just
+  // leaves that ground as plain background/earth. Matched to background
+  // here rather than left alone, so a zoomed-out view doesn't read as
+  // visibly dingier online than offline.
+  landuse_residential: { "fill-color": "#f9f6ef" },
   landcover_sand: { "fill-color": "#f0e4c4" },
   water: { "fill-color": "#a3cedf" },
-  park: { "fill-color": "#b3e378" },
-  park_outline: { "line-color": "#546619" },
-  building: { "fill-color": "#ded7cc" },
+  // fill-outline-color isn't touched by a plain fill-color patch — Liberty
+  // draws it separately, defaulting to a bright green that reads as a
+  // distinct border around named conservation areas (e.g. the Malé
+  // Karpaty CHKO). Matched to the fill itself, and park_outline's own
+  // dashed line hidden below, so a reserve blends in as ordinary forest —
+  // offline has no equivalent stroke at all (see park_a/park_b below),
+  // and the point was never to call reserves out as visibly different,
+  // on either side.
+  park: { "fill-color": "#b3e378", "fill-outline-color": "#b3e378" },
+  park_outline: { "line-opacity": 0 },
+  // fill-opacity: 0.5 matches the offline theme's own "buildings" layer —
+  // without it, Liberty's dense individual building footprints (each with
+  // its own outline) paint fully opaque and read much heavier/grayer than
+  // offline's softer, half-transparent fill over the same cream ground.
+  building: { "fill-color": "#ded7cc", "fill-opacity": 0.5 },
   boundary_2: { "line-color": "#546619" },
   boundary_3: { "line-color": "#546619" },
 
@@ -58,19 +75,30 @@ const ONLINE_STYLE_PATCH = {
   // minor (residential/service/track), pedestrian — each repeated for its
   // tunnel_/bridge_ counterpart so a road doesn't change color when it
   // dips into a tunnel or crosses a bridge. Rail is left alone.
-  road_motorway: { "line-color": "#fdefbe" },
-  road_trunk_primary: { "line-color": "#fdefbe" },
-  road_secondary_tertiary: { "line-color": "#fef7dd" },
-  road_link: { "line-color": "#fef7dd" },
-  road_motorway_link: { "line-color": "#fef7dd" },
+  //
+  // line-width below is a flat number, not Liberty's own zoom-interpolated
+  // expression — picked to match the offline theme's actual rendered width
+  // at this app's default zoom (13; verified live via queryRenderedFeatures
+  // on both sides), since without it Liberty's own curve draws surface
+  // roads roughly twice as thick as offline at street level, reading as a
+  // much bolder road network online.
+  // ponytail: tuned for z13 only, not a matching curve across all zooms —
+  // will drift back apart at very different zoom levels. Upgrade path:
+  // sample offline's width at a few more zooms and replace with a matching
+  // ["interpolate", ["linear"], ["zoom"], ...] expression.
+  road_motorway: { "line-color": "#fdefbe", "line-width": 2.26 },
+  road_trunk_primary: { "line-color": "#fdefbe", "line-width": 2.26 },
+  road_secondary_tertiary: { "line-color": "#fef7dd", "line-width": 1.87 },
+  road_link: { "line-color": "#fef7dd", "line-width": 1 },
+  road_motorway_link: { "line-color": "#fef7dd", "line-width": 1 },
   road_minor: { "line-color": "#fffdf8" },
   road_service_track: { "line-color": "#fffdf8" },
   road_path_pedestrian: { "line-color": "#e9e2d8" },
-  road_motorway_casing: { "line-color": "#c9a66b" },
-  road_trunk_primary_casing: { "line-color": "#c9a66b" },
-  road_secondary_tertiary_casing: { "line-color": "#c9a66b" },
-  road_link_casing: { "line-color": "#c9a66b" },
-  road_motorway_link_casing: { "line-color": "#c9a66b" },
+  road_motorway_casing: { "line-color": "#c9a66b", "line-width": 1.48 },
+  road_trunk_primary_casing: { "line-color": "#c9a66b", "line-width": 1.48 },
+  road_secondary_tertiary_casing: { "line-color": "#c9a66b", "line-width": 1 },
+  road_link_casing: { "line-color": "#c9a66b", "line-width": 1.5 },
+  road_motorway_link_casing: { "line-color": "#c9a66b", "line-width": 1.5 },
   road_minor_casing: { "line-color": "#c9a66b" },
   road_service_track_casing: { "line-color": "#c9a66b" },
 
@@ -161,95 +189,45 @@ async function loadOnlineStyle() {
 
 const ONLINE_STYLE = await loadOnlineStyle();
 
+// A vendored copy of the same Liberty style ONLINE_STYLE fetches live
+// (public/vendor/liberty-style/liberty.json — a point-in-time snapshot, not
+// auto-updated) that offlineStyle() below patches+repoints the exact same
+// way. Offline mode can't depend on ONLINE_STYLE_URL actually being
+// reachable — that fetch failing/timing out is the normal case in the
+// field, not an edge case — so this is a local, same-origin fetch instead
+// (fast and always available, since it's served by this app itself).
+const OFFLINE_STYLE_TEMPLATE = await fetch("/vendor/liberty-style/liberty.json").then((response) => response.json());
+
 const protocol = new pmtiles.Protocol();
 addProtocol("pmtiles", protocol.tile);
 
-// Nudged from protomaps-themes-base's stock "light" theme towards the
-// National Park Service's own "Park Tiles" cartography — a warm,
-// Harpers-Ferry-Center-derived look. Not their actual map: a handful of
-// values below (marked) are the genuine paint colors pulled from a public
-// Park Tiles style JSON
-// (nps.gov/lib/npmap.js/style/ck72fwp2642dv07o7tbqinvz4.json, the "Imagery"
-// variant — the only one of their four styles served from a plain,
-// unauthenticated URL; "Standard"/"Slate"/"Light" resolve through Mapbox
-// Studio's private API with an access token, which isn't something to
-// piggyback on even though it's technically visible in their own JS bundle).
-// The rest are reasoned to match that same family (warm cream ground, olive
-// greens, muted blue) rather than sourced. Not a full recolor: labels,
-// casings, and roles with no clean real-color anchor are left at theme
-// defaults.
+// Builds the offline style from OFFLINE_STYLE_TEMPLATE — the identical
+// Liberty JSON + ONLINE_STYLE_PATCH recolor as the online map, just
+// repointed at a local PMTiles source instead of tiles.openfreemap.org.
+// This works because data/offline.pmtiles is now built by Planetiler's own
+// OpenMapTiles profile (see docs/development.adoc), the same vector schema
+// Liberty expects — before that, offline tiles used a different schema
+// (protomaps' own basemaps) needing a completely separate hand-tuned
+// theme (protomaps-themes-base + OFFLINE_THEME) that could never be made
+// to match ONLINE_STYLE_PATCH's look exactly, no matter how much either
+// side got tuned.
 //
-// Recreating the color choices is legitimate — that's not the kind of thing
-// a data license restricts (see docs/architecture.adoc's "Offline maps"
-// section) — what stays off-limits is their actual tile *service*: its
-// OSM/terrain layers are licensed through Mapbox Atlas, a commercial,
-// non-sublicensable data service scoped to NPS.
-const OFFLINE_THEME = {
-  ...protomaps_themes_base.namedTheme("light"),
-  background: "#f9f6ef", // real: Park Tiles' own background, hsl(40, 37%, 97%)
-  earth: "#f9f6ef",
-  water: "#a3cedf",
-  // Matches OpenFreeMap Liberty's own wood/grass green (its landcover_wood
-  // hsla(98,61%,72%,0.7) and landcover_grass rgba(176,213,154,1) at 0.3
-  // opacity, blended over the cream background) — the online map's actual
-  // look whenever ONLINE_STYLE_PATCH's brown/khaki recolor fails to apply
-  // (see loadOnlineStyle's fetch fallback) turned out to be the look this
-  // app's users actually want, so offline was changed to match it instead
-  // of chasing the patch's own reliability.
-  wood_a: "#c3e8ab",
-  wood_b: "#a8d888",
-  scrub_a: "#dcecc9",
-  scrub_b: "#cfe3b8",
-  // Close to wood_b, not the more saturated Park Tiles green: protomaps'
-  // theme routes "forest"/"nature_reserve"/"protected_area" (e.g. the Malé
-  // Karpaty CHKO boundary) through this same park_a/park_b pair as actual
-  // named parks — Liberty's online style doesn't make that reserve-boundary
-  // distinction at all, so a visibly different green here reads as an
-  // offline-only blotch rather than a deliberate distinction.
-  park_a: "#c3e8ab",
-  park_b: "#a8d888",
-  sand: "#f0e4c4",
-  beach: "#f0e4c4",
-  buildings: "#ded7cc",
-  pedestrian: "#e9e2d8",
-  highway: "#fdefbe", // real: Park Tiles' primary/highway road color
-  major: "#fef7dd", // real: Park Tiles' secondary road color
-  // "minor" (singular) is never actually read by protomaps' own paint
-  // expressions — only the zoom-interpolated minor_a/minor_b pair is, so a
-  // plain "minor" key here was dead: ordinary streets were silently
-  // falling back to the base theme's default pale yellow instead of this
-  // app's cream.
-  minor_a: "#fffdf8",
-  minor_b: "#fffdf8",
-  link: "#fef7dd",
-  // Distinct brown, not cream: protomaps' "other"/"path" kind is what a
-  // camper actually needs called out — unpaved tracks and footpaths,
-  // separate from paved minor_road/service (minor_service, left at the
-  // base theme's default since it's real driveways/parking aisles, not
-  // unpaved). Already rendered dashed by the theme itself; this just picks
-  // a real "dirt" tone instead of unstyled white.
-  other: "#c9a66b",
-  boundaries: "#546619", // real: Park Tiles' park-boundary line color
-};
-
+// glyphs/sprite point at vendored local copies (public/vendor/fonts,
+// public/vendor/liberty-sprite) rather than tiles.openfreemap.org's —
+// glyphs are Latin-only (see docs/architecture.adoc: labels in other
+// scripts won't render offline), sprite is a one-time snapshot like
+// OFFLINE_STYLE_TEMPLATE itself. ne2_shaded (Liberty's low-zoom shaded-
+// relief backdrop, z0-6 only) is left pointing at its remote URL
+// unchanged — offline usage is regional, not whole-earth zoomed out, so
+// this only ever silently fails to load at a zoom level offline users
+// aren't in, the same graceful-degradation story as this app's other
+// online-only extras (Wikipedia, live radar).
 function offlineStyle() {
-  const pmtilesUrl = `${window.location.origin}/tiles/offline.pmtiles`;
-
-  return {
-    version: 8,
-    glyphs: `${window.location.origin}/vendor/fonts/{fontstack}/{range}.pbf`,
-    sources: {
-      offline: {
-        type: "vector",
-        url: `pmtiles://${pmtilesUrl}`,
-        attribution: "&copy; OpenStreetMap contributors",
-      },
-    },
-    // lang: "en" pulls in labels_layers (see docs/architecture.adoc) — only
-    // the Latin-script glyph ranges are vendored, so labels using other
-    // scripts won't render offline.
-    layers: protomaps_themes_base.layers("offline", OFFLINE_THEME, { lang: "en" }),
-  };
+  const style = patchOnlineStyle(structuredClone(OFFLINE_STYLE_TEMPLATE));
+  style.sources.openmaptiles.url = `pmtiles://${window.location.origin}/tiles/offline.pmtiles`;
+  style.glyphs = `${window.location.origin}/vendor/fonts/{fontstack}/{range}.pbf`;
+  style.sprite = `${window.location.origin}/vendor/liberty-sprite/ofm`;
+  return style;
 }
 
 // A sidebar icon that opens a full-height side panel (like the GPX one)
diff --git a/public/js/offline_data.js b/public/js/offline_data.js
index 91c5e6d..5cee5da 100644
--- a/public/js/offline_data.js
+++ b/public/js/offline_data.js
@@ -37,13 +37,13 @@ function flagIconUrl(code) {
   return `/vendor/flag-icons/1x1/${code.toLowerCase()}.svg`;
 }
 
-// meta.source is a Protomaps build filename like "20260910.pmtiles" — the
-// leading 8 digits are its build date.
+// meta.sources is one entry per country the current build covers (see
+// lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb) — listing the codes is more useful here
+// than a count, since they're exactly what RegionPicker's checklist above
+// already shows.
 function formatOfflineMeta(meta) {
   if (!meta) return "";
-  const match = meta.source.match(/^(\d{4})(\d{2})(\d{2})/);
-  const date = match ? `${match[1]}-${match[2]}-${match[3]}` : meta.source;
-  return ` · Protomaps ${date}`;
+  return ` · ${meta.sources.map((s) => s.code).join(", ")}`;
 }
 
 function formatTerrainMeta(meta) {
@@ -172,9 +172,9 @@ class DataFileRow {
   }
 
   // Separate from _refreshStatus's own fetch (and only called once, right
-  // after — not polled): this one reaches an external service (Protomaps'
-  // build index or Mapterhorn's manifest, see
-  // lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb), so it's kept off the hot status path
+  // after — not polled): this one reaches an external service (Geofabrik
+  // or Mapterhorn's manifest, see lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb), so it's
+  // kept off the hot status path
   // and just silently skipped if it fails, same as everywhere else this
   // app degrades gracefully when an optional network check doesn't answer.
   async _checkUpdate() {
diff --git a/public/theme_preview.html b/public/theme_preview.html
deleted file mode 100644
index c5eac67..0000000
--- a/public/theme_preview.html
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,111 +0,0 @@
-<!DOCTYPE html>
-<html lang="en">
-<head>
-<meta charset="utf-8">
-<title>Offline theme preview</title>
-<link rel="stylesheet" href="/vendor/maplibre-gl/maplibre-gl.css">
-<style>
-  body { margin: 0; font-family: sans-serif; background: #222; }
-  .grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); gap: 4px; }
-  .cell { position: relative; height: 90vh; }
-  .cell .map, .cell iframe { position: absolute; inset: 0; width: 100%; height: 100%; border: 0; }
-  .cell .label {
-    position: absolute; top: 4px; left: 4px; z-index: 1;
-    background: rgba(0,0,0,.6); color: #fff; padding: 2px 8px;
-    font-size: 13px; border-radius: 3px;
-  }
-</style>
-</head>
-<body>
-<div class="grid">
-  <div class="cell">
-    <div class="label">light (bare base theme)</div>
-    <div class="map" id="light-map"></div>
-  </div>
-  <div class="cell">
-    <div class="label">offline (current app)</div>
-    <iframe id="offline-frame" src="/"></iframe>
-  </div>
-  <div class="cell">
-    <div class="label">online (current app)</div>
-    <iframe id="online-frame" src="/"></iframe>
-  </div>
-</div>
-<script src="/vendor/pmtiles/pmtiles.js"></script>
-<script src="/vendor/protomaps-themes-base/protomaps-themes-base.js"></script>
-<script type="module">
-  import { Map as MaplibreMap, addProtocol } from "/vendor/maplibre-gl/maplibre-gl.mjs";
-
-  const protocol = new pmtiles.Protocol();
-  addProtocol("pmtiles", protocol.tile);
-
-  const CENTER = [17.1077, 48.1486];
-  const ZOOM = 13;
-  const pmtilesUrl = `${window.location.origin}/tiles/offline.pmtiles`;
-
-  const lightMap = new MaplibreMap({
-    container: "light-map",
-    center: CENTER,
-    zoom: ZOOM,
-    style: {
-      version: 8,
-      glyphs: `${window.location.origin}/vendor/fonts/{fontstack}/{range}.pbf`,
-      sources: {
-        offline: { type: "vector", url: `pmtiles://${pmtilesUrl}` },
-      },
-      layers: protomaps_themes_base.layers("offline", protomaps_themes_base.namedTheme("light"), { lang: "en" }),
-    },
-  });
-
-  // "offline" frame needs nothing: the app already defaults to its offline
-  // style whenever /api/offline-tiles reports data present (see map.js).
-  // "online" frame: click its own real Online button, same button a user
-  // would click — reuses the app's actual ONLINE_STYLE (patched Liberty)
-  // instead of re-fetching/re-patching a second copy here.
-  const offlineFrame = document.getElementById("offline-frame");
-  const onlineFrame = document.getElementById("online-frame");
-  const clickOnline = () => {
-    const button = onlineFrame.contentDocument?.querySelector('.basemap-panel__option[data-style="online"]');
-    if (button) button.click();
-  };
-  onlineFrame.addEventListener("load", () => {
-    clickOnline();
-    setTimeout(clickOnline, 1000); // retry once in case map.js was still mid-init
-  });
-
-  // Keep all three views looking at the same spot. The two iframes are the
-  // real app (separate documents, own module scope — nothing to reach into
-  // directly), but map.js already syncs its map to the URL hash (`hash:
-  // "map"`, format #map=zoom/lat/lon) for shareable links. Reusing that: poll
-  // each source's position, and whichever moved gets pushed to the other
-  // two — for a frame, by writing its location.hash, which fires its own
-  // hashchange and lets its Hash control jumpTo for us.
-  const HASH_RE = /map=([\d.]+)\/(-?[\d.]+)\/(-?[\d.]+)/;
-  function frameHash(frame) {
-    const match = HASH_RE.exec(frame.contentWindow?.location.hash ?? "");
-    return match ? { zoom: +match[1], lat: +match[2], lon: +match[3] } : null;
-  }
-  function lightPos() {
-    const c = lightMap.getCenter();
-    return { zoom: lightMap.getZoom(), lat: c.lat, lon: c.lng };
-  }
-  function samePos(a, b) {
-    return Math.abs(a.zoom - b.zoom) < 0.005 && Math.abs(a.lat - b.lat) < 1e-4 && Math.abs(a.lon - b.lon) < 1e-4;
-  }
-  let current = { zoom: ZOOM, lat: CENTER[1], lon: CENTER[0] };
-  setInterval(() => {
-    const sources = { light: lightPos(), offline: frameHash(offlineFrame), online: frameHash(onlineFrame) };
-    const leader = Object.keys(sources).find((name) => sources[name] && !samePos(sources[name], current));
-    if (!leader) return;
-    current = sources[leader];
-    if (leader !== "light") lightMap.jumpTo({ center: [current.lon, current.lat], zoom: current.zoom });
-    if (leader !== "offline" && offlineFrame.contentWindow) {
-      offlineFrame.contentWindow.location.hash = `map=${current.zoom}/${current.lat}/${current.lon}`;
-    }
-    if (leader !== "online" && onlineFrame.contentWindow) {
-      onlineFrame.contentWindow.location.hash = `map=${current.zoom}/${current.lat}/${current.lon}`;
-    }
-  }, 150);
-</script>
-</body>
-</html>
diff --git a/public/vendor/liberty-sprite/ofm.json b/public/vendor/liberty-sprite/ofm.json
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..99fd5bc
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/vendor/liberty-sprite/ofm.json
@@ -0,0 +1,1850 @@
+{
+  "aerialway": {
+    "height": 19,
+    "pixelRatio": 1,
+    "width": 19,
+    "x": 147,
+    "y": 190
+  },
+  "aerialway_11": {
+    "height": 15,
+    "pixelRatio": 1,
+    "width": 15,
+    "x": 252,
+    "y": 169
+  },
+  "airfield": {
+    "height": 19,
+    "pixelRatio": 1,
+    "width": 19,
+    "x": 166,
+    "y": 190
+  },
+  "airfield_11": {
+    "height": 15,
+    "pixelRatio": 1,
+    "width": 15,
+    "x": 267,
+    "y": 169
+  },
+  "airport": {
+    "height": 19,
+    "pixelRatio": 1,
+    "width": 19,
+    "x": 185,
+    "y": 190
+  },
+  "airport_11": {
+    "height": 17,
+    "pixelRatio": 1,
+    "width": 17,
+    "x": 438,
+    "y": 211
+  },
+  "alcohol_shop": {
+    "height": 21,
+    "pixelRatio": 1,
+    "width": 21,
+    "x": 64,
+    "y": 0
+  },
+  "alcohol_shop_11": {
+    "height": 17,
+    "pixelRatio": 1,
+    "width": 17,
+    "x": 455,
+    "y": 211
+  },
+  "american_football": {
+    "height": 21,
+    "pixelRatio": 1,
+    "width": 21,
+    "x": 85,
+    "y": 0
+  },
+  "american_football_11": {
+    "height": 17,
+    "pixelRatio": 1,
+    "width": 17,
+    "x": 472,
+    "y": 211
+  },
+  "amusement_park": {
+    "height": 21,
+    "pixelRatio": 1,
+    "width": 21,
+    "x": 106,
+    "y": 0
+  },
+  "amusement_park_11": {
+    "height": 17,
+    "pixelRatio": 1,
+    "width": 17,
+    "x": 489,
+    "y": 211
+  },
+  "aquarium": {
+    "height": 21,
+    "pixelRatio": 1,
+    "width": 21,
+    "x": 0,
+    "y": 64
+  },
+  "aquarium_11": {
+    "height": 17,
+    "pixelRatio": 1,
+    "width": 17,
+    "x": 246,
+    "y": 230
+  },
+  "arrow": {
+    "height": 7,
+    "pixelRatio": 1,
+    "width": 10,
+    "x": 72,
+    "y": 249
+  },
+  "art_gallery": {
+    "height": 21,
+    "pixelRatio": 1,
+    "width": 21,
+    "x": 21,
+    "y": 64
+  },
+  "art_gallery_11": {
+    "height": 17,
+    "pixelRatio": 1,
+    "width": 17,
+    "x": 263,
+    "y": 230
+  },
+  "attraction": {
+    "height": 21,
+    "pixelRatio": 1,
+    "width": 21,
+    "x": 42,
+    "y": 64
+  },
+  "attraction_11": {
+    "height": 17,
+    "pixelRatio": 1,
+    "width": 17,
+    "x": 280,
+    "y": 230
+  },
+  "bakery": {
+    "height": 21,
+    "pixelRatio": 1,
+    "width": 21,
+    "x": 63,
+    "y": 64
+  },
+  "bakery_11": {
+    "height": 17,
+    "pixelRatio": 1,
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diff --git a/public/vendor/liberty-sprite/ofm.png b/public/vendor/liberty-sprite/ofm.png
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diff --git a/public/vendor/liberty-sprite/ofm@2x.json b/public/vendor/liberty-sprite/ofm@2x.json
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..15b71ed
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el_halo:"#141414",state_label:"#3d3d3d",state_label_halo:"#141414",country_label:"#707070",address_label:"#525252",address_label_halo:"#141414"},R={light:h,dark:u,white:y,grayscale:w,black:k,contrast:N},g=R;function H(a){switch(a){case"light":return h;case"dark":return u;case"white":return y;case"grayscale":return w;case"black":return k}throw new Error("Theme not found")}l(H,"namedTheme");function B(a,e,i){let n=[];return i!=null&&i.labelsOnly||(n=_(a,e)),i!=null&&i.lang&&(n=n.concat(d(a,e,i.lang))),n}l(B,"layers");function S(a,e,i,n){let r=g[e];return _(a,r).concat(d(a,r,i,n))}l(S,"default");function E(a,e){let i=g[e];return _(a,i)}l(E,"noLabels");function I(a,e,i,n){let r=g[e];return d(a,r,i,n)}l(I,"labels");function V(a,e,i,n){return _(a,e).concat(d(a,e,i,n))}l(V,"layersWithCustomTheme");function F(a,e,i,n,r){let p=b(b({},g[e]),i);return _(a,p).concat(d(a,p,n,r))}l(F,"layersWithPartialCustomTheme");function G(a,e){return _(a,e)}l(G,"noLabelsWithCustomTheme");function K(a,e,i,n){return d(a,e,i,n)}l(K,"labelsWithCustomTheme");return A(W);})();
-//# sourceMappingURL=protomaps-themes-base.js.map
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/test/test_app.rb b/test/test_app.rb
index 41d0a31..972e242 100644
--- a/test/test_app.rb
+++ b/test/test_app.rb
@@ -402,13 +402,13 @@ class AppTest < Minitest::Test
     assert_equal 409, response.status
   end
 
-  # fetch_build_url blocks on a Queue, called directly (not through the
+  # download_extract blocks on a Queue, called directly (not through the
   # route, which has no way to inject a fake) so the build is
   # deterministically still "running" when the route call below happens.
   def test_offline_tiles_build_is_409_when_one_is_already_running
     Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.set_selected_regions(Maptool::App::DATA_DIR, ["SK"])
     gate = Queue.new
-    thread = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: Maptool::App::DATA_DIR, fetch_build_url: -> { gate.pop })
+    thread = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: Maptool::App::DATA_DIR, download_extract: ->(_url, _dest) { gate.pop })
 
     response = request.post("/api/offline-tiles/build", **logged_in_env)
     assert_equal 409, response.status
diff --git a/test/test_pmtiles_builder.rb b/test/test_pmtiles_builder.rb
index 8ed619d..7c45401 100644
--- a/test/test_pmtiles_builder.rb
+++ b/test/test_pmtiles_builder.rb
@@ -3,14 +3,15 @@ require "maptool/pmtiles_builder"
 require "tmpdir"
 require "fileutils"
 
-# Network calls (the protomaps build index, the mapterhorn manifest) are
+# Network calls (Geofabrik downloads/HEADs, the mapterhorn manifest) are
 # never exercised here — same "keep this offline/deterministic" reasoning
 # test_helper.rb already gives for /api/plugins staying off the real
-# Overpass API — build_offline/build_terrain take fetch_build_url/
-# fetch_manifest precisely so tests can swap those out. A fake `pmtiles`
-# CLI (PMTILES_BIN) stands in for the real go-pmtiles binary, logging each
-# invocation's subcommand + first arg to PMTILES_LOG so tests can assert on
-# what actually got called (e.g. "was merge invoked, and with what").
+# Overpass API — build_offline/build_terrain take download_extract/
+# fetch_manifest precisely so tests can swap those out. Fake `pmtiles`,
+# `osmium`, and `java` binaries (PMTILES_BIN/OSMIUM_BIN/JAVA_BIN) stand in
+# for the real tools, logging each invocation's subcommand/first arg to
+# PMTILES_LOG so tests can assert on what actually got called (e.g. "was
+# merge invoked, and with what").
 #
 # Country codes below are real ones from the vendored
 # lib/maptool/data/europe_countries.geojson (Slovakia, Iceland, Spain) —
@@ -46,8 +47,45 @@ class PmtilesBuilderTest < Minitest::Test
     File.write(@pmtiles_fail, "#!/bin/sh\necho 'boom' >&2\nexit 1\n")
     File.chmod(0o755, @pmtiles_fail)
 
+    # osmium merge PBF1 PBF2 ... -o OUTPUT — output is always "-o"'s next
+    # arg, unlike pmtiles' varying-position output above.
+    @osmium_ok = File.join(@bin_dir, "osmium-ok")
+    File.write(@osmium_ok, <<~SH)
+      #!/bin/sh
+      echo "osmium $1" >> "$PMTILES_LOG"
+      prev=""
+      for arg; do
+        if [ "$prev" = "-o" ]; then echo fake > "$arg"; fi
+        prev="$arg"
+      done
+    SH
+    File.chmod(0o755, @osmium_ok)
+
+    # Stands in for `java -jar planetiler.jar --osm-path=... --output=OUT`
+    # — PLANETILER_JAR itself is irrelevant here (this fake ignores -jar's
+    # argument entirely), only JAVA_BIN needs pointing at it.
+    @java_ok = File.join(@bin_dir, "java-ok")
+    File.write(@java_ok, <<~SH)
+      #!/bin/sh
+      echo "planetiler ${3%%=*}" >> "$PMTILES_LOG"
+      for arg; do
+        case "$arg" in
+          --output=*) echo fake > "${arg#--output=}" ;;
+        esac
+      done
+    SH
+    File.chmod(0o755, @java_ok)
+
+    @java_fail = File.join(@bin_dir, "java-fail")
+    File.write(@java_fail, "#!/bin/sh\necho 'boom' >&2\nexit 1\n")
+    File.chmod(0o755, @java_fail)
+
     @original_pmtiles_bin = ENV["PMTILES_BIN"]
+    @original_osmium_bin = ENV["OSMIUM_BIN"]
+    @original_java_bin = ENV["JAVA_BIN"]
     ENV["PMTILES_LOG"] = @log
+    ENV["OSMIUM_BIN"] = @osmium_ok
+    ENV["JAVA_BIN"] = @java_ok
     Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.reset!
   end
 
@@ -55,10 +93,22 @@ class PmtilesBuilderTest < Minitest::Test
     FileUtils.remove_entry(@data_dir)
     FileUtils.remove_entry(@bin_dir)
     ENV["PMTILES_BIN"] = @original_pmtiles_bin
+    ENV["OSMIUM_BIN"] = @original_osmium_bin
+    ENV["JAVA_BIN"] = @original_java_bin
     ENV.delete("PMTILES_LOG")
     Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.reset!
   end
 
+  # download_extract stub: writes a marker file (same "fake" content the
+  # pmtiles/osmium/java fixtures use) instead of hitting Geofabrik, and
+  # returns a fixed Last-Modified so sidecar-meta assertions are stable.
+  def fake_download(last_modified: "Wed, 10 Sep 2026 08:00:01 GMT")
+    ->(_url, dest) {
+      File.write(dest, "fake")
+      last_modified
+    }
+  end
+
   def log_lines
     File.exist?(@log) ? File.readlines(@log, chomp: true) : []
   end
@@ -107,21 +157,36 @@ class PmtilesBuilderTest < Minitest::Test
 
   def test_build_offline_raises_with_no_selection
     assert_raises(Maptool::PmtilesBuilder::BuildError) do
-      Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, fetch_build_url: -> { "unused" })
+      Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: fake_download)
     end
   end
 
   def test_build_offline_writes_the_file_and_reports_done
     select_regions("SK")
-    ENV["PMTILES_BIN"] = @pmtiles_ok
-    thread = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, fetch_build_url: -> { "https://example.com/fake.pmtiles" })
+    thread = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: fake_download)
     thread.join
 
     assert_path_exists File.join(@data_dir, "offline.pmtiles")
     refute_path_exists File.join(@data_dir, "offline.pmtiles.tmp")
     assert_equal "done", Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_status[:state]
-    assert_equal ["extract https://example.com/fake.pmtiles"], log_lines
-    assert_equal({ "source" => "fake.pmtiles" }, Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_meta(@data_dir))
+    assert_equal ["planetiler --osm-path"], log_lines
+    assert_equal(
+      { "sources" => [{ "code" => "SK", "slug" => "europe/slovakia", "last_modified" => "Wed, 10 Sep 2026 08:00:01 GMT" }] },
+      Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_meta(@data_dir),
+    )
+  end
+
+  # Two countries selected — osmium merge should run before planetiler,
+  # each downloaded source recorded in the sidecar meta.
+  def test_build_offline_merges_multiple_selected_countries
+    select_regions("SK", "AT")
+    thread = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: fake_download)
+    thread.join
+
+    assert_equal "done", Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_status[:state]
+    assert_equal ["osmium merge", "planetiler --osm-path"], log_lines
+    codes = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_meta(@data_dir)["sources"].map { |s| s["code"] }
+    assert_equal %w[SK AT], codes
   end
 
   def test_offline_meta_is_nil_before_any_build
@@ -129,38 +194,45 @@ class PmtilesBuilderTest < Minitest::Test
   end
 
   def test_offline_update_available_is_nil_before_any_build
-    assert_nil Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_update_available?(@data_dir, fetch_build_url: -> { "https://example.com/fake.pmtiles" })
+    assert_nil Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_update_available?(@data_dir, fetch_last_modified: ->(_url) { "unused" })
   end
 
   def test_offline_update_available_is_false_when_unchanged
     select_regions("SK")
-    ENV["PMTILES_BIN"] = @pmtiles_ok
-    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, fetch_build_url: -> { "https://example.com/fake.pmtiles" }).join
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: fake_download).join
 
-    refute Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_update_available?(@data_dir, fetch_build_url: -> { "https://example.com/fake.pmtiles" })
+    refute Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_update_available?(@data_dir, fetch_last_modified: ->(_url) { "Wed, 10 Sep 2026 08:00:01 GMT" })
   end
 
-  def test_offline_update_available_is_true_when_a_newer_build_exists
+  def test_offline_update_available_is_true_when_a_newer_extract_exists
     select_regions("SK")
-    ENV["PMTILES_BIN"] = @pmtiles_ok
-    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, fetch_build_url: -> { "https://example.com/old.pmtiles" }).join
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: fake_download).join
 
-    assert Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_update_available?(@data_dir, fetch_build_url: -> { "https://example.com/new.pmtiles" })
+    assert Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_update_available?(@data_dir, fetch_last_modified: ->(_url) { "Thu, 11 Sep 2026 08:00:01 GMT" })
   end
 
-  def test_offline_update_available_is_nil_when_the_index_is_unreachable
+  # Same recorded source, but the selection has since grown — recorded
+  # sources no longer match what the current selection would need.
+  def test_offline_update_available_is_true_when_the_selection_grew
     select_regions("SK")
-    ENV["PMTILES_BIN"] = @pmtiles_ok
-    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, fetch_build_url: -> { "https://example.com/fake.pmtiles" }).join
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: fake_download).join
 
-    fetch_build_url = -> { raise Maptool::PmtilesBuilder::BuildError, "could not reach index" }
-    assert_nil Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_update_available?(@data_dir, fetch_build_url: fetch_build_url)
+    select_regions("SK", "AT")
+    assert Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_update_available?(@data_dir, fetch_last_modified: ->(_url) { "Wed, 10 Sep 2026 08:00:01 GMT" })
+  end
+
+  def test_offline_update_available_is_nil_when_geofabrik_is_unreachable
+    select_regions("SK")
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: fake_download).join
+
+    fetch_last_modified = ->(_url) { raise Maptool::PmtilesBuilder::BuildError, "could not reach geofabrik" }
+    assert_nil Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_update_available?(@data_dir, fetch_last_modified: fetch_last_modified)
   end
 
   def test_build_offline_reports_an_error_status_on_non_zero_exit
     select_regions("SK")
-    ENV["PMTILES_BIN"] = @pmtiles_fail
-    thread = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, fetch_build_url: -> { "https://example.com/fake.pmtiles" })
+    ENV["JAVA_BIN"] = @java_fail
+    thread = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: fake_download)
     thread.join
 
     refute_path_exists File.join(@data_dir, "offline.pmtiles")
@@ -169,31 +241,30 @@ class PmtilesBuilderTest < Minitest::Test
     assert_match(/exited with status/, status[:message])
   end
 
-  def test_build_offline_reports_a_clear_error_when_the_binary_is_missing
+  def test_build_offline_reports_a_clear_error_when_planetiler_is_missing
     select_regions("SK")
-    ENV["PMTILES_BIN"] = File.join(@bin_dir, "does-not-exist")
-    thread = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, fetch_build_url: -> { "https://example.com/fake.pmtiles" })
+    ENV["JAVA_BIN"] = File.join(@bin_dir, "does-not-exist")
+    thread = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: fake_download)
     thread.join
 
     status = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_status
     assert_equal "error", status[:state]
-    assert_match(/go-pmtiles installed/, status[:message])
+    assert_match(/Java and planetiler\.jar installed/, status[:message])
   end
 
-  # fetch_build_url blocks on a Queue so the build is deterministically
+  # download_extract blocks on a Queue so the build is deterministically
   # still "running" when the second call happens, rather than racing a real
   # one to see which state wins.
   def test_build_offline_raises_when_one_is_already_running
     select_regions("SK")
-    ENV["PMTILES_BIN"] = @pmtiles_ok
     gate = Queue.new
-    thread = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, fetch_build_url: -> { gate.pop })
+    thread = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: ->(_url, _dest) { gate.pop })
 
     assert_raises(Maptool::PmtilesBuilder::BuildError) do
-      Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, fetch_build_url: -> { "unused" })
+      Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: fake_download)
     end
   ensure
-    gate.push("https://example.com/fake.pmtiles")
+    gate.push("Wed, 10 Sep 2026 08:00:01 GMT")
     thread&.join
   end
 
diff --git a/views/layout.erb b/views/layout.erb
index 8a9304e..76e4089 100644
--- a/views/layout.erb
+++ b/views/layout.erb
@@ -20,7 +20,6 @@
     }
   </script>
   <script src="/vendor/pmtiles/pmtiles.js"></script>
-  <script src="/vendor/protomaps-themes-base/protomaps-themes-base.js"></script>
   <script src="/vendor/maplibre-contour/maplibre-contour.min.js"></script>
   <%# Vendored libs above don't change between deploys, so they're left
       unversioned; app.js's own modules do, and map.js statically imports