refactor: enhance Overpass API handling with multiple endpoints and improved error reporting

The Camper POIs plugin died with "plugin exited with status 1": Net::HTTP's
bare "Ruby" User-Agent now gets a 406 Not Acceptable from overpass-api.de,
any identifying one goes through.

.gitea/workflows/ci.yml

@@ -6,7 +6,14 @@ on:
 
 jobs:
   check:
-    runs-on: ubuntu-latest
+    # brick-build's job container now points at Gitea's own official
+    # runner image (docker.gitea.com/runner-images:ubuntu-latest, has
+    # Node out of the box) — the earlier opensuse/leap:16.0 image that
+    # failed here on 2026-09-12 (no Node, every step below is a JS-based
+    # Action) got repointed. Pinned to brick specifically again, rather
+    # than the shared ubuntu-latest label "Gitea Runner on Cube" also
+    # answers to.
+    runs-on: brick-build
     steps:
       - uses: actions/checkout@v4
 
@@ -34,13 +41,13 @@ jobs:
         run: find public/js -name "*.js" -print0 | xargs -0 -n1 node --check
 
   # Handled by a separate, native (non-Docker) runner registered with the
-  # single "cube-host" label (see docs/deployment.adoc) — it runs directly
+  # single "brick-host" label (see docs/deployment.adoc) — it runs directly
   # on the server, so it has podman/git/etc. from the host, no socket/bind
   # mount tricks needed. The Docker-based runner keeps handling `check`.
   deploy:
     needs: check
     if: github.event_name == 'push' && github.ref == 'refs/heads/main'
-    runs-on: cube-host
+    runs-on: brick-host
     steps:
       # Not actions/checkout@v4: keeping this plain-git checkout from when
       # the job ran in a Node-less container — no reason to add a Node
@@ -114,14 +121,14 @@ jobs:
       # layers (apt-get/bundle install) as cache — unlike explicitly
       # removing the image first, which would delete that cache along with
       # it. sudo is needed since the unit is root's, not gitea-runner's own
-      # (gitea-runner has passwordless sudo for this on cube-host).
+      # (gitea-runner has passwordless sudo for this on brick-host).
       - name: Deploy
         run: sudo systemctl restart podman-compose@maptool.service
 
       # systemctl restart above only confirms the process forked
       # (Type=simple, no readiness protocol) — not that `podman compose up
       # --build` actually finished and Puma is answering. Polls the health
-      # endpoint (cube-host itself, same machine the container's port is
+      # endpoint (brick-host itself, same machine the container's port is
       # published on) instead of trusting that — checking for this
       # deploy's own revision, not just any 200, so a stuck old container
       # that never got torn down can't pass as a successful deploy of the

.gitea/workflows/renovate.yml

@@ -8,17 +8,25 @@ on:
 
 jobs:
   renovate:
-    # The native deploy runner (see docs/deployment.adoc) already has
+    # Same reasoning as check's runs-on in ci.yml: brick-build's job
-    # Docker access — Renovate itself is a one-shot batch job, not a
+    # container now has Node (repointed at Gitea's own official runner
-    # long-running service, so `docker run`, not docker-compose.
+    # image), which setup-node/npm below need.
-    runs-on: deploy
+    runs-on: brick-build
     steps:
+      - name: Setup Node
+        uses: actions/setup-node@v4
+        with:
+          node-version: "22"
+
+      - name: Install Renovate
+        run: npm install -g renovate
+
       - name: Run Renovate
-        run: |
+        run: renovate
-          docker run --rm \
+        env:
-            -e RENOVATE_PLATFORM=gitea \
+          RENOVATE_PLATFORM: gitea
-            -e RENOVATE_ENDPOINT="${{ gitea.server_url }}/api/v1/" \
+          RENOVATE_ENDPOINT: "${{ gitea.server_url }}/api/v1/"
-            -e RENOVATE_TOKEN="${{ secrets.RENOVATE_TOKEN }}" \
+          RENOVATE_TOKEN: ${{ secrets.RENOVATE_TOKEN }}
-            -e RENOVATE_REPOSITORIES="${{ gitea.repository }}" \
+          RENOVATE_REPOSITORIES: "${{ gitea.repository }}"
-            -e RENOVATE_ONBOARDING=false \
+          RENOVATE_ONBOARDING: "false"
-            renovate/renovate
+          GITHUB_COM_TOKEN: ${{ secrets.GITHUB_COM_TOKEN }}

.gitignore

@@ -12,6 +12,17 @@
 # see docs/development.adoc)
 /data/*.pmtiles
 
+# Per-country .osm.pbf cache for offline.pmtiles rebuilds (also large,
+# also local-only — see PmtilesBuilder.cached_extract)
+/data/geofabrik_cache/
+
+# Planetiler's own auxiliary-source cache and scratch working directory
+# (water polygons/Natural Earth/lake centerlines, --download; temp feature
+# DBs, --tmpdir) — relative to the app's CWD, which lands them here
+# alongside the rest of data/ (see extract_offline's --download comment)
+/data/sources/
+/data/tmp/
+
 # Offline Wikipedia ZIM for kiwix-serve (also large, also local-only —
 # same story, see docs/development.adoc)
 /data/kiwix/*

Dockerfile

@@ -1,4 +1,7 @@
-FROM ruby:4.0.6-slim-bookworm
+# trixie, not bookworm: Planetiler needs Java 21+ (UnsupportedClassVersionError
+# otherwise) and bookworm's own default-jre-headless is only Java 17 —
+# bookworm-backports doesn't carry a newer one either, only trixie's does.
+FROM ruby:4.0.6-slim-trixie
 
 # build-essential: puma has a native (C) extension; harmless if the
 # platform-specific gem in Gemfile.lock already has a precompiled binary
@@ -6,7 +9,8 @@ FROM ruby:4.0.6-slim-bookworm
 # ca-certificates/curl: needed for the go-pmtiles/planetiler.jar downloads
 # below (also handy for anyone debugging inside a running container).
 # default-jre-headless: Planetiler is a JVM tool (see PLANETILER_VERSION
-# below) — headless since this never touches a display.
+# below) — headless since this never touches a display; trixie's version
+# of this package is Java 21, see above.
 # osmium-tool: merges multiple countries' OSM extracts into one file before
 # handing them to Planetiler (lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb) — a normal
 # Debian package, no separate download/pinning needed like the other two.

Rakefile

@@ -24,6 +24,22 @@ namespace :overpass do
   end
 end
 
+namespace :hiking do
+  desc "Extract route=hiking relations (name/colour/network/operator, full geometry) from a local " \
+       ".osm.pbf (e.g. one of PmtilesBuilder's own data/geofabrik_cache/*.osm.pbf) and write GeoJSON. " \
+       "Prototype — see lib/maptool/hiking_trails.rb. Usage: rake hiking:trails[input.osm.pbf,out.geojson]"
+  task :trails, %i[pbf out] do |_t, args|
+    %i[pbf out].each { |key| abort("usage: rake hiking:trails[input.osm.pbf,out.geojson]") unless args[key] }
+
+    require_relative "lib/maptool/hiking_trails"
+
+    puts "Extracting hiking routes from #{args[:pbf]}..."
+    geojson = Maptool::HikingTrails.extract(args[:pbf])
+    File.write(args[:out], JSON.generate(geojson))
+    puts "Wrote #{geojson["features"].size} route(s) to #{args[:out]}"
+  end
+end
+
 namespace :gpx do
   desc "Backfill properties.id on Note-category features saved before edit/delete (and its id targeting) existed"
   task :backfill_note_ids do

TODO.adoc

@@ -12,6 +12,8 @@ independence from connectivity.
 * [x] Shaded relief / DEM layer — hillshade toggle in the sidebar, sourced from public Terrarium tiles online; reads `data/terrain.pmtiles` for offline if one's been generated (see docs/development.adoc), otherwise the toggle is online-only for now
 ** [ ] Terrain slope readout for parking (numeric, not just visual shading)
 * [ ] Contour lines from OSM for hikes and mountain passes
+* [x] Hiking trail overlay — Waymarked Trails raster tiles online (`public/js/hiking_trails.js`), colored per-route by the OSM `colour` tag they already render (the KST/KČT paint-blaze colors in Slovakia/Czechia, plain red elsewhere). Click queries a one-off Overpass `around` search (racing 3 public mirrors) for the route's name/colour/network/operator/distance
+** [x] Offline copy wired in for real, no custom Planetiler profile needed — `Maptool::HikingTrails` (`lib/maptool/hiking_trails.rb`) runs `osmium tags-filter r/route=hiking` + `add-locations-to-ways` + `cat -f opl` against the *same* per-country Geofabrik `.osm.pbf` already downloaded for `offline.pmtiles`, no new download. One `data/hiking_trails/<CODE>.geojson` per country (not one combined file), generated as the last step of every offline build and cached like `geofabrik_cache` (skipped once already newer than its source PBF) — a many-country selection no longer means one giant file, since `GET /api/hiking-trails` lists available countries and the Overlays panel's own checklist only fetches `GET /tiles/hiking_trails/<CODE>.geojson` for whichever ones get ticked. Offline click uses a local `queryRenderedFeatures` hit-test instead of Overpass — instant, no network. See docs/development.adoc
 * [x] Overpass/OSM scripts to extract POIs (drinking water, dump stations, LPG, public toilets, laundromats, shops, springs) — `rake overpass:pois`, see docs/development.adoc; writes a `.geojson` to drop in `data/gpx/` or upload. Also runnable from inside the app itself now, see the import plugins entry below (`plugins/overpass-pois` wraps this same query). Each category now carries a real `POI_ICONS` glyph and color (not p4n2gpx's plain red marker) plus a popup description built from opening_hours/operator/website tags
 * [x] Import plugins: a pluggable way to add more data sources (Park4Night, iOverlander, Freecampsites, ...) without their scrapers necessarily living in this (public) repo — sidebar icon (logged in only) lists whatever's under `plugins/`, "Run for this area" uses the current map viewport as the bbox, no separate area-picker needed. Contract: a `plugin.json` manifest + a script that reads `--south`/`--west`/`--north`/`--east` and prints a GeoJSON `FeatureCollection` to stdout (`lib/maptool/plugins.rb`, `GET /api/plugins`, `POST /api/plugins/:name/run`) — output saved the same way an upload would be. `plugins/overpass-pois` ships as the reference example; a private/ToS-sensitive scraper just drops its own directory in locally and is never `git add`ed
 ** [x] Park4Night — private plugin (`data/plugins/p4n2gpx/`, outside this repo per the "ToS-sensitive scraper" note above); iOverlander/Freecampsites still open, same story
@@ -30,6 +32,7 @@ independence from connectivity.
 ** [x] Filter panel as a "Unigrid Matrix" — an icon grid to toggle categories on/off, styled like the legend on an official NPS paper map, instead of plain dropdowns
 * [ ] Custom vector style (MVT/MapLibre) using the NPS color palette — muted natural tones for forests, water, and contours — so POIs and routes stand out at high zoom
 ** [ ] Landuse & protections: distinct styling for national parks, nature reserves (translucent green/gray-green), military zones, and private land (important for wild camping)
+** [ ] OpenTopoMap-style `fill-pattern` texture for forest (tree icons) and meadow/pasture (grass texture) landcover, instead of flat fill colors — Liberty's own sprite (`public/vendor/liberty-sprite/`) only has a `wetland` dot pattern, no tree/grass, so this needs custom pattern images added to the sprite sheet; works offline and online alike since it's just a style/sprite change, unlike pulling in OpenTopoMap's own raster tiles (online-only, restrictive tile-usage policy, wouldn't match the NPS palette)
 ** [x] Elevation-tinted terrain — a `color-relief` layer (hypsometric tint, this app's own green→brown→gray palette) under the hillshade layer, same "Terrain shading" toggle
 ** [x] Road hierarchy: clearly distinguish paved roads from unpaved/gravel/track — critical for knowing if the camper can get there
 
@@ -70,3 +73,12 @@ Deprioritized for now — revisit after the sections above land.
 * [ ] Level gauge from IMU (ESP32/RPi) — camper tilt, wheel-chock leveling calculation
 * [ ] Victron/Home Assistant via MQTT or WebSocket — battery SoC, tank levels, temperatures
 * [ ] Plot GPS track with historical battery/speed data
+
+== Admin / ops tooling
+
+* [ ] Offline build log readability — a failed pmtiles/terrain build currently surfaces as one
+  ~500k-character line; format it for the web UI instead (e.g. per-country/state name + status,
+  not the raw combined stdout/stderr dump)
+* [ ] Expose the build log via an API endpoint, not just embedded in the admin page
+* [ ] Document all API endpoints somewhere and make them easy to browse (status of each) —
+  maybe a status page, login-gated

app.rb

@@ -15,6 +15,40 @@ require_relative "lib/maptool/plugins"
 require_relative "lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder"
 
 module Maptool
+  # Only /login, /auth/callback and /logout ever write to session
+  # (oauth_state, user, session.clear) — everything else only ever reads
+  # it, if it touches session at all. That still matters:
+  # Rack::Session::Cookie re-serializes and re-sets the cookie on *every*
+  # response that so much as read session (Rack::Protection's own CSRF
+  # check does, on nearly every request) — reflecting whatever cookie
+  # that particular request happened to arrive with, whether or not
+  # anything changed. A HAR capture caught the actual failure mode this
+  # caused: seconds after a successful login, a background poll fired the
+  # instant the page loads was still carrying the browser's pre-login
+  # cookie (a client-side timing race across the OAuth redirect chain,
+  # not something this server controls), and its own re-issued Set-Cookie
+  # landed *after* the login's, silently overwriting session[:user] with
+  # nothing logged anywhere to explain it.
+  #
+  # A plain Rack middleware, not a Sinatra `before` filter: static assets
+  # (public_folder — every JS/CSS/font/vendor file) are served by
+  # Sinatra's own built-in static-file shortcut, which bypasses route and
+  # filter dispatch entirely but is still wrapped by this, same as every
+  # other response — each one was independently capable of winning the
+  # clobbering race a `before` filter alone left uncovered.
+  class SkipSessionWrite
+    WRITE_PATHS = %w[/login /auth/callback /logout].freeze
+
+    def initialize(app)
+      @app = app
+    end
+
+    def call(env)
+      env["rack.session.options"][:skip] = true unless WRITE_PATHS.include?(env["PATH_INFO"])
+      @app.call(env)
+    end
+  end
+
   class App < Sinatra::Base
     set :public_folder, File.join(__dir__, "public")
     set :views, File.join(__dir__, "views")
@@ -33,6 +67,7 @@ module Maptool
     # don't survive a restart there, which is fine outside production.
     set :sessions, httponly: true, secure: production?, same_site: :lax,
                    secret: ENV.fetch("SESSION_SECRET") { SecureRandom.hex(32) }
+    use SkipSessionWrite
 
     # Cache-busts /js and /css requests: browsers (and a caching proxy in
     # front of production, see docs/deployment.adoc) hang onto static
@@ -277,6 +312,42 @@ module Maptool
       json PmtilesBuilder.offline_status
     end
 
+    # Deletes offline.pmtiles plus its whole per-country download cache —
+    # a manual "reclaim the space"/"start over" action, distinct from
+    # unticking countries in the region picker (which only changes what a
+    # future build covers, doesn't free anything already on disk).
+    delete "/api/offline-tiles" do
+      require_login!
+      begin
+        PmtilesBuilder.delete_offline_data(DATA_DIR)
+      rescue PmtilesBuilder::BuildError => e
+        halt 409, json(error: e.message)
+      end
+      json ok: true
+    end
+
+    # What's actually in the per-country download cache right now (not the
+    # same as offline.pmtiles' own meta.sources — see cached_extracts) —
+    # read-only, same tier as GET /api/offline-regions above, so the region
+    # picker can show a size + delete affordance next to each cached
+    # country regardless of whether it's still selected or already built.
+    get "/api/offline-tiles/cache" do
+      json extracts: PmtilesBuilder.cached_extracts(DATA_DIR)
+    end
+
+    # Deletes one country's cached Geofabrik extract only — e.g. to force a
+    # clean re-download of just that one, or reclaim space for a country
+    # that's no longer selected (the cache otherwise keeps it indefinitely).
+    delete "/api/offline-tiles/cache/:code" do
+      require_login!
+      begin
+        PmtilesBuilder.delete_cached_extract(DATA_DIR, params[:code])
+      rescue PmtilesBuilder::BuildError => e
+        halt 409, json(error: e.message)
+      end
+      json ok: true
+    end
+
     # Same optional-local-file story as offline.pmtiles above — see
     # docs/development.adoc for how to generate one, until then hillshade
     # just stays unavailable while the offline basemap is active.
@@ -309,6 +380,45 @@ module Maptool
       json PmtilesBuilder.terrain_status
     end
 
+    # Same reasoning as DELETE /api/offline-tiles above.
+    delete "/api/terrain-tiles" do
+      require_login!
+      begin
+        PmtilesBuilder.delete_terrain_data(DATA_DIR)
+      rescue PmtilesBuilder::BuildError => e
+        halt 409, json(error: e.message)
+      end
+      json ok: true
+    end
+
+    # Generated as a step inside POST /api/offline-tiles/build (see
+    # PmtilesBuilder.extract_hiking_trails) rather than its own separate
+    # build — it's derived from the exact same per-country .osm.pbf cache
+    # offline.pmtiles itself already downloads, so there's nothing of its
+    # own to trigger; DELETE /api/offline-tiles removes it too. One file
+    # per country (not one combined file) so a viewer only ever fetches
+    # the country they actually pick in the Hiking trails overlay's own
+    # checklist (public/js/hiking_trails.js), not every selected country's
+    # trails at once — `countries` lists which ones exist to build that
+    # checklist from.
+    get "/api/hiking-trails" do
+      json countries: PmtilesBuilder.hiking_trails_countries(DATA_DIR)
+    end
+
+    # Fetched client-side only for a country the viewer actually ticks in
+    # the Hiking trails checklist, not on page load. :code is constrained
+    # to exactly what hiking_trails_countries can ever return (two
+    # uppercase letters) — otherwise this would accept an arbitrary
+    # ".."-laden path segment.
+    get "/tiles/hiking_trails/:code.geojson" do
+      halt 404 unless params[:code].match?(/\A[A-Z]{2}\z/)
+
+      path = PmtilesBuilder.hiking_trails_country_path(DATA_DIR, params[:code])
+      halt 404 unless File.exist?(path)
+
+      send_file path, type: "application/geo+json"
+    end
+
     # Pinged once per page load (public/js/map.js) — url is a same-origin
     # path (not kiwix-serve's own address, which the browser can't reach
     # directly behind the reverse proxy in front of this app), proxied by
@@ -633,10 +743,8 @@ module Maptool
       halt 502, json(error: "track has no positions") if coordinates.empty?
       last = points.last
 
-      json(
+      features = [
-        type: "FeatureCollection",
+        { type: "Feature", geometry: { type: "LineString", coordinates: coordinates }, properties: { "kind" => "actual" } },
-        features: [
-          { type: "Feature", geometry: { type: "LineString", coordinates: coordinates }, properties: {} },
         {
           type: "Feature",
           geometry: { type: "Point", coordinates: coordinates.last },
@@ -650,7 +758,21 @@ module Maptool
           ),
         },
       ]
-      )
+
+      # Only present when the activity was started from a saved Garmin
+      # course (see LiveTrackClient#fetch) — plotted separately from the
+      # actual track ("kind" distinguishes the two LineStrings) since it's
+      # the planned route, not where the person has actually been.
+      course_coordinates = result.course&.[]("geoPoints")&.filter_map { |p| p.dig("position", "lon") && p.dig("position", "lat") && [p["position"]["lon"], p["position"]["lat"]] }
+      if course_coordinates&.any?
+        features << {
+          type: "Feature",
+          geometry: { type: "LineString", coordinates: course_coordinates },
+          properties: { "kind" => "planned", "name" => result.course["name"] },
+        }
+      end
+
+      json(type: "FeatureCollection", features: features)
     end
 
     get "/api/gnss/position" do

docker-compose.yaml

@@ -65,7 +65,12 @@ services:
       # happens outside this mount, in the container's own filesystem — a
       # large country's .osm.pbf plus Planetiler's working set can be
       # several GB, worth knowing if the host is ever short on space there.
-      - ./data:/app/data
+      # :Z (not :z — this path is only ever mounted into this one
+      # container) relabels the host directory for SELinux, since Podman
+      # on an SELinux-enforcing host otherwise denies the container write
+      # access to a bind-mounted directory regardless of Unix permissions
+      # — harmless/ignored on a host without SELinux.
+      - ./data:/app/data:Z
 
   # Fakes a GNSS fix (a loop around Bratislava, see
   # bin/gnss_simulator.rb/docs/development.adoc) since there's no real
@@ -118,4 +123,9 @@ services:
     # ever talks to this container directly.
     command: ["--urlRootLocation=/kiwix", "/data/wikipedia.zim"]
     volumes:
-      - ./data/kiwix/wikipedia.zim:/data/wikipedia.zim
+      # :Z, same SELinux reasoning as maptool's own ./data mount above.
+      - ./data/kiwix/wikipedia.zim:/data/wikipedia.zim:Z
+
+networks:
+  default:
+    enable_ipv6: true

docs/deployment.adoc

@@ -7,11 +7,21 @@ MapTool deploys as a Podman container (via `podman compose`, driven by a
 the Gitea Actions runners run on. Two separate runners are registered
 against the Gitea instance:
 
-* The existing Docker-based runner (`gitea/runner:3`), labels
+* The existing Docker-based runner (`gitea/runner:3`), label
-  `ubuntu-latest`/`ubuntu-24.04`/`ubuntu-22.04` — runs the `check` job
+  `brick-build` — runs the `check` and `renovate` jobs in a fresh,
-  in a fresh, isolated container per job, same as before.
+  isolated container per job. Every label on this runner (including
+  `ubuntu-latest`/`ubuntu-24.04`/`ubuntu-22.04`, still registered but no
+  longer what `check`/`renovate` pin to) now maps to Gitea's own
+  official runner image (`docker.gitea.com/runner-images:ubuntu-latest`,
+  has Node out of the box) — an earlier `opensuse/leap:16.0` mapping for
+  `brick-build` specifically had no Node, which every step in
+  `check`/`renovate` needs (they're JS-based Actions), and briefly broke
+  both jobs (2026-09-12) until reverted to the shared `ubuntu-latest`
+  label; now that the image itself is fixed, both are pinned back to
+  `brick-build` — this machine specifically, not whichever runner
+  happens to answer to the shared label (e.g. "Gitea Runner on Cube").
 * A dedicated native runner, installed directly on the host (no Docker
-  around it), label `cube-host` — runs only the `deploy` job.
+  around it), label `brick-host` — runs only the `deploy` job.
 
 They're separate because the Docker-based runner's jobs (whether in
 its usual isolated per-job containers, or tried directly inside its
@@ -55,6 +65,13 @@ expect this to flip the other way, `/srv/docker` symlinked to
   only holds what's checked into this public repo, and gets wiped and
   replaced by the checkout sync on every deploy same as the rest of
   `build/`.
+  `data/` (and the kiwix ZIM path) carries a `:Z` SELinux relabel in
+  `docker-compose.yaml`'s bind mounts — without it, Podman on an
+  SELinux-enforcing host denies the container write access to the
+  bind-mounted directory regardless of its Unix permissions (surfaces
+  as a plain `Permission denied` in the app's own logs, nothing
+  SELinux-labeled unless you go looking in `audit.log`); harmless/
+  ignored on a host where SELinux isn't enforcing.
 * `.env` — regenerated every deploy (see below), lives here rather
   than in `build/` for the same reason as the symlink: `docker
   compose`/`podman compose` auto-load `.env` from the compose file's
@@ -84,7 +101,7 @@ label:
 ----
 runner:
   labels:
-    - "cube-host"
+    - "brick-host"
 ----
 
 The `host` scheme means jobs run directly via the runner process's own
@@ -195,7 +212,7 @@ const PROCESSED_LABEL = "livetrack-processed";
 
 function checkLiveTrackEmail() {
   const label = GmailApp.getUserLabelByName(PROCESSED_LABEL) || GmailApp.createLabel(PROCESSED_LABEL);
-  const threads = GmailApp.search(`from:noreply@garmin.com subject:LiveTrack -label:${PROCESSED_LABEL}`);
+  const threads = GmailApp.search(`from:noreply@garmin.com -label:${PROCESSED_LABEL}`);
 
   threads.forEach(thread => {
     // getBody() (raw HTML), not getPlainBody(): the email has no text/plain
@@ -218,9 +235,14 @@ function checkLiveTrackEmail() {
 
 The Gmail label (rather than marking the message read/unread) tracks which
 threads are already handled without touching the user's own inbox state.
-`subject:LiveTrack` matches regardless of the account's language — Garmin
+No `subject:LiveTrack` filter on the search — despite Gmail's own
-keeps "LiveTrack" as-is in the subject even in a localized
+substring-match documentation for `subject:`, that filter empirically
-("Sledujte LiveTrack používateľa ...") one.
+returned zero threads against a real, currently-arriving LiveTrack email
+whose subject does contain the word ("Sledujte LiveTrack používateľa
+...", confirmed 2026-09-20), so it's left out entirely — the regex match
+below is what actually narrows this down to real LiveTrack emails with a
+usable session link, `from:noreply@garmin.com` alone is deliberately
+broad.
 
 Set the trigger from the editor: clock icon on the left (Triggers) → *Add
 Trigger* → function `checkLiveTrackEmail`, time-driven, "Minutes timer",
@@ -237,7 +259,7 @@ webhook simply won't receive that session; nothing breaks.
 == CI deploy job
 
 `.gitea/workflows/ci.yml`'s `deploy` job runs after `check` passes, only
-on a push to `main`, with `runs-on: cube-host`:
+on a push to `main`, with `runs-on: brick-host`:
 
 . Checks out the repo with plain `git` (`fetch` + `checkout`,
   authenticated via a one-off `http.extraHeader`) rather than

docs/development.adoc

@@ -71,18 +71,91 @@ and similar, varying by region):
 
 [source,shell]
 ----
-pmtiles extract https://download.mapterhorn.com/planet.pmtiles planet-extract.pmtiles --bbox=west,south,east,north --maxzoom=15
+pmtiles extract https://download.mapterhorn.com/planet.pmtiles planet-extract.pmtiles --bbox=west,south,east,north --maxzoom=13 --overfetch=0
 # only if a regional chunk covers the bbox too (see download_urls.json) —
 # most bboxes hit exactly one, a bbox straddling a chunk boundary hits two:
-pmtiles extract https://download.mapterhorn.com/<chunk>.pmtiles chunk-extract.pmtiles --bbox=west,south,east,north --maxzoom=15
+pmtiles extract https://download.mapterhorn.com/<chunk>.pmtiles chunk-extract.pmtiles --bbox=west,south,east,north --maxzoom=13 --overfetch=0
 pmtiles merge planet-extract.pmtiles chunk-extract.pmtiles data/terrain.pmtiles
 ----
 
+`--overfetch=0`: the default (0.05) merges nearby byte ranges into fewer,
+bigger requests to save round-trips — for `planet.pmtiles` (global z0-12,
+tens of GB) over a bbox spanning several countries this can collapse the
+whole extract into a *single* multi-GB request with no way to resume after
+a mid-transfer HTTP/2 stream reset. `--overfetch=0` trades that one
+fragile mega-request for many small ones instead (spread over
+`--download-threads`, default 4) — slower end to end, but a dropped
+connection only loses one small request's worth of progress, not the
+whole extract.
+
+`--maxzoom=13`: raster DEM tiles don't compress away like vector ones do
+(every tile is a real image, even over flat/empty terrain), so each extra
+zoom level roughly quadruples storage — the app's own build
+(`PmtilesBuilder::TERRAIN_MAX_ZOOM`) caps at 13, each regional chunk's
+own native minzoom, rather than the online hillshade layer's z15. A
+12-country selection at z15 was headed well past 181GB; z13 is still
+plenty for the hillshade toggle and the planned slope readout.
+
 Tiles are 512px WebP, not the 256px PNG this app's *online* Terrarium
 source uses — `public/js/dem.js`'s own point-elevation lookups
 (`shadow.js`'s terrain-shadow overlay) read the actual decoded tile
 size rather than assuming one, so this isn't a problem either way.
 
+== Offline hiking trails
+
+The sidebar's "Hiking trails" overlay works online out of the box
+(waymarkedtrails.org raster tiles, `public/js/hiking_trails.js`) —
+clicking a trail fires a one-off Overpass query for its name/colour/
+network/distance. For it to work offline too, one `data/hiking_trails/
+<CODE>.geojson` per country is generated automatically as the last step
+of every `offline.pmtiles` build (`Maptool::HikingTrails`,
+`lib/maptool/hiking_trails.rb`), straight from the *same* per-country
+`.osm.pbf` files already downloaded for `offline.pmtiles` itself — no
+separate download, no third-party service:
+
+[source,shell]
+----
+osmium tags-filter country.osm.pbf r/route=hiking -o hiking.osm.pbf
+osmium add-locations-to-ways hiking.osm.pbf -o hiking-located.osm.pbf
+osmium cat hiking-located.osm.pbf -f opl,locations_on_ways=true,add_metadata=false -o hiking.opl
+----
+
+`add-locations-to-ways` matters: a plain Geofabrik PBF's ways only carry
+bare node *references*, not coordinates, so skipping this step silently
+produces ways with empty x/y in the OPL output and every route gets
+dropped for having no usable geometry — not an error, just wrong output
+(verified against a real extract before this was caught). No general OSM
+tool stitches a route relation's member ways into one line for you
+(routes are a semantic grouping, not a geometry type), so
+`HikingTrails.parse_opl` does that walk itself — the same thing
+waymarkedtrails.org and this app's own online Overpass click handler
+already do.
+
+Best-effort per country: an extraction problem on one country's PBF logs
+a warning and is skipped rather than failing the whole `offline.pmtiles`
+build, or even the other countries in the same selection, over what's a
+bonus overlay, not the core map (`PmtilesBuilder.extract_hiking_trails`).
+Cached the same way `geofabrik_cache` is (skipped once a country's own
+extract is already newer than its source `.osm.pbf`), so growing the
+region selection by one country only extracts that one. Coordinates are
+rounded to 5 decimal places (~1m, plenty for a rendered line) — Slovakia
+alone is ~3000 routes, ~30MB unrounded.
+
+One file per country rather than one combined file: `GET /api/hiking-trails`
+lists which country codes have an extract (`countries: [...]`), and the
+Overlays panel's "Hiking trails" item turns that into a checklist —
+each ticked country fetches its own `GET /tiles/hiking_trails/<CODE>.geojson`
+only then, not on page load and not for countries never ticked. Offline
+click hit-tests the loaded vector layer(s) directly
+(`queryRenderedFeatures`) instead of querying Overpass, so it resolves
+instantly with no network at all. `rake hiking:trails[pbf,out]` runs the
+extraction by hand against one `.osm.pbf` for testing.
+
+`DELETE /api/offline-tiles` removes the whole `data/hiking_trails/`
+directory along with `offline.pmtiles` and the Geofabrik cache — there's
+no separate delete/rebuild route for it, since it's not an independent
+build.
+
 == In-app regeneration
 
 A logged-in user can also generate both files above from the app
@@ -94,15 +167,20 @@ Ticking countries and clicking "Apply changes" saves the selection
 (`data/offline_regions.json`, an array of ISO A2 codes) and rebuilds
 both files to cover it.
 
-There's no standalone per-country file to individually delete —
+There's no standalone per-country *built* file — `offline.pmtiles`/
-`offline.pmtiles`/`terrain.pmtiles` are always one combined extract for
+`terrain.pmtiles` are always one combined extract for the *whole
-the *whole current selection*. "Remove a country" and "refresh a
+current selection*. "Remove a country" is just "change the selection,
-country" are both just "change the selection, then Apply" (unticking a
+then Apply" (unticking a country and applying rebuilds without it).
-country and applying rebuilds without it; nothing to separately
+terrain.pmtiles re-extracts its selection from scratch on
-delete). Every Apply re-extracts the entire selection from scratch, not
+every Apply — fine given that extraction is byte-range requests
-just what changed — fine given extraction is fast (byte-range requests
+against a remote archive, not full downloads. offline.pmtiles, by
-against remote archives, not per-tile fetches), but worth revisiting if
+contrast, downloads a whole country's `.osm.pbf` from Geofabrik (can be
-someone selects half of Europe at once and finds it slow.
+multi-GB), so it keeps a per-country cache under
+`data/geofabrik_cache/` instead of re-fetching on every Apply — a
+country already cached is only re-downloaded if Geofabrik's own
+`Last-Modified` for it has moved on since (checked with a cheap `HEAD`,
+see `PmtilesBuilder.cached_extract`), so growing or shrinking the
+selection only touches whatever's actually new to it.
 
 This wraps exactly the manual workflows documented above
 (`lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb`). offline.pmtiles downloads each
@@ -128,7 +206,29 @@ the current selection, `POST` to change it, then `POST
 /api/offline-tiles/build` / `/api/terrain-tiles/build`, polled via the
 matching `*/build-status` route) — only one of each kind at a time;
 starting a second while one's running gets a 409, as does starting
-either with nothing selected yet.
+either with nothing selected yet. While running, `build-status` also
+includes a `step` string (e.g. `"fetching PL (3/4) — done: SK, CZ —
+pending: HU"`, or `"tiling with planetiler"`) — see
+`PmtilesBuilder.run_job`'s `report_step`.
+
+`DELETE /api/offline-tiles` removes offline.pmtiles, its sidecar meta,
+and the whole per-country download cache (`data/geofabrik_cache/`) —
+`DELETE /api/terrain-tiles` does the same for terrain.pmtiles. Both are
+a manual "reclaim the space" / "start over" action (409 while that
+kind's build is running), separate from the region picker's Apply,
+which only changes what a *future* build covers and never frees
+anything already on disk. `DELETE
+/api/offline-tiles/cache/:code` removes just one country's cached
+extract, e.g. to force a clean re-download of it without touching the
+rest of the cache. `GET /api/offline-tiles/cache` lists what's
+actually in that cache right now (code/size/Last-Modified per file) —
+not the same thing as offline.pmtiles' own `meta.sources`, which only
+reflects the last successful build: a country can be cached without
+ever having been built (ticked, not yet Applied) or built from without
+still being selected (unticked since). The region picker shows this
+next to each country's checkbox, with its own delete button, rather
+than only offering "delete everything" on the whole offline.pmtiles
+row.
 
 Each successful build also writes a small sidecar (`offline.pmtiles.
 meta.json` — each source country's code/Geofabrik slug/Last-Modified;

docs/nps-resources.adoc

@@ -286,6 +286,50 @@ own work (a map viewer, not a publisher of NPS-branded content):
   resource — included here only because it was shared alongside the
   typography notes above.
 
+== Arrowhead (shield) logo colors
+
+Unrelated to anything this app renders — noted here only because it came up
+in conversation (wanting exact colors to 3D-print the NPS arrowhead) and
+this doc is already the dumping ground for NPS-ecosystem color/graphic-identity
+facts. Per NPS's own graphic identity standards (Harpers Ferry Center), the
+arrowhead uses three official Pantone spot colors plus white:
+
+[cols="2,2,1,1"]
+|===
+| Element | Pantone | Hex (converted) | Nearest RAL Classic
+
+| Mountain
+| Dark Rust, PMS 1615 C
+| `#8b4720`
+| RAL 2013 Pearl orange (`#923E25`)
+
+| Sky
+| Medium Rust, PMS 1605 C
+| `#a65523`
+| RAL 8023 Orange brown (`#A45729`)
+
+| Trees / grass
+| Dark Green, PMS 553 C
+| `#284734`
+| RAL 6012 Black green (`#2F3D3A`)
+
+| Bison, lake, snowfield, type
+| White
+| `#ffffff`
+| RAL 9016 Traffic white (`#F1F1EA`) — RAL has no pure white
+|===
+
+Hex values are third-party Pantone→RGB conversions, not something NPS
+publishes directly (their style guide only specifies PMS codes). RAL codes
+are the closest match by RGB distance against the RAL Classic chart — same
+caveat, not an official NPS-endorsed mapping, just the nearest available
+code for filament/paint shopping. Source: NPS Graphic Identity and Style
+Guides (https://www.nps.gov/subjects/hfc/nps-graphic-identity-and-style-guides.htm),
+FAQs About Arrowhead Artwork
+(https://www.nps.gov/subjects/hfc/faqs-about-arrowhead-artwork.htm). Use of
+the arrowhead symbol itself is controlled by law/regulation/policy — see
+the FAQ page before printing/distributing anything bearing it.
+
 == NPMap4 (the older, Leaflet-based generation)
 
 https://www.nps.gov/lib/npmap.js/4.2.1/ — predecessor to npmap5,

docs/third-party-notices.adoc

@@ -51,6 +51,20 @@ overview's polar pan limit, but MapLibre 6's `Map` no longer exposes
 `.transform` at all — guarded to skip that (cosmetic) adjustment
 instead of throwing when it's absent.
 
+Also vendored under `public/vendor/` — MIT-licensed, attribution
+required (`LICENSE` included alongside):
+
+[cols="1,1,2"]
+|===
+| Library | Version | Source
+
+| maplibre-gl-lanes (offline hiking trails, `public/js/hiking_trails.js`
+— trails sharing a path drawn as parallel lanes); its `dist/*.mjs`
+build, minus the trailing `sourceMappingURL` comment
+| 1.3.0
+| https://github.com/c0nsumer/maplibre-gl-lanes
+|===
+
 Also vendored under `public/vendor/` — MIT-licensed (© 2013 Panayiotis
 Lipiridis), attribution required (this notice satisfies that):
 
@@ -134,7 +148,7 @@ terrain.pmtiles regeneration.
 | https://github.com/onthegomap/planetiler
 
 | osmium-tool (`osmium`, installed via the `osmium-tool` Debian package)
-| (Debian bookworm's packaged version)
+| (Debian trixie's packaged version)
 | GPL-3.0
 | https://github.com/osmcode/osmium-tool
 |===
@@ -144,5 +158,5 @@ To update a vendored library: download its package (e.g.
 `public/vendor/<name>/`, and update the version in this file. To
 update go-pmtiles or Planetiler, bump `PMTILES_VERSION`/
 `PLANETILER_VERSION` in the `Dockerfile` and the version here —
-osmium-tool tracks whatever version Debian bookworm currently packages,
+osmium-tool tracks whatever version Debian trixie currently packages,
 nothing to pin on this side.

lib/maptool/hiking_trails.rb

@@ -0,0 +1,181 @@
+require "open3"
+require "tmpdir"
+require "json"
+require_relative "track_stats"
+
+module Maptool
+  # Prototype: extracts route=hiking relations (name/colour/network/operator,
+  # full member-way geometry) straight out of a Geofabrik .osm.pbf — the same
+  # file PmtilesBuilder already downloads per country for offline.pmtiles, so
+  # this needs no separate download or third-party service. Three osmium
+  # subprocess steps do the heavy lifting (osmium is already a server
+  # dependency, see PmtilesBuilder/docs/development.adoc):
+  #
+  #  1. `osmium tags-filter FILE r/route=hiking -o hiking.osm.pbf` — pulls
+  #     out just the hiking relations *and* (by default, no -R) every way/
+  #     node they reference, so the output is small and self-contained.
+  #  2. `osmium add-locations-to-ways` — a plain Geofabrik PBF's ways only
+  #     carry bare node *references* (ids), not coordinates; this resolves
+  #     each way's node ids against the node objects in the same file and
+  #     rewrites the way with real coordinates attached. Verified against a
+  #     real extract (Macedonia) that skipping this step silently produces
+  #     ways with empty x/y (`n123xy`, no numbers) in the OPL output below —
+  #     not an error, just wrong output, so easy to miss without checking.
+  #  3. `osmium cat hiking.osm.pbf -f opl,locations_on_ways=true,add_metadata=false`
+  #     — OPL is a plain-text, one-object-per-line format (see
+  #     https://osmcode.org/opl-file-format/); locations_on_ways (now that
+  #     step 2 actually populated them) embeds each way's node coordinates
+  #     directly in its own line, so no separate node-id -> [lon,lat] table
+  #     needs building, just two passes over text.
+  #
+  # No general OSM tool stitches a route relation's member ways into one
+  # line for you (routes are a semantic grouping, not a geometry type) —
+  # every hiking-trail renderer, including this app's own Overpass-based
+  # click handler (public/js/hiking_trails.js) and waymarkedtrails.org
+  # itself, does this same member-way walk by hand.
+  module HikingTrails
+    class ExtractError < StandardError; end
+
+    ROUTE_TAGS = %w[name description ref colour network operator].freeze
+
+    def self.osmium_bin
+      ENV.fetch("OSMIUM_BIN", "osmium")
+    end
+
+    # pbf_path: a Geofabrik-style .osm.pbf, e.g. one of
+    # PmtilesBuilder.cached_extracts' own files. Returns a GeoJSON
+    # FeatureCollection (MultiLineString per relation, one sub-line per
+    # member way — not one big concatenated LineString, since a relation's
+    # ways aren't always contiguous/ordered and jumping across a gap would
+    # draw a spurious straight connector).
+    def self.extract(pbf_path)
+      Dir.mktmpdir("maptool-hiking-trails") do |dir|
+        filtered = File.join(dir, "hiking.osm.pbf")
+        run!(osmium_bin, "tags-filter", pbf_path, "r/route=hiking", "-o", filtered)
+
+        located = File.join(dir, "hiking-located.osm.pbf")
+        run!(osmium_bin, "add-locations-to-ways", filtered, "-o", located)
+
+        opl_path = File.join(dir, "hiking.opl")
+        run!(osmium_bin, "cat", located, "-f", "opl,locations_on_ways=true,add_metadata=false", "-o", opl_path)
+
+        parse_opl(File.read(opl_path))
+      end
+    end
+
+    # Pure — no subprocess — so it's cheaply testable against a canned OPL
+    # fixture, same "keep the real logic testable without the real tool
+    # installed" reasoning OverpassPois.to_geojson already gives for staying
+    # separate from OverpassPois.fetch.
+    def self.parse_opl(text)
+      ways = {} # way id -> [[lon, lat], ...]
+      relations = [] # { tags:, members: [{type:, id:}, ...] }
+
+      text.each_line do |line|
+        fields = line.chomp.split(" ")
+        head = fields.first
+        next unless head
+
+        case head[0]
+        when "w"
+          ways[head[1..].to_i] = way_coordinates(fields)
+        when "r"
+          tags = tags_field(fields)
+          relations << { id: head[1..].to_i, tags: tags, members: members_field(fields) } if tags["route"] == "hiking"
+        end
+      end
+
+      features = relations.filter_map { |relation| relation_feature(relation, ways) }
+      { "type" => "FeatureCollection", "features" => features }
+    end
+
+    def self.relation_feature(relation, ways)
+      lines = relation[:members]
+              .select { |member| member[:type] == "w" }
+              .filter_map { |member| ways[member[:id]] }
+              .select { |coords| coords.size >= 2 }
+      return nil if lines.empty?
+
+      distance = lines.sum { |coords| TrackStats.compute(coords)["distance_meters"] }
+      tags = relation[:tags]
+      properties = {
+        "id" => relation[:id],
+        "name" => tags["name"] || tags["description"],
+        "distance_meters" => distance.round(1),
+      }
+      ROUTE_TAGS.each { |key| properties[key] ||= tags[key] }
+
+      {
+        "type" => "Feature",
+        "properties" => properties.compact,
+        # Rounded to 5 decimal places (~1m) — full OSM float precision
+        # (~1cm) is pointless for a rendered line and roughly doubles the
+        # size of every coordinate pair once this many-country GeoJSON is
+        # actually served to a browser.
+        "geometry" => { "type" => "MultiLineString", "coordinates" => round_coordinates(lines) },
+      }
+    end
+    private_class_method :relation_feature
+
+    def self.round_coordinates(lines)
+      lines.map { |coords| coords.map { |lon, lat| [lon.round(5), lat.round(5)] } }
+    end
+    private_class_method :round_coordinates
+
+    def self.field(fields, letter)
+      fields.find { |f| f.start_with?(letter) }
+    end
+    private_class_method :field
+
+    def self.tags_field(fields)
+      raw = field(fields, "T")&.delete_prefix("T") || ""
+      return {} if raw.empty?
+
+      raw.split(",").to_h { |pair| pair.split("=", 2).map { |part| unescape(part.to_s) } }
+    end
+    private_class_method :tags_field
+
+    def self.members_field(fields)
+      raw = field(fields, "M")&.delete_prefix("M") || ""
+      return [] if raw.empty?
+
+      raw.split(",").map do |member|
+        { type: member[0], id: member[1..].split("@", 2).first.to_i }
+      end
+    end
+    private_class_method :members_field
+
+    # "n123x14.123y49.456,n124x14.130y49.460,..." -> [[14.123, 49.456], ...].
+    # A member id with no embedded location (shouldn't happen with
+    # locations_on_ways=true and -R omitted, but a way with a dangling/
+    # missing node reference is possible in real-world data) is skipped
+    # rather than raising — one bad node shouldn't drop the whole route.
+    def self.way_coordinates(fields)
+      raw = field(fields, "N")&.delete_prefix("N") || ""
+      return [] if raw.empty?
+
+      raw.split(",").filter_map do |node_ref|
+        match = node_ref.match(/\An\d+x(?<lon>-?[\d.]+)y(?<lat>-?[\d.]+)\z/)
+        [match[:lon].to_f, match[:lat].to_f] if match
+      end
+    end
+    private_class_method :way_coordinates
+
+    # OPL escapes space/newline/comma/equals/@/% as %<hex>% (see
+    # https://osmcode.org/opl-file-format/#_encoding) — only tag keys/
+    # values and usernames can contain them; the field-letter prefixes and
+    # id/comma/@ separators we split on above are never themselves escaped.
+    def self.unescape(str)
+      str.gsub(/%([0-9a-fA-F]{1,6})%/) { [Regexp.last_match(1).to_i(16)].pack("U") }
+    end
+    private_class_method :unescape
+
+    def self.run!(*args)
+      stdout, stderr, status = Open3.capture3(*args)
+      raise ExtractError, "#{args.first} exited with status #{status.exitstatus}: #{[stdout, stderr].map(&:strip).reject(&:empty?).join("\n")}" unless status.success?
+    rescue Errno::ENOENT, Errno::EACCES => e
+      raise ExtractError, "could not run '#{args.first}' (#{e.message}) — is osmium-tool installed and on PATH?"
+    end
+    private_class_method :run!
+  end
+end

lib/maptool/livetrack_client.rb

@@ -1,5 +1,6 @@
 require "net/http"
 require "json"
+require "time"
 
 module Maptool
   # Fetches a Garmin LiveTrack session's track and metadata.
@@ -18,7 +19,7 @@ module Maptool
     USER_AGENT = "Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64) AppleWebKit/537.36 (KHTML, like Gecko) Chrome/120.0 Safari/537.36"
     PUSH_PATTERN = /self\.__next_f\.push\((\[.*?\])\)<\/script>/m
 
-    Result = Struct.new(:points, :session, keyword_init: true)
+    Result = Struct.new(:points, :session, :course, keyword_init: true)
 
     def self.fetch(session_id, token)
       new.fetch(session_id, token)
@@ -29,6 +30,10 @@ module Maptool
     # if that part wasn't found even though points were (seen in practice:
     # session details are consistently present alongside points, but nothing
     # here depends on that holding forever).
+    # `course`: the planned route (name/geoPoints), or nil — only present
+    # when the activity was actually started from a saved Garmin course
+    # (session["courseIds"] is how the page itself knows to fetch one; a
+    # plain unplanned activity has neither).
     def fetch(session_id, token)
       payloads = parse_payloads(fetch_html(session_id, token))
 
@@ -36,18 +41,42 @@ module Maptool
       raise FetchError, "no track points found (session invalid or expired?)" unless points
 
       session = search(payloads) { |node| node if node["sessionName"] }
+      # First of possibly several — a LiveTrack session only ever follows
+      # the one course it was started from.
+      course = search(payloads) { |node| node["courses"].first if node["courses"].is_a?(Array) && !node["courses"].empty? }
 
-      Result.new(points: clean(points), session: clean(session))
+      Result.new(points: clean(points), session: clean(session), course: clean(course))
     end
 
     # Distance/duration/activity type come from the last track point (its
     # totals are cumulative for the whole session), name/type from the
     # session details — nil-safe throughout since either can be missing.
     #
-    # "active": Garmin doesn't set a session's `end` until the activity is
+    # "active": originally `session["end"].nil?`, on the assumption Garmin
-    # actually stopped, so its absence means the session is still recording
+    # doesn't set `end` until the activity actually stops — disproven
-    # — inferred from the one (already-ended) session this was built
+    # against a real still-recording session (2026-09-20): `end` was
-    # against, not verified against a session actually caught mid-activity.
+    # already non-nil, set to exactly `start + 24h`, the share link's own
+    # expiry, not an actual end time. Two signals now, both verified live
+    # against that same session:
+    #
+    # * `end` itself, once it's actually in the past — watched the same
+    #   session update it from that 24h placeholder to within a second of
+    #   the last point's own time, immediately after the activity was
+    #   saved on the watch. Authoritative and near-instant when present,
+    #   so this is checked first.
+    # * failing that (still showing the future placeholder — an abandoned
+    #   session never gets saved, so `end` never moves), recency of the
+    #   last track point: Garmin posts one roughly every
+    #   `postTrackPointFrequency` seconds (~15, observed) while genuinely
+    #   still recording, so one older than ACTIVE_WITHIN means signal was
+    #   lost a while ago (same "looks ended until it isn't" behavior
+    #   Garmin's own LiveTrack page shows in that case).
+    #
+    # Both must agree the session is live — `end` already in the past
+    # means stopped even if the last point is only seconds old (exactly
+    # the save-immediately-after-the-last-point case above).
+    ACTIVE_WITHIN = 30 * 60 # seconds
+
     def self.summarize(result)
       last = result.points.last || {}
       session = result.session || {}
@@ -56,12 +85,23 @@ module Maptool
         "activity_type" => last["activityType"],
         "distance_meters" => last["totalDistanceMeters"],
         "duration_secs" => last["totalDurationSecs"],
-        "active" => session["end"].nil?,
+        "active" => active?(last["dateTime"], session["end"]),
         "start" => session["start"],
         "end" => session["end"],
       }
     end
 
+    def self.active?(last_point_time, session_end)
+      return false unless last_point_time
+
+      now = Time.now.utc
+      return false if session_end && Time.parse(session_end) <= now
+
+      Time.parse(last_point_time) > now - ACTIVE_WITHIN
+    rescue ArgumentError, TypeError
+      false
+    end
+
     private
 
     # The RSC payload serializes an absent field as the literal string

lib/maptool/overpass_pois.rb

@@ -12,7 +12,15 @@ module Maptool
   module OverpassPois
     class FetchError < StandardError; end
 
-    OVERPASS_API = "https://overpass-api.de/api/interpreter".freeze
+    # Same three public mirrors public/js/hiking_trails.js races — tried in
+    # turn here instead, falling through to the next on any failure: the
+    # shared free instances regularly 504/429 under load, and a plugin run
+    # is a one-off click, not worth threads to race them.
+    OVERPASS_APIS = [
+      "https://overpass-api.de/api/interpreter",
+      "https://overpass.kumi.systems/api/interpreter",
+      "https://overpass.private.coffee/api/interpreter",
+    ].freeze
 
     # Each entry: an Overpass tag filter -> { label:, icon:, color: }, used
     # both to build the query (unioning every filter) and to label/style
@@ -53,8 +61,23 @@ module Maptool
     # bbox: [south, west, north, east] (Overpass's own axis order).
     def self.fetch(bbox, timeout: 60)
       query = build_query(bbox, timeout: timeout)
-      uri = URI(OVERPASS_API)
+      errors = OVERPASS_APIS.map do |url|
-      response = Net::HTTP.post_form(uri, "data" => query)
+        return post(URI(url), query, timeout)
+      rescue FetchError, Net::OpenTimeout, Net::ReadTimeout, SystemCallError, SocketError, OpenSSL::SSL::SSLError, JSON::ParserError => e
+        "#{URI(url).host}: #{e.message}"
+      end
+      raise FetchError, errors.join("; ")
+    end
+
+    def self.post(uri, query, timeout)
+      # overpass-api.de answers Net::HTTP's default "Ruby" User-Agent with
+      # a 406 (verified 2026-10-09) — any identifying UA gets through.
+      request = Net::HTTP::Post.new(uri, "User-Agent" => "maptool (Overpass camper POIs plugin)")
+      request.set_form_data("data" => query)
+      # read_timeout past the query's own [timeout:] — Net::HTTP's default
+      # 60s equals it, so a big viewport could hit Net::ReadTimeout just as
+      # Overpass was about to answer (a country-sized bbox measured ~57s).
+      response = Net::HTTP.start(uri.host, uri.port, use_ssl: true, read_timeout: timeout + 30) { |http| http.request(request) }
       raise FetchError, "unexpected response #{response.code}" unless response.is_a?(Net::HTTPSuccess)
 
       JSON.parse(response.body)

lib/maptool/plugins.rb

@@ -65,8 +65,13 @@ module Maptool
       south, west, north, east = bbox
       args = ["--south=#{south}", "--west=#{west}", "--north=#{north}", "--east=#{east}"]
 
-      stdout, _stderr, status = Open3.capture3(command, *args, chdir: plugin_dir)
+      stdout, stderr, status = Open3.capture3(command, *args, chdir: plugin_dir)
-      raise RunError, "plugin exited with status #{status.exitstatus}" unless status.success?
+      # First stderr line too — for a Ruby plugin that's the exception
+      # message (e.g. "...: unexpected response 406"), the only clue to why.
+      unless status.success?
+        reason = stderr.lines.first&.strip
+        raise RunError, ["plugin exited with status #{status.exitstatus}", reason].compact.reject(&:empty?).join(": ")
+      end
 
       geojson = JSON.parse(stdout)
       raise RunError, "plugin did not print a GeoJSON FeatureCollection" unless geojson.is_a?(Hash) && geojson["type"] == "FeatureCollection"

lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb

@@ -4,6 +4,8 @@ require "uri"
 require "json"
 require "tmpdir"
 require "fileutils"
+require "etc"
+require_relative "hiking_trails"
 
 module Maptool
   # Regenerates data/offline.pmtiles and data/terrain.pmtiles for the
@@ -87,11 +89,15 @@ module Maptool
     # archive" story via go-pmtiles, unrelated to the basemap swap.
     MAPTERHORN_MANIFEST_URL = "https://download.mapterhorn.com/download_urls.json"
     MAPTERHORN_PLANET_NAME = "planet.pmtiles"
-    # Matches the online hillshade layer's own cap (public/js/overlays.js's
+    # Deliberately *below* the online hillshade layer's own cap
-    # ONLINE_TERRAIN_TILES source, maxzoom: 15) — applied uniformly even
+    # (public/js/overlays.js's ONLINE_TERRAIN_TILES source, maxzoom: 15) —
-    # though some Mapterhorn chunks natively offer more, so the offline
+    # raster DEM tiles don't compress away like vector ones do, so every
-    # experience doesn't vary in detail from one region to the next.
+    # extra zoom level roughly quadruples storage. z13 is each regional
-    TERRAIN_MAX_ZOOM = 15
+    # chunk's own native minzoom (see the comment above), so this is the
+    # cheapest useful cut: one raster level per chunk, not a 15-13=2-level
+    # pyramid on top of it. Bumped into a 181GB terrain.pmtiles for a
+    # 5-country selection before this was lowered — see docs/development.adoc.
+    TERRAIN_MAX_ZOOM = 13
 
     OFFLINE_STATUS = { state: "idle" }
     TERRAIN_STATUS = { state: "idle" }
@@ -179,17 +185,21 @@ module Maptool
     # finishes — raises BuildError (the caller turns this into an error
     # response) if nothing's selected yet, or one's already running.
     #
-    # download_extract exists as an injectable seam so tests can exercise
+    # download_extract/fetch_last_modified exist as injectable seams so
-    # the rest of this (scratch dir, osmium/planetiler invocation, atomic
+    # tests can exercise the rest of this (scratch dir, osmium/planetiler
-    # rename) without a real network call — same reasoning test_helper.rb
+    # invocation, atomic rename, the per-country cache below) without a
-    # already gives for keeping /api/plugins route tests off the real
+    # real network call — same reasoning test_helper.rb already gives for
-    # Overpass API.
+    # keeping /api/plugins route tests off the real Overpass API.
-    def self.build_offline(data_dir:, download_extract: method(:download_extract))
+    def self.build_offline(data_dir:, download_extract: method(:download_extract), fetch_last_modified: method(:fetch_geofabrik_last_modified))
       codes = selected_regions(data_dir)
       raise BuildError, "select at least one region first" if codes.empty?
 
       begin_run!(OFFLINE_MUTEX, OFFLINE_STATUS)
-      Thread.new { run_job(OFFLINE_MUTEX, OFFLINE_STATUS) { extract_offline(codes, data_dir, download_extract) } }
+      Thread.new do
+        run_job(OFFLINE_MUTEX, OFFLINE_STATUS) do |report_step|
+          extract_offline(codes, data_dir, download_extract, fetch_last_modified, report_step)
+        end
+      end
     end
 
     # fetch_manifest: same injectable-seam reasoning as download_extract
@@ -199,7 +209,11 @@ module Maptool
       raise BuildError, "select at least one region first" if codes.empty?
 
       begin_run!(TERRAIN_MUTEX, TERRAIN_STATUS)
-      Thread.new { run_job(TERRAIN_MUTEX, TERRAIN_STATUS) { build_terrain_pmtiles(codes, data_dir, fetch_manifest) } }
+      Thread.new do
+        run_job(TERRAIN_MUTEX, TERRAIN_STATUS) do |report_step|
+          build_terrain_pmtiles(codes, data_dir, fetch_manifest, report_step)
+        end
+      end
     end
 
     def self.begin_run!(mutex, status)
@@ -210,11 +224,19 @@ module Maptool
     end
     private_class_method :begin_run!
 
+    # Yields a report_step proc the build can call with a short
+    # human-readable description of what it's doing right now ("downloading
+    # SK (1/2)", "tiling with planetiler", ...) — surfaced as status[:step]
+    # so GET .../build-status can show progress beyond just "running since
+    # X" (see docs/development.adoc).
     def self.run_job(mutex, status)
-      yield
+      report_step = ->(text) { mutex.synchronize { status[:step] = text } }
+      yield report_step
       mutex.synchronize { status.merge!(state: "done", finished_at: Time.now.utc.iso8601).delete(:message) }
     rescue => e
       mutex.synchronize { status.merge!(state: "error", finished_at: Time.now.utc.iso8601, message: e.message) }
+    ensure
+      mutex.synchronize { status.delete(:step) }
     end
     private_class_method :run_job
 
@@ -228,50 +250,190 @@ module Maptool
     # tiles.openfreemap.org's Liberty style already expects, so
     # public/js/map.js's offlineStyle() can reuse ONLINE_STYLE_PATCH
     # unchanged instead of a separate protomaps-themes-base palette.
-    def self.extract_offline(codes, data_dir, download_extract)
+    def self.extract_offline(codes, data_dir, download_extract, fetch_last_modified, report_step)
       scratch_dir = Dir.mktmpdir("maptool-offline")
-      sources = codes.map do |code|
+      sources = codes.each_with_index.map do |code, i|
         slug = GEOFABRIK_SLUGS.fetch(code) { raise BuildError, "no Geofabrik source known for region #{code}" }
-        dest = File.join(scratch_dir, "#{code}.osm.pbf")
+        report_step.call(progress_step("fetching #{code}", codes, i))
-        last_modified = download_extract.call(geofabrik_url(slug), dest)
+        cached_extract(code, slug, data_dir, download_extract, fetch_last_modified)
-        { "code" => code, "slug" => slug, "last_modified" => last_modified, "path" => dest }
       end
 
       osm_path =
         if sources.size == 1
           sources.first["path"]
         else
+          report_step.call("merging with osmium")
           merged_path = File.join(scratch_dir, "merged.osm.pbf")
           run_osmium!("merge", *sources.map { |s| s["path"] }, "-o", merged_path)
           merged_path
         end
 
-      tmp_path = File.join(data_dir, "offline.pmtiles.tmp")
+      report_step.call("tiling with planetiler")
-      run_planetiler!("--osm-path=#{osm_path}", "--output=#{tmp_path}")
+      # .tmp.pmtiles, not .pmtiles.tmp — Planetiler picks its output archive
+      # format (pmtiles vs mbtiles) from the file extension, so a ".tmp"
+      # suffix made it fail with "Unsupported format tmp" instead of
+      # actually tiling anything.
+      tmp_path = File.join(data_dir, "offline.tmp.pmtiles")
+      # --download: the OpenMapTiles profile also needs a few small auxiliary
+      # sources (water polygons, Natural Earth, lake centerlines) alongside
+      # the OSM extract itself — without this flag Planetiler expects them
+      # to already exist on disk and fails instead of fetching them. They
+      # land under Planetiler's own default "data/sources/", relative to
+      # this process's working directory (the app root, so in practice
+      # that's data_dir's own "sources" subdirectory) — fetched once,
+      # reused by every later build.
+      # --threads: Planetiler's own core-count autodetection can come up
+      # short in a container (cgroup/JVM detection quirks vary by runtime),
+      # leaving most of a many-core host idle — Etc.nprocessors asks the
+      # OS directly (sched_getaffinity on Linux), which correctly reflects
+      # whatever's actually usable by this process even under a container.
+      run_planetiler!("--osm-path=#{osm_path}", "--output=#{tmp_path}", "--download", "--threads=#{Etc.nprocessors}")
       File.rename(tmp_path, File.join(data_dir, "offline.pmtiles"))
       File.write(offline_meta_path(data_dir), JSON.generate(sources: sources.map { |s| s.slice("code", "slug", "last_modified") }))
+
+      report_step.call("extracting hiking trails")
+      extract_hiking_trails(sources, data_dir)
     ensure
       FileUtils.remove_entry(scratch_dir) if scratch_dir && Dir.exist?(scratch_dir)
       File.delete(tmp_path) if tmp_path && File.exist?(tmp_path)
     end
     private_class_method :extract_offline
 
+    # One GeoJSON per country (data/hiking_trails/<CODE>.geojson), not one
+    # merged file — the frontend only ever needs to show a country at a
+    # time the viewer actually picks (see HikingTrailsControl's country
+    # checklist), and a combined multi-country file was needlessly making
+    # every viewer fetch every selected country's trails regardless.
+    #
+    # Runs over the same per-country .osm.pbf files `sources` above already
+    # downloaded/cached for offline.pmtiles itself — no separate download.
+    # Cached the same way geofabrik_cache is: skipped for a country whose
+    # extract is already newer than its source .osm.pbf, so growing the
+    # region selection by one country only extracts that one, not every
+    # already-covered country all over again.
+    #
+    # Best-effort per country: an extraction problem (a malformed PBF
+    # region, an osmium hiccup) shouldn't fail the whole offline.pmtiles
+    # build, or even the other countries in this same selection, over
+    # what's a bonus overlay, not the core map.
+    def self.extract_hiking_trails(sources, data_dir)
+      FileUtils.mkdir_p(hiking_trails_dir(data_dir))
+      sources.each do |source|
+        out_path = hiking_trails_country_path(data_dir, source["code"])
+        next if File.exist?(out_path) && File.mtime(out_path) >= File.mtime(source["path"])
+
+        tmp_path = "#{out_path}.tmp"
+        begin
+          File.write(tmp_path, JSON.generate(HikingTrails.extract(source["path"])))
+          File.rename(tmp_path, out_path)
+        rescue HikingTrails::ExtractError => e
+          File.delete(tmp_path) if File.exist?(tmp_path)
+          warn "hiking trails extraction failed for #{source["code"]}, skipping: #{e.message}"
+        end
+      end
+    end
+    private_class_method :extract_hiking_trails
+
+    def self.hiking_trails_dir(data_dir)
+      File.join(data_dir, "hiking_trails")
+    end
+
+    def self.hiking_trails_country_path(data_dir, code)
+      File.join(hiking_trails_dir(data_dir), "#{code}.geojson")
+    end
+
+    # Country codes with an already-extracted offline hiking-trails file,
+    # sorted — not necessarily the same as the *current* region selection
+    # (accumulates like geofabrik_cache does; a country deselected after
+    # being built once is left alone rather than swept up here).
+    def self.hiking_trails_countries(data_dir)
+      Dir.glob(File.join(hiking_trails_dir(data_dir), "*.geojson")).map { |path| File.basename(path, ".geojson") }.sort
+    end
+
+    # Renders a report_step string like "fetching PL (3/4) — done: SK, CZ —
+    # pending: HU" — so GET .../build-status shows not just "it's running"
+    # but which of the current build's sources is in flight and which are
+    # already behind/ahead of it.
+    def self.progress_step(action, labels, index)
+      done = labels[0...index]
+      pending = labels[(index + 1)..] || []
+      parts = ["#{action} (#{index + 1}/#{labels.size})"]
+      parts << "done: #{done.join(", ")}" unless done.empty?
+      parts << "pending: #{pending.join(", ")}" unless pending.empty?
+      parts.join(" — ")
+    end
+    private_class_method :progress_step
+
     def self.geofabrik_url(slug)
       "https://download.geofabrik.de/#{slug}-latest.osm.pbf"
     end
     private_class_method :geofabrik_url
 
-    # Real network implementation of the download_extract seam above —
+    # Per-country .osm.pbf cache, kept across builds under data_dir (not
-    # streams the extract to dest and returns its Last-Modified header
+    # scratch_dir, which is wiped every run) — changing the region
-    # (free off the same GET, no separate HEAD needed) for the sidecar
+    # selection re-downloads only the countries that are new to it, and
-    # meta / update-check below.
+    # re-running the same selection re-downloads nothing unless Geofabrik's
-    def self.download_extract(url, dest)
+    # own Last-Modified for that country moved on. A stamp file next to
-      uri = URI(url)
+    # each cached extract records the Last-Modified it was fetched with;
-      response = Net::HTTP.start(uri.host, uri.port, use_ssl: uri.scheme == "https") { |http| http.get(uri) }
+    # a HEAD check (cheap) decides whether the multi-GB GET (not cheap) is
-      raise BuildError, "could not download #{url} (HTTP #{response.code})" unless response.is_a?(Net::HTTPSuccess)
+    # skippable.
+    def self.cached_extract(code, slug, data_dir, download_extract, fetch_last_modified)
+      cache_dir = geofabrik_cache_dir(data_dir)
+      FileUtils.mkdir_p(cache_dir)
+      path = File.join(cache_dir, "#{code}.osm.pbf")
+      stamp_path = "#{path}.last_modified"
+      url = geofabrik_url(slug)
 
-      File.binwrite(dest, response.body)
+      if File.exist?(path) && File.exist?(stamp_path)
-      response["last-modified"]
+        current = begin
+          fetch_last_modified.call(url)
+        rescue BuildError
+          nil
+        end
+        return { "code" => code, "slug" => slug, "last_modified" => current, "path" => path } if current && current == File.read(stamp_path)
+      end
+
+      last_modified = download_extract.call(url, path)
+      File.write(stamp_path, last_modified.to_s)
+      { "code" => code, "slug" => slug, "last_modified" => last_modified, "path" => path }
+    end
+    private_class_method :cached_extract
+
+    def self.geofabrik_cache_dir(data_dir)
+      File.join(data_dir, "geofabrik_cache")
+    end
+    private_class_method :geofabrik_cache_dir
+
+    # Real network implementation of the download_extract seam above —
+    # streams the extract to dest (some of these are multi-GB — Net::HTTP's
+    # plain #get buffers the whole response body in memory first, which
+    # read_body's block form avoids) and returns its Last-Modified header
+    # (free off the same GET, no separate HEAD needed) for the sidecar
+    # meta / update-check below. Geofabrik 302s (e.g. .../europe/austria
+    # redirecting to wherever actually serves it) — followed manually
+    # since request_get's block form doesn't do this itself.
+    def self.download_extract(url, dest, limit: 5)
+      raise BuildError, "too many redirects downloading #{url}" if limit.zero?
+
+      uri = URI(url)
+      last_modified = nil
+      redirect_to = nil
+      Net::HTTP.start(uri.host, uri.port, use_ssl: uri.scheme == "https") do |http|
+        http.request_get(uri) do |response|
+          case response
+          when Net::HTTPSuccess
+            last_modified = response["last-modified"]
+            File.open(dest, "wb") { |file| response.read_body { |chunk| file.write(chunk) } }
+          when Net::HTTPRedirection
+            redirect_to = URI.join(url, response["location"]).to_s
+          else
+            raise BuildError, "could not download #{url} (HTTP #{response.code})"
+          end
+        end
+      end
+      return download_extract(redirect_to, dest, limit: limit - 1) if redirect_to
+
+      last_modified
     end
 
     # Sidecar recording which Geofabrik sources (country code, slug, and
@@ -309,12 +471,16 @@ module Maptool
       nil
     end
 
-    def self.fetch_geofabrik_last_modified(url)
+    def self.fetch_geofabrik_last_modified(url, limit: 5)
+      raise BuildError, "too many redirects reaching #{url}" if limit.zero?
+
       uri = URI(url)
       response = Net::HTTP.start(uri.host, uri.port, use_ssl: uri.scheme == "https") { |http| http.head(uri) }
-      raise BuildError, "could not reach #{url}" unless response.is_a?(Net::HTTPSuccess)
+      case response
-
+      when Net::HTTPSuccess then response["last-modified"]
-      response["last-modified"]
+      when Net::HTTPRedirection then fetch_geofabrik_last_modified(URI.join(url, response["location"]).to_s, limit: limit - 1)
+      else raise BuildError, "could not reach #{url}"
+      end
     end
 
     def self.offline_meta_path(data_dir)
@@ -322,6 +488,52 @@ module Maptool
     end
     private_class_method :offline_meta_path
 
+    # Deletes offline.pmtiles, its sidecar meta, and the whole per-country
+    # download cache (data/geofabrik_cache/) — "start over" for the offline
+    # basemap. The current selection (data/offline_regions.json) is left
+    # alone, so a following build just re-downloads it fresh.
+    def self.delete_offline_data(data_dir)
+      OFFLINE_MUTEX.synchronize { raise BuildError, "a build is already running" if OFFLINE_STATUS[:state] == "running" }
+
+      File.delete(File.join(data_dir, "offline.pmtiles")) if File.exist?(File.join(data_dir, "offline.pmtiles"))
+      File.delete(offline_meta_path(data_dir)) if File.exist?(offline_meta_path(data_dir))
+      FileUtils.remove_entry(hiking_trails_dir(data_dir)) if Dir.exist?(hiking_trails_dir(data_dir))
+      cache_dir = geofabrik_cache_dir(data_dir)
+      FileUtils.remove_entry(cache_dir) if Dir.exist?(cache_dir)
+    end
+
+    # Deletes just one country's cached .osm.pbf (and its Last-Modified
+    # stamp) — e.g. to force a fresh download without touching the others,
+    # or to reclaim space for a country no longer selected.
+    def self.delete_cached_extract(data_dir, code)
+      OFFLINE_MUTEX.synchronize { raise BuildError, "a build is already running" if OFFLINE_STATUS[:state] == "running" }
+
+      cache_dir = geofabrik_cache_dir(data_dir)
+      path = File.join(cache_dir, "#{code}.osm.pbf")
+      File.delete(path) if File.exist?(path)
+      File.delete("#{path}.last_modified") if File.exist?("#{path}.last_modified")
+    end
+
+    # What's actually sitting in the per-country download cache right now —
+    # not the same thing as offline_meta's "sources", which only reflects
+    # whatever the *last successful build* used. A country can be cached
+    # without ever having been built (selected, then deselected again
+    # before Apply) or built from without still being selected, and this is
+    # what lets the region picker show/clear either case.
+    def self.cached_extracts(data_dir)
+      cache_dir = geofabrik_cache_dir(data_dir)
+      return [] unless Dir.exist?(cache_dir)
+
+      Dir.glob(File.join(cache_dir, "*.osm.pbf")).map do |path|
+        stamp_path = "#{path}.last_modified"
+        {
+          "code" => File.basename(path, ".osm.pbf"),
+          "size" => File.size(path),
+          "last_modified" => File.exist?(stamp_path) ? File.read(stamp_path) : nil,
+        }
+      end.sort_by { |s| s["code"] }
+    end
+
     # --- terrain.pmtiles ---
 
     # planet.pmtiles (z0-12, always) plus whichever regional chunks
@@ -338,7 +550,8 @@ module Maptool
     # border tiles (extraction copies whole tiles, it doesn't clip vector
     # content to the polygon) — so this always does one extract per
     # *source archive*, never one per country.
-    def self.build_terrain_pmtiles(codes, data_dir, fetch_manifest)
+    def self.build_terrain_pmtiles(codes, data_dir, fetch_manifest, report_step)
+      report_step.call("fetching mapterhorn manifest")
       items = fetch_manifest.call
       planet = items.find { |item| item["name"] == MAPTERHORN_PLANET_NAME }
       raise BuildError, "mapterhorn manifest is missing #{MAPTERHORN_PLANET_NAME}" unless planet
@@ -351,16 +564,33 @@ module Maptool
 
       chunks = items.select { |item| item["name"] != MAPTERHORN_PLANET_NAME && bbox_intersects?(item, south, west, north, east) }
 
-      tmp_path = File.join(data_dir, "terrain.pmtiles.tmp")
+      # .tmp.pmtiles, not .pmtiles.tmp — same reasoning as offline.pmtiles'
-      extracts = [planet, *chunks].each_with_index.map do |item, i|
+      # own tmp_path above, in case go-pmtiles also derives format from
+      # the extension for its "merge" output.
+      tmp_path = File.join(data_dir, "terrain.tmp.pmtiles")
+      sources = [planet, *chunks]
+      labels = sources.map { |item| item["name"] }
+      extracts = sources.each_with_index.map do |item, i|
+        report_step.call(progress_step("extracting #{item["name"]}", labels, i))
         extract_path = File.join(scratch_dir, "extract-#{i}.pmtiles")
-        run_pmtiles!("extract", item["url"], extract_path, "--region=#{region_path}", "--maxzoom=#{TERRAIN_MAX_ZOOM}")
+        # --overfetch=0: go-pmtiles' default (0.05) merges nearby byte
+        # ranges into fewer, bigger HTTP requests to save round-trips —
+        # for planet.pmtiles (global z0-12, tens of GB) covering a
+        # multi-country selection that collapsed the whole extract into
+        # a *single* ~60GB request, which then had no way to resume after
+        # an HTTP/2 stream reset 11 minutes in (see the "died again"
+        # 2026-09-12 build). Disabling merging trades that one fragile,
+        # unresumable mega-request for many small ones spread over
+        # --download-threads (default 4) — slower on a clean run, but no
+        # longer one dropped stream away from losing 20 minutes of transfer.
+        run_pmtiles!("extract", item["url"], extract_path, "--region=#{region_path}", "--maxzoom=#{TERRAIN_MAX_ZOOM}", "--overfetch=0")
         extract_path
       end
 
       if extracts.size == 1
         File.rename(extracts.first, tmp_path)
       else
+        report_step.call("merging with pmtiles")
         run_pmtiles!("merge", *extracts, tmp_path)
       end
       File.rename(tmp_path, File.join(data_dir, "terrain.pmtiles"))
@@ -423,6 +653,17 @@ module Maptool
     end
     private_class_method :terrain_meta_path
 
+    # Deletes terrain.pmtiles and its sidecar meta — same "start over"
+    # reasoning as delete_offline_data above. No download cache to clean up
+    # here: terrain.pmtiles' pmtiles-extract step reads its sources over
+    # HTTP range requests rather than downloading a whole archive first.
+    def self.delete_terrain_data(data_dir)
+      TERRAIN_MUTEX.synchronize { raise BuildError, "a build is already running" if TERRAIN_STATUS[:state] == "running" }
+
+      File.delete(File.join(data_dir, "terrain.pmtiles")) if File.exist?(File.join(data_dir, "terrain.pmtiles"))
+      File.delete(terrain_meta_path(data_dir)) if File.exist?(terrain_meta_path(data_dir))
+    end
+
     # --- shared ---
 
     def self.read_json(path)
@@ -450,25 +691,52 @@ module Maptool
       ENV.fetch("PLANETILER_JAR", "/usr/local/lib/planetiler.jar")
     end
 
-    def self.run_pmtiles!(*args)
+    # go-pmtiles' extract logs one progress line per chunk fetched
-      _stdout, stderr, status = Open3.capture3(pmtiles_bin, *args)
+    # ("fetching N dirs, M chunks, K requests") — fine on a terminal where
-      raise BuildError, "pmtiles exited with status #{status.exitstatus}: #{stderr.strip}" unless status.success?
+    # it overwrites itself, but captured non-interactively that's one line
+    # per chunk, easily hundreds of thousands of characters for a big
+    # region. The actual failure is always at the end, so keep only the
+    # tail — same story for osmium/planetiler's own chatty stdout.
+    OUTPUT_TAIL_LINES = 40
+
+    # Some CLI tools (go-pmtiles included) write their actual error to
+    # stdout rather than stderr — combine both rather than risk raising a
+    # BuildError with nothing useful in it.
+    def self.command_output(stdout, stderr)
+      lines = [stdout, stderr].map(&:strip).reject(&:empty?).join("\n").lines
+      return lines.join if lines.size <= OUTPUT_TAIL_LINES
+
+      omitted = lines.size - OUTPUT_TAIL_LINES
+      "(#{omitted} earlier lines omitted)\n#{lines.last(OUTPUT_TAIL_LINES).join}"
+    end
+    private_class_method :command_output
+
+    # extract/merge stream tens of GB over HTTP range requests; retry a
+    # transient failure (e.g. a mid-transfer HTTP/2 stream reset from the
+    # remote) a couple times before giving up, rather than forcing a full
+    # re-download on every hiccup.
+    def self.run_pmtiles!(*args, attempts: 3)
+      attempts.times do |i|
+        stdout, stderr, status = Open3.capture3(pmtiles_bin, *args)
+        return if status.success?
+        raise BuildError, "pmtiles exited with status #{status.exitstatus}: #{command_output(stdout, stderr)}" if i == attempts - 1
+      end
     rescue Errno::ENOENT, Errno::EACCES => e
       raise BuildError, "could not run '#{pmtiles_bin}' (#{e.message}) — is go-pmtiles installed and on PATH? See docs/development.adoc."
     end
     private_class_method :run_pmtiles!
 
     def self.run_osmium!(*args)
-      _stdout, stderr, status = Open3.capture3(osmium_bin, *args)
+      stdout, stderr, status = Open3.capture3(osmium_bin, *args)
-      raise BuildError, "osmium exited with status #{status.exitstatus}: #{stderr.strip}" unless status.success?
+      raise BuildError, "osmium exited with status #{status.exitstatus}: #{command_output(stdout, stderr)}" unless status.success?
     rescue Errno::ENOENT, Errno::EACCES => e
       raise BuildError, "could not run '#{osmium_bin}' (#{e.message}) — is osmium-tool installed and on PATH? See docs/development.adoc."
     end
     private_class_method :run_osmium!
 
     def self.run_planetiler!(*args)
-      _stdout, stderr, status = Open3.capture3(java_bin, "-jar", planetiler_jar, *args)
+      stdout, stderr, status = Open3.capture3(java_bin, "-jar", planetiler_jar, *args)
-      raise BuildError, "planetiler exited with status #{status.exitstatus}: #{stderr.strip}" unless status.success?
+      raise BuildError, "planetiler exited with status #{status.exitstatus}: #{command_output(stdout, stderr)}" unless status.success?
     rescue Errno::ENOENT, Errno::EACCES => e
       raise BuildError, "could not run '#{java_bin} -jar #{planetiler_jar}' (#{e.message}) — is Java and planetiler.jar installed? See docs/development.adoc."
     end

public/css/style.css

@@ -397,6 +397,68 @@ html, body {
   visibility: visible;
 }
 
+/* Docked detail panel for a clicked hiking trail — replaces a map-anchored
+   Popup (which routinely covered up the very trail line it described) with
+   a fixed side panel, same "click info moves off the map" idea
+   track_profile.js already established for clicking a GPX track line
+   (TrackProfilePanel). .trail-panel__body gets the exact padding
+   .maplibregl-popup-content used (15px 10px) so routeHtml()'s own output —
+   built for that popup, including its header's canceling negative margin —
+   renders here unchanged; no separate panel-flavored template needed. */
+.trail-panel {
+  position: fixed;
+  top: 0;
+  right: 0;
+  bottom: 0;
+  width: 300px;
+  max-width: 90vw;
+  background: #fff;
+  border-left: 1px solid #ddd;
+  box-shadow: -2px 0 8px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.15);
+  z-index: 10;
+}
+
+.trail-panel__body {
+  height: 100%;
+  box-sizing: border-box;
+  overflow-y: auto;
+  padding: 15px 10px;
+  font-size: 13px;
+}
+
+.trail-panel__close {
+  position: absolute;
+  top: 6px;
+  right: 6px;
+  border: none;
+  border-radius: 50%;
+  background: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.85);
+  font-size: 18px;
+  line-height: 1;
+  padding: 2px 7px;
+  cursor: pointer;
+}
+
+/* First breakpoint in this file. Below it the same panel docks to the
+   bottom edge instead of the right one — a fixed-width side panel would
+   otherwise eat most of a phone-width map, the exact "popup dominates the
+   screen" problem this panel was meant to fix in the first place. */
+@media (max-width: 640px) {
+  .trail-panel {
+    top: auto;
+    left: 0;
+    right: 0;
+    bottom: 0;
+    width: auto;
+    max-width: none;
+    max-height: 50vh;
+    border-left: none;
+    border-top: 1px solid #ddd;
+    border-radius: 8px 8px 0 0;
+    box-shadow: 0 -2px 8px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.15);
+  }
+}
+
 .offline-data-panel__body {
   padding: 8px 12px;
 }
@@ -416,11 +478,20 @@ html, body {
   border-radius: 4px;
 }
 
+.offline-data-panel__region-list li {
+  display: flex;
+  align-items: center;
+  justify-content: space-between;
+  gap: 6px;
+}
+
 .offline-data-panel__region-list label {
   display: flex;
   align-items: center;
   gap: 6px;
   padding: 4px 8px;
+  min-width: 0;
+  flex: 1;
   cursor: pointer;
 }
 
@@ -428,6 +499,34 @@ html, body {
   background: #f0f0f0;
 }
 
+.offline-data-panel__cache-info {
+  display: flex;
+  align-items: center;
+  gap: 4px;
+  padding-right: 8px;
+  color: #888;
+  font-size: 11px;
+  white-space: nowrap;
+}
+
+.offline-data-panel__cache-delete {
+  border: none;
+  background: none;
+  padding: 0 2px;
+  color: #a33;
+  font-size: 11px;
+  cursor: pointer;
+}
+
+.offline-data-panel__cache-delete:hover {
+  text-decoration: underline;
+}
+
+.offline-data-panel__cache-delete:disabled {
+  opacity: 0.5;
+  cursor: default;
+}
+
 /* Same rounded-square badge ratio as icons.js's own MAP_MARKER_ICON
    (rx 5 of a 22-wide square) — a consistent frame rather than however
    each flag's own artwork happens to fill an unbordered square. */
@@ -472,12 +571,47 @@ html, body {
   border-top: 1px solid #eee;
 }
 
+.offline-data-panel__row-head {
+  display: flex;
+  align-items: center;
+  justify-content: space-between;
+  gap: 8px;
+}
+
+.offline-data-panel__delete {
+  border: 1px solid #ccc;
+  border-radius: 4px;
+  background: #fff;
+  padding: 2px 8px;
+  font: inherit;
+  font-size: 11px;
+  color: #a33;
+  cursor: pointer;
+}
+
+.offline-data-panel__delete:hover {
+  background: #fdecec;
+}
+
+.offline-data-panel__delete:disabled {
+  opacity: 0.5;
+  cursor: default;
+}
+
 .offline-data-panel__status {
   margin: 6px 0 0;
   color: #666;
   font-size: 12px;
 }
 
+.offline-data-panel__status--error {
+  white-space: pre-wrap;
+  word-break: break-word;
+  max-height: 200px;
+  overflow-y: auto;
+  color: #b3261e;
+}
+
 .offline-data-panel__update-badge {
   color: #b8860b;
 }
@@ -1260,6 +1394,17 @@ html, body {
   user-select: none;
 }
 
+.pitch-toggle-ctrl__button {
+  width: 29px;
+  height: 29px;
+  font-size: 11px;
+  font-weight: 600;
+}
+
+.pitch-toggle-ctrl__button.active {
+  background: #dbe9ff;
+}
+
 .gpx-popup__header {
   display: flex;
   align-items: center;
@@ -1271,6 +1416,14 @@ html, body {
   color: #fff;
 }
 
+.hiking-trail-popup__swatch {
+  flex-shrink: 0;
+  width: 14px;
+  height: 14px;
+  border-radius: 50%;
+  border: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.6);
+}
+
 .gpx-popup__header-icon {
   flex-shrink: 0;
   width: 18px;
@@ -1488,6 +1641,22 @@ html, body {
   font-size: 12px;
 }
 
+.hiking-trail-countries {
+  display: flex;
+  flex-wrap: wrap;
+  gap: 4px 12px;
+  list-style: none;
+  margin: 0;
+  padding: 0;
+}
+
+.hiking-trail-countries__item label {
+  display: flex;
+  align-items: center;
+  gap: 4px;
+  cursor: pointer;
+}
+
 .livetrack-panel__list {
   flex: 1;
   overflow-y: auto;

public/js/hiking_trails.js

@@ -0,0 +1,442 @@
+import { WALKING_ICON } from "/js/icons.js";
+import { firstSymbolLayerId } from "/js/radar.js";
+import { escapeHtml } from "/js/gpx.js";
+import { lineLength, formatDistance } from "/js/measure.js";
+import { buildLineGraph, orderLanesAsync, LaneLayer } from "/vendor/maplibre-gl-lanes/maplibre-gl-lanes.mjs";
+
+// Overpass has permissive CORS (verified: Access-Control-Allow-Origin: *),
+// so this queries it directly from the browser — no server-side proxy
+// needed, same "public API, no key" story as the Nominatim search already
+// hits from here. One query per click (not per pan/move like the
+// Wikipedia layer's live refetch), so this stays well within Overpass's
+// shared rate limits.
+//
+// Three independent public mirrors (also CORS-open, verified), raced with
+// Promise.any rather than called one at a time — the shared free instances
+// vary a lot in load from one moment to the next, and a multi-second wait
+// on a single one was the main complaint. Whichever answers first wins;
+// the others are simply left to finish and get GC'd, not worth the extra
+// AbortController plumbing for a single one-off per-click request.
+const OVERPASS_APIS = [
+  "https://overpass-api.de/api/interpreter",
+  "https://overpass.kumi.systems/api/interpreter",
+  "https://overpass.private.coffee/api/interpreter",
+];
+const CLICK_RADIUS_M = 40;
+// OSM colour tag values are free text (untrusted) — only used as a CSS
+// background if they look like an actual color (hex or a plain word),
+// never interpolated unchecked into a style attribute.
+const SAFE_COLOR = /^(#[0-9a-fA-F]{3,8}|[a-zA-Z]+)$/;
+
+// Pre-rendered raster tiles, not vector — waymarkedtrails.org already
+// colors each route by its OSM `colour` tag (the KST/KČT-style paint-blaze
+// colors used in Slovakia/Czechia), falling back to plain red where a route
+// has none, so there's no styling to do here ourselves. Used whenever no
+// offline extract is available at all — same "quietly renders nothing
+// without a network" story as the Wikipedia/Radar/Contour lines overlays.
+const ONLINE_SOURCE_ID = "hiking-trails-online";
+const ONLINE_LAYER_ID = "hiking-trails-online-line";
+const TILE_URL = "https://tile.waymarkedtrails.org/hiking/{z}/{x}/{y}.png";
+const ATTRIBUTION =
+  'Trails &copy; <a href="https://waymarkedtrails.org" target="_blank">Waymarked Trails</a> (CC-BY-SA), map data &copy; OpenStreetMap contributors';
+const OPACITY = 0.85;
+
+// Offline: real vector trails for each country the viewer actually picks,
+// GeoJSON generated at build time by Maptool::HikingTrails straight
+// from the same Geofabrik .osm.pbf offline.pmtiles itself is built from
+// (see lib/maptool/hiking_trails.rb, PmtilesBuilder.extract_hiking_trails)
+// — no network needed, and no waiting on Overpass for click details either
+// (hit-tested locally via LaneLayer.queryLane instead, see _handleClick
+// below). One file per country rather than one combined file: a viewer
+// covering a dozen countries' worth of offline map data rarely wants all
+// of their hiking trails loaded at once, so this is opt-in per country
+// instead.
+//
+// Drawn with maplibre-gl-lanes rather than a plain line layer: a stretch
+// of path several marked routes share (very common with KST blazes) is
+// otherwise one line drawn over and over, only the topmost color visible.
+// Lanes puts each route in its own parallel lane instead. It needs routes
+// sharing a path to share exact vertices, which OSM relations over shared
+// ways already do. One LaneLayer over every picked country, not one per
+// country, so lanes at a border stay ordered together. Doesn't drape over
+// 3D terrain (sinks under raised ground, warns on the console) — a known
+// limitation of the library, not worth working around for an overlay.
+const LANES_LAYER_ID = "hiking-trails-lanes";
+const LANE_SIZES = () => ({ spacing: 3.5, width: 3, casingWidth: 0.5 });
+function offlineUrl(code) {
+  return `/tiles/hiking_trails/${code}.geojson`;
+}
+
+// waymarkedtrails.org's own fallback for an untagged route.
+const DEFAULT_TRAIL_COLOR = "#c1272d";
+// Real-world `colour` values seen in production data (see the 2026-09-13
+// extraction against SK.osm.pbf) — anything outside this set (typos like
+// "yelllow", multi-value combos like "blue, yellow", stray hex codes) falls
+// back to DEFAULT_TRAIL_COLOR rather than being trusted as a CSS value
+// straight from OSM tag text.
+const KNOWN_TRAIL_COLORS = new Set(["red", "yellow", "blue", "green", "orange", "purple", "brown", "black", "white", "grey", "gray", "darkblue"]);
+
+function normalizedTrailColor(raw) {
+  if (!raw) return DEFAULT_TRAIL_COLOR;
+  const trimmed = raw.trim();
+  if (KNOWN_TRAIL_COLORS.has(trimmed.toLowerCase())) return trimmed.toLowerCase();
+  return /^#[0-9a-fA-F]{3,8}$/.test(trimmed) ? trimmed : DEFAULT_TRAIL_COLOR;
+}
+
+// Online mode's highlight outline for whichever route(s) the last click
+// matched — drawn as its own separate source/layer (real geometry, from the
+// Overpass response), since the raster tiles have no paintable features to
+// highlight at all. Offline lanes use LaneLayer.setHighlight instead. Same "yellow outline on a picked
+// route" treatment the earlier SVG prototype visualization used.
+const HIGHLIGHT_SOURCE_ID = "hiking-trails-highlight";
+const HIGHLIGHT_LAYER_ID = "hiking-trails-highlight-line";
+
+// An Overlays panel item — a plain on/off checkbox (raster overlay) until
+// offline extracts exist for at least one country, at which point it
+// becomes an expandable per-country checklist instead (same expand shape
+// as RadarControl), since a viewer with a dozen countries' worth of
+// offline map data rarely wants all of their hiking trails loaded, let
+// alone parsed by the browser, at once.
+export class HikingTrailsControl {
+  constructor(map) {
+    this._map = map;
+    this._active = false; // the online-mode checkbox's own state
+    this._offlineCountries = []; // codes with an extract available on the server
+    this._selectedCountries = new Set(); // codes currently shown, offline mode
+    this._trailData = new Map(); // code -> fetched GeoJSON, kept across toggles/style swaps
+    this._routeInfo = new Map(); // String(relation id) -> feature properties, for the panel
+    this._lanes = null; // the current LaneLayer, null when no country is shown
+
+    map.on("click", (event) => this._handleClick(event));
+
+    this._panel = document.getElementById("trail-panel");
+    this._panelBody = this._panel.querySelector(".trail-panel__body");
+    this._panel.querySelector(".trail-panel__close").addEventListener("click", () => this._hidePanel());
+
+    // setStyle() (switching Online/Offline) tears down all custom sources/
+    // layers — put whatever was showing back, same as every other
+    // Overlays control. The highlight is transient (tied to whichever
+    // trail is showing in the panel, if any) — simpler to just drop it
+    // here than try to carry it across a style swap.
+    map.on("style.load", () => {
+      if (this._active) this._addOnlineLayer();
+      this._clearHighlight();
+      if (this._selectedCountries.size > 0) this._rebuildLanes();
+    });
+  }
+
+  mount(li) {
+    li.innerHTML = `
+      <div class="overlays-panel__row">
+        <input type="checkbox" class="overlays-panel__toggle">
+        <span class="overlays-panel__icon">${WALKING_ICON}</span>
+        <button type="button" class="overlays-panel__name">Hiking trails</button>
+      </div>
+      <div class="overlays-panel__details" hidden>
+        <ul class="hiking-trail-countries"></ul>
+      </div>
+    `;
+    this._checkbox = li.querySelector(".overlays-panel__toggle");
+    this._nameButton = li.querySelector(".overlays-panel__name");
+    this._details = li.querySelector(".overlays-panel__details");
+    this._countryList = li.querySelector(".hiking-trail-countries");
+
+    this._checkbox.addEventListener("change", (event) => this._toggleOnline(event.target.checked));
+    this._nameButton.addEventListener("click", () => {
+      if (this._offlineCountries.length === 0) return; // nothing to expand into yet
+      const expanding = this._details.hidden;
+      this._details.hidden = !expanding;
+      this._nameButton.setAttribute("aria-expanded", String(expanding));
+    });
+  }
+
+  // Called once map.js's GET /api/hiking-trails check resolves. Switches
+  // this item from "online raster, plain on/off" to "offline vector,
+  // pick your countries" — the two are mutually exclusive rather than
+  // both offered at once, since once a real local extract exists there's
+  // no reason to still fall back to a third-party tile server for any of
+  // it.
+  setOfflineCountries(countries) {
+    this._offlineCountries = countries;
+    if (countries.length === 0) return;
+
+    if (this._active) this._toggleOnline(false);
+    this._checkbox.hidden = true;
+
+    this._countryList.innerHTML = countries
+      .map(
+        (code) => `
+          <li class="hiking-trail-countries__item">
+            <label>
+              <input type="checkbox" class="hiking-trail-countries__toggle" value="${code}">
+              ${code}
+            </label>
+          </li>
+        `,
+      )
+      .join("");
+    this._countryList.querySelectorAll(".hiking-trail-countries__toggle").forEach((input) => {
+      input.addEventListener("change", (event) => this._toggleCountry(event.target.value, event.target.checked));
+    });
+  }
+
+  _toggleOnline(active) {
+    this._active = active;
+    if (active) this._addOnlineLayer();
+    else this._removeOnlineLayer();
+  }
+
+  async _toggleCountry(code, active) {
+    if (!active) {
+      this._selectedCountries.delete(code);
+      this._rebuildLanes();
+      return;
+    }
+    this._selectedCountries.add(code);
+    if (!this._trailData.has(code)) {
+      let geojson;
+      try {
+        geojson = await (await fetch(offlineUrl(code))).json();
+      } catch {
+        return; // degrade quietly, same story as every other optional layer here
+      }
+      // Normalized once here so an untrustworthy `colour` tag value never
+      // reaches the layer's color directly — same reasoning gpx.js's own
+      // feature.properties.color ||= TRACK_COLOR normalization gives.
+      for (const feature of geojson.features) {
+        feature.properties.color = normalizedTrailColor(feature.properties.colour);
+      }
+      this._trailData.set(code, geojson);
+      if (!this._selectedCountries.has(code)) return; // toggled back off while fetching
+    }
+    this._rebuildLanes();
+  }
+
+  // Rebuilt from scratch on every country toggle and style swap (setStyle
+  // drops custom layers too) — lane order depends on every route drawn, so
+  // there's no cheaper incremental path. Ordering runs in a worker; a newer
+  // rebuild started meanwhile wins, same token guard as _handleOnlineClick.
+  async _rebuildLanes() {
+    const build = (this._lanesBuild = {});
+    const features = [...this._selectedCountries].flatMap((code) => this._trailData.get(code)?.features || []);
+    let graph = null;
+    if (features.length > 0) {
+      graph = buildLineGraph(features, { routeProperty: "id" });
+      await orderLanesAsync(graph);
+    }
+    if (this._lanesBuild !== build) return;
+
+    this._hidePanel();
+    if (this._map.getLayer(LANES_LAYER_ID)) this._map.removeLayer(LANES_LAYER_ID);
+    this._lanes = null;
+    this._routeInfo = new Map(features.map((feature) => [String(feature.properties.id), feature.properties]));
+    if (!graph) return;
+
+    this._lanes = new LaneLayer({ id: LANES_LAYER_ID, graph, sizes: LANE_SIZES, casingColor: "rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.8)" });
+    // Below labels (same firstSymbolLayerId spot contour.js/radar.js use),
+    // so place names/POI icons stay readable on top of the trail lines.
+    this._map.addLayer(this._lanes, firstSymbolLayerId(this._map));
+  }
+
+  _handleClick(event) {
+    if (this._selectedCountries.size > 0) this._handleOfflineClick(event);
+    else if (this._active) this._handleOnlineClick(event);
+  }
+
+  // The lanes have real geometry to hit-test directly — no network
+  // round-trip, so this resolves instantly. Each route has its own lane, so
+  // a click picks exactly one, highlighted by the layer itself. A genuine
+  // miss just closes an already-open panel rather than showing a "not
+  // found" message, same as clicking empty space anywhere else on the map.
+  _handleOfflineClick(event) {
+    const hit = this._lanes?.queryLane(event.point, 8);
+    const info = hit && this._routeInfo.get(String(hit.route));
+    if (!info) {
+      this._hidePanel();
+      return;
+    }
+    this._lanes.setHighlight(hit.route);
+    this._showPanel(routeHtml(info));
+  }
+
+  _showPanel(html) {
+    this._panelBody.innerHTML = html;
+    this._panel.hidden = false;
+  }
+
+  _hidePanel() {
+    if (this._panel.hidden) return;
+    this._panel.hidden = true;
+    this._clearHighlight();
+  }
+
+  // The raster tiles have no queryable features (they're pixels), so
+  // "what trail is this" is answered with a one-off Overpass query instead
+  // of a MapLibre feature hit-test — an `around` search rather than an
+  // exact point match, since a click rarely lands exactly on the (already
+  // pixel-thick) rendered line.
+  async _handleOnlineClick(event) {
+    const { lng, lat } = event.lngLat;
+    this._showPanel(`<p class="gpx-popup__category">Looking for trails…</p>`);
+    // A newer click's request replaces this one while Overpass is still
+    // answering — same "in-flight response arrives after it's already
+    // stale" guard the old Popup-identity check gave, just keyed off a
+    // fresh token each click instead of a fresh Popup instance.
+    const request = (this._onlineRequest = {});
+
+    let relations;
+    try {
+      relations = await fetchNearbyRoutes(lng, lat);
+    } catch {
+      if (this._onlineRequest === request) this._panelBody.innerHTML = `<p class="gpx-popup__category">Could not reach Overpass.</p>`;
+      return;
+    }
+    if (this._onlineRequest !== request) return;
+
+    if (relations.length === 0) {
+      this._panelBody.innerHTML = `<p class="gpx-popup__category">No hiking trail found here.</p>`;
+      return;
+    }
+    this._panelBody.innerHTML = relations.map((relation) => routeHtml(overpassRouteInfo(relation))).join("<hr>");
+    this._setHighlight(relations.map((relation) => ({ geometry: routeGeometry(relation), color: normalizedTrailColor(relation.tags?.colour) })));
+  }
+
+  _addOnlineLayer() {
+    if (this._map.getSource(ONLINE_SOURCE_ID)) return;
+
+    this._map.addSource(ONLINE_SOURCE_ID, {
+      type: "raster",
+      tiles: [TILE_URL],
+      tileSize: 256,
+      maxzoom: 17,
+      attribution: ATTRIBUTION,
+    });
+    // Below labels (same firstSymbolLayerId spot contour.js/radar.js use),
+    // so place names/POI icons stay readable on top of the trail lines.
+    this._map.addLayer(
+      { id: ONLINE_LAYER_ID, type: "raster", source: ONLINE_SOURCE_ID, paint: { "raster-opacity": OPACITY } },
+      firstSymbolLayerId(this._map),
+    );
+  }
+
+  _removeOnlineLayer() {
+    if (this._map.getLayer(ONLINE_LAYER_ID)) this._map.removeLayer(ONLINE_LAYER_ID);
+    if (this._map.getSource(ONLINE_SOURCE_ID)) this._map.removeSource(ONLINE_SOURCE_ID);
+  }
+
+  // features: an array of { geometry, color } — geometry a GeoJSON
+  // LineString or MultiLineString (mixed is fine), color the trail's own
+  // (already-normalized) colour — everything the last click matched, drawn
+  // as one highlight layer (a wider outline in the trail's own color,
+  // rather than a fixed color that would repaint it) on top of the base
+  // trail rendering.
+  _setHighlight(features) {
+    const data = {
+      type: "FeatureCollection",
+      features: features.map(({ geometry, color }) => ({ type: "Feature", properties: { color }, geometry })),
+    };
+    const source = this._map.getSource(HIGHLIGHT_SOURCE_ID);
+    if (source) {
+      source.setData(data);
+      return;
+    }
+    this._map.addSource(HIGHLIGHT_SOURCE_ID, { type: "geojson", data });
+    this._map.addLayer({
+      id: HIGHLIGHT_LAYER_ID,
+      type: "line",
+      source: HIGHLIGHT_SOURCE_ID,
+      layout: { "line-cap": "round", "line-join": "round" },
+      paint: { "line-color": ["get", "color"], "line-width": 5, "line-opacity": 0.9 },
+    });
+  }
+
+  _clearHighlight() {
+    this._lanes?.setHighlight(null);
+    if (this._map.getLayer(HIGHLIGHT_LAYER_ID)) this._map.removeLayer(HIGHLIGHT_LAYER_ID);
+    if (this._map.getSource(HIGHLIGHT_SOURCE_ID)) this._map.removeSource(HIGHLIGHT_SOURCE_ID);
+  }
+}
+
+// way(around:...) finds candidate ways near the click, then rel(bw...)
+// walks backward from those to their parent relations — the same
+// find-the-way-then-its-relation shape as clicking a route on
+// waymarkedtrails.org's own site. `out geom` inlines each member way's
+// full coordinate list right on the relation, so no separate stitching
+// step is needed to get real geometry back.
+async function queryOverpass(url, query) {
+  const response = await fetch(url, { method: "POST", body: `data=${encodeURIComponent(query)}` });
+  if (!response.ok) throw new Error(`overpass ${response.status}`);
+  return response.json();
+}
+
+async function fetchNearbyRoutes(lng, lat) {
+  const query = `[out:json][timeout:15];way(around:${CLICK_RADIUS_M},${lat},${lng})->.w;rel(bw.w)["route"="hiking"];out geom;`;
+  const data = await Promise.any(OVERPASS_APIS.map((url) => queryOverpass(url, query)));
+  return (data.elements || []).filter((element) => element.type === "relation");
+}
+
+// OSM doesn't tag a route's length directly — summed from each member
+// way's own geometry instead, same haversine-sum measure.js's own Measure
+// tool uses for a hand-drawn line. Shared endpoints between adjacent ways
+// get walked twice, same as how a real hike over those ways would. Mirrors
+// Maptool::HikingTrails.relation_feature's own distance calc server-side
+// (lib/maptool/hiking_trails.rb) — this is the online, no-server-file path.
+function routeDistance(relation) {
+  return (relation.members || [])
+    .filter((member) => member.type === "way" && member.geometry)
+    .reduce((total, member) => total + lineLength(member.geometry.map((point) => [point.lon, point.lat])), 0);
+}
+
+// Same member-way walk as routeDistance above, collecting coordinates
+// instead of summing them — the online click highlight's geometry source,
+// since there's no vector feature to read it back from the way the offline
+// layer's own queryRenderedFeatures result already carries one.
+function routeGeometry(relation) {
+  const lines = (relation.members || [])
+    .filter((member) => member.type === "way" && member.geometry)
+    .map((member) => member.geometry.map((point) => [point.lon, point.lat]));
+  return { type: "MultiLineString", coordinates: lines };
+}
+
+// Adapts a raw Overpass relation into the same shape offline GeoJSON
+// features' properties already carry (lib/maptool/hiking_trails.rb's own
+// ROUTE_TAGS + distance_meters + id) — one HTML builder (routeHtml) below
+// serves both instead of two near-identical ones.
+function overpassRouteInfo(relation) {
+  const tags = relation.tags || {};
+  return {
+    id: relation.id,
+    name: tags.name,
+    description: tags.description,
+    colour: tags.colour,
+    network: tags.network,
+    operator: tags.operator,
+    ref: tags.ref,
+    distance_meters: routeDistance(relation),
+  };
+}
+
+function routeHtml(info) {
+  const name = info.name || info.description || "Hiking trail";
+  const swatch = SAFE_COLOR.test(info.colour || "")
+    ? `<span class="hiking-trail-popup__swatch" style="background:${info.colour}"></span>`
+    : "";
+  const meta = [formatDistance(info.distance_meters || 0)];
+  if (info.ref) meta.push(`#${info.ref}`);
+  if (info.network) meta.push(info.network);
+  if (info.operator) meta.push(escapeHtml(info.operator));
+
+  const parts = [
+    `<div class="gpx-popup__header"><strong>${escapeHtml(name)}</strong>${swatch}</div>`,
+    `<p class="gpx-popup__category">${meta.filter(Boolean).join(" · ")}</p>`,
+  ];
+  // description already used as the title above when there's no name — only
+  // shown again here as its own line if there both is a name *and* a
+  // description to add, so it's never rendered twice for the common
+  // no-name case.
+  if (info.name && info.description) parts.push(`<p class="gpx-popup__description">${escapeHtml(info.description)}</p>`);
+  parts.push(
+    `<p class="gpx-popup__link"><a href="https://www.openstreetmap.org/relation/${info.id}" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">View on OpenStreetMap →</a></p>`,
+  );
+  return parts.join("");
+}

public/js/icons.js

@@ -328,7 +328,11 @@ const FISHING_ICON = `
 const SCENIC_VIEWPOINT_ICON = `
 <svg viewBox="0 0 22 22" fill="currentColor"><g transform="translate(4.000000, 0.000000)"><path d="M3.2,11c0,1.2-0.9,2.2-2.1,2.2c-1.2,0-2.1-1-2.1-2.2 c0-1.2,0.9-2.2,2.1-2.2C2.2,8.8,3.2,9.8,3.2,11"/><path d="M4.6,10.4v1.3l10.6,0.8v-3L4.6,10.4"/><path d="M2.3,7.5l1.1,0.7L7.7,2L5.3,0.5L2.3,7.5"/><path d="M4.4,9.8l7.9-3.8l-1.4-2.6L3.8,8.6L4.4,9.8z"/><path d="M2.3,14.5l1.1-0.7l4.3,6.2l-2.4,1.5L2.3,14.5"/><path d="M3.8,13.4l0.6-1.2l7.9,3.8l-1.4,2.6L3.8,13.4"/></g></svg>`;
 
-const WALKING_ICON = `
+// Exported (unlike the other POI glyphs around it) — also used as the
+// Overlays panel's Hiking trails glyph (hiking_trails.js), same "reuse an
+// existing NPS-sourced pictogram" story as WILDERNESS_ICON above rather
+// than hand-drawing another one.
+export const WALKING_ICON = `
 <svg viewBox="0 0 22 22" fill="currentColor"><path d="M10.4,3.6c1,0,1.8-0.8,1.7-1.8c0-1-0.8-1.8-1.8-1.7c-1,0-1.8,0.8-1.7,1.8C8.6,2.8,9.5,3.6,10.4,3.6z"/><path d="M16.5,9.5L13.9,8l-2.2-3.4c-0.3-0.4-0.9-0.8-1.5-0.7C9.7,4,9.3,4.2,9,4.4L5.8,7.7C5.7,7.8,5.6,8,5.6,8.1l-0.4,3.6 c0,0,0,0.1,0,0.1c0,0.4,0.4,0.8,0.8,0.8c0.4,0,0.7-0.4,0.8-0.8l0.3-3.1l1.1-1.1l-1,8.6l-1.9,4.1c-0.1,0.1-0.1,0.3-0.1,0.5 c0,0.7,0.6,1.2,1.2,1.2c0.5,0,0.9-0.3,1.1-0.7l2-4.4c0-0.1,0.2-0.4,0.2-0.5l0.2-2.1l2.1,6.9c0.2,0.5,0.6,0.8,1.2,0.8 c0.7,0,1.2-0.6,1.2-1.2c0-0.1,0-0.1,0-0.2L11.5,11l0.4-3.1l0.8,1.3c0.1,0.1,0.1,0.2,0.2,0.2l2.8,1.6c0.1,0,0.2,0.1,0.4,0.1 c0.4,0,0.8-0.4,0.8-0.8C16.9,9.8,16.7,9.6,16.5,9.5z"/></svg>`;
 
 const GUIDED_TOURS_ICON = `

public/js/livetrack.js

@@ -5,6 +5,11 @@ import { notifySidePanelOpen, onlyOneSidePanelOpen } from "/js/panels.js";
 const SESSIONS_URL = "/api/livetrack/sessions";
 const TRACK_SOURCE = "livetrack-track";
 const TRACK_COLOR = "#7209b7";
+// The planned route (only present when the activity was started from a
+// saved Garmin course, see LiveTrackClient#fetch) — dashed and muted so it
+// reads as a reference line, not more recorded data next to the actual
+// track's own color.
+const PLANNED_COLOR = "#888";
 // Garmin devices post a new point roughly every 15s (postTrackPointFrequency
 // in the session data) — polling twice that often would just re-fetch the
 // same 400+KB page for nothing most of the time.
@@ -171,11 +176,22 @@ export class LiveTrackPanelControl {
     if (this._map.getSource(TRACK_SOURCE)) return;
 
     this._map.addSource(TRACK_SOURCE, { type: "geojson", data: geojson });
+    // Added before the actual track's own line layer so it paints
+    // underneath — the recorded track is the thing that actually matters
+    // when the two overlap.
+    this._map.addLayer({
+      id: `${TRACK_SOURCE}-planned`,
+      type: "line",
+      source: TRACK_SOURCE,
+      filter: ["all", ["==", ["geometry-type"], "LineString"], ["==", ["get", "kind"], "planned"]],
+      layout: { "line-cap": "round", "line-join": "round" },
+      paint: { "line-color": PLANNED_COLOR, "line-width": 2, "line-dasharray": [2, 2] },
+    });
     this._map.addLayer({
       id: `${TRACK_SOURCE}-line`,
       type: "line",
       source: TRACK_SOURCE,
-      filter: ["==", ["geometry-type"], "LineString"],
+      filter: ["all", ["==", ["geometry-type"], "LineString"], ["==", ["get", "kind"], "actual"]],
       layout: { "line-cap": "round", "line-join": "round" },
       paint: { "line-color": TRACK_COLOR, "line-width": 3 },
     });

public/js/map.js

@@ -355,6 +355,65 @@ class ZoomLevelControl {
   }
 }
 
+// Tilts the camera between a flat top-down view and a fixed 3D-perspective
+// pitch — bearing stays untouched (this map never rotates, see the
+// NavigationControl comment below), so this is purely "look at it from an
+// angle", not a rotate/compass control. Independent of the "Terrain
+// shading" overlay toggle (overlays.js) — that adds a raster-dem hillshade/
+// color-relief layer, this just moves the camera; combining both gives a
+// real sense of relief but neither depends on the other.
+const PITCH_3D = 60;
+
+class PitchToggleControl {
+  onAdd(map) {
+    this._map = map;
+    this._container = document.createElement("div");
+    this._container.className = "maplibregl-ctrl maplibregl-ctrl-group pitch-toggle-ctrl";
+    this._button = document.createElement("button");
+    this._button.type = "button";
+    this._button.className = "pitch-toggle-ctrl__button";
+    this._button.addEventListener("click", () => this._toggle());
+    this._container.appendChild(this._button);
+
+    this._update = () => this._render();
+    map.on("pitchend", this._update);
+    this._render();
+
+    return this._container;
+  }
+
+  onRemove() {
+    this._map.off("pitchend", this._update);
+    this._container.remove();
+  }
+
+  getDefaultPosition() {
+    return "top-left";
+  }
+
+  // Set once overlaysControl exists (it's built later in this file) —
+  // lets raised terrain (OverlaysControl.syncTerrain, see overlays.js)
+  // follow the pitch toggle without this control needing to know anything
+  // about hillshade/DEM sources itself.
+  setOverlaysControl(overlaysControl) {
+    this._overlaysControl = overlaysControl;
+    this._overlaysControl.syncTerrain(this._map.getPitch() > 0);
+  }
+
+  _toggle() {
+    this._map.easeTo({ pitch: this._map.getPitch() > 0 ? 0 : PITCH_3D, duration: 300 });
+  }
+
+  _render() {
+    const is3d = this._map.getPitch() > 0;
+    this._button.textContent = is3d ? "2D" : "3D";
+    this._button.title = is3d ? "Switch to 2D view" : "Switch to 3D view";
+    this._button.setAttribute("aria-label", this._button.title);
+    this._button.classList.toggle("active", is3d);
+    this._overlaysControl?.syncTerrain(is3d);
+  }
+}
+
 const map = new MaplibreMap({
   container: "map",
   style: ONLINE_STYLE,
@@ -391,6 +450,8 @@ map.addControl(new HomeButton({ bounds: SLOVAKIA_BOUNDS }), "top-left");
 // (NavigationControl's default third button) would just be dead weight.
 map.addControl(new NavigationControl({ showCompass: false }), "top-left");
 map.addControl(new ZoomLevelControl(), "top-left");
+const pitchToggle = new PitchToggleControl();
+map.addControl(pitchToggle, "top-left");
 map.addControl(new MeasureControl(), "top-left");
 // Writing a note needs a login (POST /api/gpx/notes) — no point adding a
 // button that can only ever end in a 401 for a logged-out viewer, same
@@ -487,6 +548,7 @@ sidebar.insertAdjacentHTML("beforeend", `<div class="sidebar-group-label" title=
 new GpxPanelControl(map, profilePanel).mount(sidebar);
 const overlaysControl = new OverlaysControl(map);
 overlaysControl.mount(sidebar);
+pitchToggle.setOverlaysControl(overlaysControl);
 // Running a plugin needs a login (POST /api/plugins/:name/run) — same
 // "hide the write-only affordance" story as NotesControl above.
 if (isLoggedIn()) new PluginsControl(map).mount(sidebar);
@@ -545,6 +607,11 @@ fetch("/api/terrain-tiles")
   })
   .catch(() => {});
 
+fetch("/api/hiking-trails")
+  .then((response) => response.json())
+  .then(({ countries }) => overlaysControl.setHikingTrailsOfflineCountries(countries))
+  .catch(() => {});
+
 fetch("/api/kiwix")
   .then((response) => response.json())
   .then(({ available }) => overlaysControl.setWikiAvailable(available))

public/js/measure.js

@@ -317,7 +317,9 @@ function haversine([lng1, lat1], [lng2, lat2]) {
   return 2 * EARTH_RADIUS_M * Math.asin(Math.sqrt(a));
 }
 
-function lineLength(points) {
+// Exported — also used by hiking_trails.js to total up an OSM route
+// relation's member ways into one distance, same haversine-sum approach.
+export function lineLength(points) {
   let total = 0;
   for (let i = 1; i < points.length; i++) total += haversine(points[i - 1], points[i]);
   return total;
@@ -347,7 +349,8 @@ function polygonArea(points) {
   return Math.abs((area * EARTH_RADIUS_M * EARTH_RADIUS_M) / 2);
 }
 
-function formatDistance(meters) {
+// Exported — also used by hiking_trails.js's route-details popup.
+export function formatDistance(meters) {
   if (meters === 0) return "";
   return meters >= 1000 ? `${(meters / 1000).toFixed(2)} km` : `${Math.round(meters)} m`;
 }

public/js/offline_data.js

@@ -17,12 +17,14 @@ function formatElapsed(ms) {
   return minutes > 0 ? `${minutes}m ${seconds}s` : `${seconds}s`;
 }
 
-// "Building…" alone gave no way to tell a slow build from a stuck one —
+// "Building…" alone gave no way to tell a slow build from a stuck one, or
-// elapsed time answers "is it alive" regardless of how long a given
+// which of the current selection's sources it's actually working on right
-// selection takes.
+// now — elapsed time answers "is it alive", status.step (see
+// PmtilesBuilder.run_job) answers "doing what, and what's left".
 function formatRunning(status) {
   const elapsed = status.started_at ? ` (${formatElapsed(Date.now() - new Date(status.started_at).getTime())})` : "";
-  return `Building…${elapsed}`;
+  const step = status.step ? `: ${status.step}` : "";
+  return `Building…${elapsed}${step}`;
 }
 
 // Vendored square-cropped SVGs (public/vendor/flag-icons/, MIT, see
@@ -79,26 +81,72 @@ class RegionPicker {
     container.appendChild(section);
 
     let data;
+    let cache;
     try {
-      data = await (await fetch("/api/offline-regions")).json();
+      [data, cache] = await Promise.all([
+        fetch("/api/offline-regions").then((r) => r.json()),
+        fetch("/api/offline-tiles/cache").then((r) => r.json()),
+      ]);
     } catch {
       this._list.innerHTML = `<li class="offline-data-panel__region-status">Could not load the region list.</li>`;
       return;
     }
 
     const selected = new Set(data.selected);
+    const cached = new Map(cache.extracts.map((e) => [e.code, e]));
     this._list.innerHTML = data.available
-      .map(
+      .map((region) => {
-        (region) => `
+        const extract = cached.get(region.code);
+        // Downloaded-but-not-(yet)-built is a real state (ticked, not
+        // Applied yet) as is built-but-no-longer-selected (unticked since)
+        // — this badge reflects the cache on disk, independent of either.
+        const cacheInfo = extract
+          ? `
+          <span class="offline-data-panel__cache-info">
+            ${formatBytes(extract.size)}
+            ${
+              isLoggedIn()
+                ? `<button type="button" class="offline-data-panel__cache-delete" data-code="${escapeHtml(region.code)}" data-name="${escapeHtml(region.name)}" title="Delete downloaded data for ${escapeHtml(region.name)}">✕</button>`
+                : ""
+            }
+          </span>`
+          : "";
+        return `
         <li>
           <label>
             <input type="checkbox" value="${escapeHtml(region.code)}" ${selected.has(region.code) ? "checked" : ""}>
             <img class="offline-data-panel__flag" src="${flagIconUrl(region.code)}" alt="" width="18" height="18">
             ${escapeHtml(region.name)}
           </label>
-        </li>`,
+          ${cacheInfo}
-      )
+        </li>`;
+      })
       .join("");
+
+    this._list.querySelectorAll(".offline-data-panel__cache-delete").forEach((button) => {
+      button.addEventListener("click", () => this._deleteCache(button));
+    });
+  }
+
+  // Removes just this row's cache badge on success, rather than re-fetching
+  // and re-rendering the whole list — that would also overwrite whatever
+  // unticked/ticked-but-not-yet-Applied state the user has pending.
+  async _deleteCache(button) {
+    const code = button.dataset.code;
+    if (!window.confirm(`Delete downloaded data for ${button.dataset.name}? This can't be undone.`)) return;
+
+    button.disabled = true;
+    try {
+      const response = await fetch(`/api/offline-tiles/cache/${code}`, { method: "DELETE" });
+      const data = await response.json().catch(() => ({}));
+      if (!response.ok) throw new Error(data.error || `could not delete: ${response.status}`);
+    } catch (err) {
+      window.alert(err.message);
+      button.disabled = false;
+      return;
+    }
+
+    button.closest(".offline-data-panel__cache-info").remove();
   }
 
   async _apply() {
@@ -131,9 +179,10 @@ class RegionPicker {
 // one class covers both rather than writing the same fetch/poll logic
 // twice.
 class DataFileRow {
-  constructor({ label, statusUrl, buildUrl, buildStatusUrl, checkUpdateUrl, formatMeta }) {
+  constructor({ label, statusUrl, deleteUrl, buildUrl, buildStatusUrl, checkUpdateUrl, formatMeta }) {
     this._label = label;
     this._statusUrl = statusUrl;
+    this._deleteUrl = deleteUrl;
     this._buildUrl = buildUrl;
     this._buildStatusUrl = buildStatusUrl;
     this._checkUpdateUrl = checkUpdateUrl;
@@ -144,33 +193,71 @@ class DataFileRow {
     const row = document.createElement("div");
     row.className = "offline-data-panel__row";
     row.innerHTML = `
+      <div class="offline-data-panel__row-head">
         <strong>${this._label}</strong>
+        <button type="button" class="offline-data-panel__delete" hidden>Delete</button>
+      </div>
       <p class="offline-data-panel__status">Checking…</p>
     `;
     this._statusEl = row.querySelector(".offline-data-panel__status");
+    this._deleteButton = row.querySelector(".offline-data-panel__delete");
+    this._deleteButton.addEventListener("click", () => this._delete());
     container.appendChild(row);
     this._refreshStatus();
   }
 
+  // Single place that writes to _statusEl, so the error styling (pre-wrap,
+  // scrollable, red — see style.css) never stays stuck on once a build's
+  // failure message has scrolled past into a normal status line.
+  _setStatus(text, isError = false) {
+    this._statusEl.textContent = text;
+    this._statusEl.classList.toggle("offline-data-panel__status--error", isError);
+  }
+
   async _refreshStatus() {
     let data;
     try {
       data = await (await fetch(this._statusUrl)).json();
     } catch {
-      this._statusEl.textContent = "Could not check status.";
+      this._setStatus("Could not check status.");
       return;
     }
 
     if (!data.available) {
-      this._statusEl.textContent = "Not generated yet.";
+      this._setStatus("Not generated yet.");
+      this._deleteButton.hidden = true;
       return;
     }
 
     const updated = new Date(data.mtime).toLocaleString([], { dateStyle: "short", timeStyle: "short" });
-    this._statusEl.textContent = `${formatBytes(data.size)} · updated ${updated}${this._formatMeta(data.meta)}`;
+    this._setStatus(`${formatBytes(data.size)} · updated ${updated}${this._formatMeta(data.meta)}`);
+    this._deleteButton.hidden = !isLoggedIn();
     this._checkUpdate();
   }
 
+  // Deletes the built file (and, for offline.pmtiles, its whole per-country
+  // download cache — see PmtilesBuilder.delete_offline_data) so the row
+  // goes back to "Not generated yet." — a manual way to reclaim space or
+  // force a completely fresh rebuild, since Apply alone never removes
+  // anything already on disk.
+  async _delete() {
+    if (!window.confirm(`Delete ${this._label.toLowerCase()}? This can't be undone.`)) return;
+
+    this._deleteButton.disabled = true;
+    try {
+      const response = await fetch(this._deleteUrl, { method: "DELETE" });
+      const data = await response.json().catch(() => ({}));
+      if (!response.ok) throw new Error(data.error || `could not delete: ${response.status}`);
+    } catch (err) {
+      window.alert(err.message);
+      return;
+    } finally {
+      this._deleteButton.disabled = false;
+    }
+
+    this._refreshStatus();
+  }
+
   // Separate from _refreshStatus's own fetch (and only called once, right
   // after — not polled): this one reaches an external service (Geofabrik
   // or Mapterhorn's manifest, see lib/maptool/pmtiles_builder.rb), so it's
@@ -195,17 +282,34 @@ class DataFileRow {
   // Called by OfflineDataControl once RegionPicker's Apply has saved a
   // new selection — not tied to a button of this row's own.
   async triggerBuild() {
-    this._statusEl.textContent = "Starting…";
+    this._setStatus("Checking…");
+    try {
+      // false (not null/true — see offline_update_available? in
+      // pmtiles_builder.rb) means the just-saved selection matches what's
+      // already on disk byte-for-byte: same countries, nothing upstream
+      // changed. Rebuilding would just burn bandwidth/CPU to reproduce
+      // the same file, so skip it. null (never built, or can't tell)
+      // still falls through to building below.
+      const check = await (await fetch(this._checkUpdateUrl)).json();
+      if (check.update_available === false) {
+        this._refreshStatus();
+        return;
+      }
+    } catch {
+      // couldn't tell — fall through and build rather than silently skip
+    }
+
+    this._setStatus("Starting…");
     try {
       const response = await fetch(this._buildUrl, { method: "POST" });
       const data = await response.json().catch(() => ({}));
       if (!response.ok) throw new Error(data.error || `build failed: ${response.status}`);
     } catch (err) {
-      this._statusEl.textContent = err.message;
+      this._setStatus(err.message, true);
       return;
     }
 
-    this._statusEl.textContent = "Building…";
+    this._setStatus("Building…");
     this._poll();
   }
 
@@ -222,13 +326,13 @@ class DataFileRow {
       }
 
       if (status.state === "running") {
-        this._statusEl.textContent = formatRunning(status);
+        this._setStatus(formatRunning(status));
         this._poll();
         return;
       }
 
       if (status.state === "error") {
-        this._statusEl.textContent = `Build failed: ${status.message}`;
+        this._setStatus(`Build failed: ${status.message}`, true);
       } else {
         this._refreshStatus();
       }
@@ -249,6 +353,7 @@ export class OfflineDataControl {
       new DataFileRow({
         label: "Offline map data",
         statusUrl: "/api/offline-tiles",
+        deleteUrl: "/api/offline-tiles",
         buildUrl: "/api/offline-tiles/build",
         buildStatusUrl: "/api/offline-tiles/build-status",
         checkUpdateUrl: "/api/offline-tiles/check-update",
@@ -257,6 +362,7 @@ export class OfflineDataControl {
       new DataFileRow({
         label: "Offline terrain data",
         statusUrl: "/api/terrain-tiles",
+        deleteUrl: "/api/terrain-tiles",
         buildUrl: "/api/terrain-tiles/build",
         buildStatusUrl: "/api/terrain-tiles/build-status",
         checkUpdateUrl: "/api/terrain-tiles/check-update",

public/js/overlays.js

@@ -5,6 +5,7 @@ import { svgToImageData, badgeImageId, escapeHtml } from "/js/gpx.js";
 import { RadarControl } from "/js/radar.js";
 import { ShadowControl } from "/js/shadow.js";
 import { ContourControl } from "/js/contour.js";
+import { HikingTrailsControl } from "/js/hiking_trails.js";
 
 const ICON_IMAGE_SIZE = 48; // rasterized once at this size, rendered much smaller by icon-size below
 const ICON_SIZE = 0.3; // 48 * 0.3 = ~14px, sized to sit inside the marker badge below
@@ -16,6 +17,16 @@ const WIKI_BADGE_COLOR = "#795548";
 
 const HILLSHADE_ID = "hillshade-dem";
 const COLOR_RELIEF_ID = "elevation-tint";
+// MapLibre's own default light ({anchor:"viewport", intensity:0.5,
+// position:[1.15,210,30]}) sits the sun almost overhead (polar 30°) — fine
+// for flat 2D, but it barely rakes across 3D terrain at all, which is
+// most of why real relief still looked flat/washed out even once the mesh
+// itself was raised. Lower polar angle = lower sun = longer, more visible
+// slope shadows; azimuth 315 is the classic NW hillshade convention.
+// anchor:"map" (not "viewport") keeps the sun fixed to geography rather
+// than spinning with the camera as you look around a tilted view.
+const TERRAIN_LIGHT = { anchor: "map", color: "#fff", intensity: 0.6, position: [1.5, 315, 65] };
+const DEFAULT_LIGHT = { anchor: "viewport", color: "#fff", intensity: 0.5, position: [1.15, 210, 30] };
 // Hypsometric tint reusing this app's own palette (wood_a's green at
 // valley floor, the road casing brown through the mid-slopes) rather than
 // a generic rainbow ramp, so it reads as part of the same map rather than
@@ -52,6 +63,7 @@ class HillshadeControl {
     // sources/layers — put hillshade back if it was on.
     map.on("style.load", () => {
       if (this._active) this._addLayer();
+      this.syncTerrain(this._map.getPitch() > 0);
     });
   }
 
@@ -73,8 +85,44 @@ class HillshadeControl {
 
   _toggle(active) {
     this._active = active;
+    // Clear first: setTerrain may still be pointing at HILLSHADE_ID from
+    // before, and removing that source out from under it is worth avoiding
+    // even for the instant before syncTerrain below re-evaluates it.
+    if (this._map.getTerrain()) this._map.setTerrain(null);
     if (active) this._addLayer();
     else this._removeLayer();
+    this.syncTerrain(this._map.getPitch() > 0);
+  }
+
+  // Real terrain displacement (map.setTerrain), not just the flat
+  // hillshade/color-relief paint above — called both when this checkbox
+  // changes and when the 3D pitch toggle changes (map.js's
+  // PitchToggleControl, via OverlaysControl.syncTerrain below), since
+  // showing raised terrain needs both "tilted enough to see it" and "the
+  // DEM source this checkbox controls is actually loaded".
+  syncTerrain(pitched) {
+    // setLight/setTerrain throw if the style isn't loaded yet — called
+    // synchronously from map.js's setOverlaysControl during page init,
+    // before the first style.load; that listener re-invokes this once it
+    // actually is loaded, so bailing here just skips the premature call.
+    if (!this._map.isStyleLoaded()) return;
+    const terrainOn = pitched && this._active && this._map.getSource(HILLSHADE_ID);
+    if (terrainOn) {
+      this._map.setTerrain({ source: HILLSHADE_ID, exaggeration: 3 });
+    } else if (this._map.getTerrain()) {
+      this._map.setTerrain(null);
+    }
+    this._map.setLight(terrainOn ? TERRAIN_LIGHT : DEFAULT_LIGHT);
+    // The raster hillshade layer fakes relief by shading a flat texture —
+    // once real 3D geometry is doing that job (with its own lit shading
+    // for free), the raster version just looks like a blurry, low-res
+    // texture pasted on top of it. It's the only way to suggest relief in
+    // flat 2D though, so only hide it once real terrain is actually up.
+    // The color-relief elevation tint stays regardless — that's
+    // colour-by-height information, not a shading trick.
+    if (this._map.getLayer(HILLSHADE_ID)) {
+      this._map.setLayoutProperty(HILLSHADE_ID, "visibility", terrainOn ? "none" : "visible");
+    }
   }
 
   _addLayer() {
@@ -137,6 +185,7 @@ export class OverlaysControl {
     this._radar = new RadarControl(map);
     this._shadow = new ShadowControl(map);
     this._contour = new ContourControl(map);
+    this._hikingTrails = new HikingTrailsControl(map);
     this._wikiEnabled = false; // the checkbox's own state
     this._wikiMoveHandler = null; // the moveend listener driving its live refetch, while enabled
     this._wikiRequestSeq = 0; // ignores an in-flight refetch a newer one has already superseded
@@ -170,13 +219,15 @@ export class OverlaysControl {
       <li class="overlays-panel__item overlays-panel__item--expandable"></li>
       <li class="overlays-panel__item overlays-panel__item--expandable"></li>
       <li class="overlays-panel__item"></li>
+      <li class="overlays-panel__item overlays-panel__item--expandable"></li>
     `;
-    const [hillshadeItem, wikiItem, radarItem, shadowItem, contourItem] = list.children;
+    const [hillshadeItem, wikiItem, radarItem, shadowItem, contourItem, hikingTrailsItem] = list.children;
     this._hillshade.mount(hillshadeItem);
     this._mountWiki(wikiItem);
     this._radar.mount(radarItem);
     this._shadow.mount(shadowItem);
     this._contour.mount(contourItem);
+    this._hikingTrails.mount(hikingTrailsItem);
 
     onlyOneSidePanelOpen(this._panel, () => this._icon.classList.remove("active"));
 
@@ -194,6 +245,17 @@ export class OverlaysControl {
     this._hillshade.setOfflineAvailable(available);
   }
 
+  setHikingTrailsOfflineCountries(countries) {
+    this._hikingTrails.setOfflineCountries(countries);
+  }
+
+  // Called by map.js's PitchToggleControl whenever the 3D pitch toggle
+  // changes, so raised terrain follows the camera tilt rather than needing
+  // the "Terrain shading" checkbox re-clicked to notice.
+  syncTerrain(pitched) {
+    this._hillshade.syncTerrain(pitched);
+  }
+
   setShadowOfflineAvailable(available) {
     this._shadow.setOfflineAvailable(available);
   }

public/vendor/maplibre-gl-lanes/LICENSE

@@ -0,0 +1,21 @@
+MIT License
+
+Copyright (c) 2026 Steve Vigneau
+
+Permission is hereby granted, free of charge, to any person obtaining a copy
+of this software and associated documentation files (the "Software"), to deal
+in the Software without restriction, including without limitation the rights
+to use, copy, modify, merge, publish, distribute, sublicense, and/or sell
+copies of the Software, and to permit persons to whom the Software is
+furnished to do so, subject to the following conditions:
+
+The above copyright notice and this permission notice shall be included in all
+copies or substantial portions of the Software.
+
+THE SOFTWARE IS PROVIDED "AS IS", WITHOUT WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR
+IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO THE WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY,
+FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE AND NONINFRINGEMENT. IN NO EVENT SHALL THE
+AUTHORS OR COPYRIGHT HOLDERS BE LIABLE FOR ANY CLAIM, DAMAGES OR OTHER
+LIABILITY, WHETHER IN AN ACTION OF CONTRACT, TORT OR OTHERWISE, ARISING FROM,
+OUT OF OR IN CONNECTION WITH THE SOFTWARE OR THE USE OR OTHER DEALINGS IN THE
+SOFTWARE.

test/test_app.rb

@@ -39,6 +39,19 @@ class AppTest < Minitest::Test
     assert_equal({ "available" => false }, json_body(response))
   end
 
+  def test_hiking_trails_reports_no_countries_when_none_extracted_yet
+    response = request.get("/api/hiking-trails")
+    assert_equal({ "countries" => [] }, json_body(response))
+  end
+
+  def test_hiking_trails_file_404s_for_a_country_with_no_extract
+    assert_equal 404, request.get("/tiles/hiking_trails/SK.geojson").status
+  end
+
+  def test_hiking_trails_file_404s_for_a_malformed_country_code
+    assert_equal 404, request.get("/tiles/hiking_trails/../../etc/passwd.geojson").status
+  end
+
   def test_kiwix_reports_unavailable_when_no_url_configured
     response = request.get("/api/kiwix")
     assert_equal({ "available" => false, "url" => "" }, json_body(response))
@@ -72,6 +85,9 @@ class AppTest < Minitest::Test
     assert_equal 401, request.post("/api/plugins/test-plugin/run").status
     assert_equal 401, request.post("/api/offline-tiles/build").status
     assert_equal 401, request.post("/api/terrain-tiles/build").status
+    assert_equal 401, request.delete("/api/offline-tiles").status
+    assert_equal 401, request.delete("/api/offline-tiles/cache/SK").status
+    assert_equal 401, request.delete("/api/terrain-tiles").status
   end
 
   # --- GPX/FIT upload and the tree ---
@@ -417,6 +433,50 @@ class AppTest < Minitest::Test
     thread&.join
   end
 
+  def test_offline_tiles_delete_is_ok_when_nothing_was_built
+    assert_equal 200, request.delete("/api/offline-tiles", **logged_in_env).status
+  end
+
+  def test_offline_tiles_delete_removes_the_file_and_cache
+    path = File.join(Maptool::App::DATA_DIR, "offline.pmtiles")
+    cache_dir = File.join(Maptool::App::DATA_DIR, "geofabrik_cache")
+    File.write(path, "fake")
+    FileUtils.mkdir_p(cache_dir)
+    File.write(File.join(cache_dir, "SK.osm.pbf"), "fake")
+
+    response = request.delete("/api/offline-tiles", **logged_in_env)
+
+    assert_equal 200, response.status
+    refute_path_exists path
+    refute_path_exists cache_dir
+  end
+
+  def test_offline_tiles_cache_lists_and_deletes_one_country
+    cache_dir = File.join(Maptool::App::DATA_DIR, "geofabrik_cache")
+    FileUtils.mkdir_p(cache_dir)
+    File.write(File.join(cache_dir, "SK.osm.pbf"), "fake")
+
+    extracts = json_body(request.get("/api/offline-tiles/cache"))["extracts"]
+    assert_equal ["SK"], extracts.map { |e| e["code"] }
+
+    response = request.delete("/api/offline-tiles/cache/SK", **logged_in_env)
+    assert_equal 200, response.status
+    refute_path_exists File.join(cache_dir, "SK.osm.pbf")
+  ensure
+    FileUtils.remove_entry(cache_dir) if cache_dir && Dir.exist?(cache_dir)
+  end
+
+  def test_offline_tiles_delete_is_409_when_a_build_is_running
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.set_selected_regions(Maptool::App::DATA_DIR, ["SK"])
+    gate = Queue.new
+    thread = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: Maptool::App::DATA_DIR, download_extract: ->(_url, _dest) { gate.pop })
+
+    assert_equal 409, request.delete("/api/offline-tiles", **logged_in_env).status
+  ensure
+    gate.push("unused")
+    thread&.join
+  end
+
   # --- LiveTrack webhook ---
 
   def test_livetrack_webhook_requires_the_configured_secret

test/test_hiking_trails.rb

@@ -0,0 +1,125 @@
+require_relative "test_helper"
+require "maptool/hiking_trails"
+
+# No real osmium calls — extract() is a thin subprocess-plus-parse wrapper
+# (same "not independently tested" reasoning OverpassPois.fetch gets), but
+# parse_opl is pure text in, GeoJSON out, and that's the part actually worth
+# protecting: the OPL escaping rules and the way-id -> relation-member
+# stitching are easy to get subtly wrong and osmium isn't installed in every
+# environment this test suite runs in.
+class HikingTrailsTest < Minitest::Test
+  def test_parse_opl_builds_a_multilinestring_from_member_way_geometry
+    opl = <<~OPL
+      w1 Thighway=path Nn10x20.087y49.179,n11x20.088y49.18
+      w2 Thighway=path Nn11x20.088y49.18,n12x20.089y49.181
+      r1 Troute=hiking,type=route,name=Rysy Mw1@,w2@
+    OPL
+
+    features = Maptool::HikingTrails.parse_opl(opl)["features"]
+
+    assert_equal 1, features.size
+    feature = features.first
+    assert_equal "MultiLineString", feature["geometry"]["type"]
+    assert_equal [[[20.087, 49.179], [20.088, 49.18]], [[20.088, 49.18], [20.089, 49.181]]], feature["geometry"]["coordinates"]
+    assert_equal "Rysy", feature["properties"]["name"]
+  end
+
+  def test_parse_opl_skips_relations_that_are_not_route_hiking
+    opl = <<~OPL
+      w1 Thighway=path Nn10x20.087y49.179,n11x20.088y49.18
+      r1 Ttype=multipolygon Mw1@outer
+    OPL
+
+    assert_empty Maptool::HikingTrails.parse_opl(opl)["features"]
+  end
+
+  def test_parse_opl_falls_back_to_description_when_there_is_no_name
+    opl = <<~OPL
+      w1 Thighway=path Nn10x20.087y49.179,n11x20.088y49.18
+      r1 Troute=hiking,type=route,description=Rázc.%20%pri%20%Žabom%20%potoku%20%-%20%Rysy Mw1@
+    OPL
+
+    feature = Maptool::HikingTrails.parse_opl(opl)["features"].first
+
+    assert_equal "Rázc. pri Žabom potoku - Rysy", feature["properties"]["name"]
+  end
+
+  def test_parse_opl_unescapes_commas_and_equals_in_tag_values
+    opl = <<~OPL
+      w1 Thighway=path Nn10x20.087y49.179,n11x20.088y49.18
+      r1 Troute=hiking,type=route,name=Salt%2c%%20%Pepper%3d%Co Mw1@
+    OPL
+
+    feature = Maptool::HikingTrails.parse_opl(opl)["features"].first
+
+    assert_equal "Salt, Pepper=Co", feature["properties"]["name"]
+  end
+
+  def test_parse_opl_carries_over_colour_network_operator_ref
+    opl = <<~OPL
+      w1 Thighway=path Nn10x20.087y49.179,n11x20.088y49.18
+      r1 Troute=hiking,type=route,name=Trail,colour=red,network=rwn,operator=KST,ref=0933 Mw1@
+    OPL
+
+    properties = Maptool::HikingTrails.parse_opl(opl)["features"].first["properties"]
+
+    assert_equal "red", properties["colour"]
+    assert_equal "rwn", properties["network"]
+    assert_equal "KST", properties["operator"]
+    assert_equal "0933", properties["ref"]
+  end
+
+  def test_parse_opl_computes_distance_from_member_way_geometry
+    # Roughly 111.2m per 0.001 degree of latitude at the equator.
+    opl = <<~OPL
+      w1 Thighway=path Nn10x0.0y0.0,n11x0.0y0.001
+      r1 Troute=hiking,type=route,name=Trail Mw1@
+    OPL
+
+    distance = Maptool::HikingTrails.parse_opl(opl)["features"].first["properties"]["distance_meters"]
+
+    assert_in_delta 111.2, distance, 1.0
+  end
+
+  def test_parse_opl_drops_a_relation_whose_member_ways_are_all_missing
+    opl = <<~OPL
+      r1 Troute=hiking,type=route,name=Ghost Mw999@
+    OPL
+
+    assert_empty Maptool::HikingTrails.parse_opl(opl)["features"]
+  end
+
+  def test_parse_opl_carries_the_osm_relation_id_for_cross_country_dedup
+    opl = <<~OPL
+      w1 Thighway=path Nn10x20.087y49.179,n11x20.088y49.18
+      r1246205 Troute=hiking,type=route,name=Trail Mw1@
+    OPL
+
+    feature = Maptool::HikingTrails.parse_opl(opl)["features"].first
+
+    assert_equal 1246205, feature["properties"]["id"]
+  end
+
+  def test_parse_opl_rounds_coordinates_to_5_decimal_places
+    opl = <<~OPL
+      w1 Thighway=path Nn10x20.0876543210y49.1791234567,n11x20.0880000001y49.1800000009
+      r1 Troute=hiking,type=route,name=Trail Mw1@
+    OPL
+
+    coords = Maptool::HikingTrails.parse_opl(opl)["features"].first["geometry"]["coordinates"]
+
+    assert_equal [[[20.08765, 49.17912], [20.088, 49.18]]], coords
+  end
+
+  def test_parse_opl_ignores_a_dangling_member_reference_but_keeps_the_rest
+    opl = <<~OPL
+      w1 Thighway=path Nn10x20.087y49.179,n11x20.088y49.18
+      r1 Troute=hiking,type=route,name=Trail Mw1@,w999@
+    OPL
+
+    features = Maptool::HikingTrails.parse_opl(opl)["features"]
+
+    assert_equal 1, features.size
+    assert_equal 1, features.first["geometry"]["coordinates"].size
+  end
+end

test/test_livetrack_client.rb

@@ -16,6 +16,7 @@ class LiveTrackClientTest < Minitest::Test
     <script>self.__next_f.push([1,"6:[\\"$\\",\\"div\\",null,{}]"])</script>
     <script>self.__next_f.push([1,"9:{\\"session\\":{\\"sessionName\\":\\"Test Ride\\",\\"start\\":\\"2026-01-01T00:00:00Z\\",\\"end\\":\\"2026-01-01T01:00:00Z\\"}}"])</script>
     <script>self.__next_f.push([1,"10:{\\"unrelated\\":true,\\"nested\\":{\\"data\\":{\\"pages\\":[{\\"trackPoints\\":[{\\"position\\":{\\"lat\\":48.1,\\"lon\\":17.2},\\"dateTime\\":\\"2026-01-01T00:00:00Z\\",\\"totalDistanceMeters\\":\\"$undefined\\"},{\\"position\\":{\\"lat\\":48.2,\\"lon\\":17.3},\\"dateTime\\":\\"2026-01-01T00:01:00Z\\",\\"activityType\\":\\"CYCLING\\",\\"totalDistanceMeters\\":5000,\\"totalDurationSecs\\":600}]}]}}}"])</script>
+    <script>self.__next_f.push([1,"11:{\\"courses\\":[{\\"name\\":\\"40 km okruh\\",\\"geoPoints\\":[{\\"position\\":{\\"lat\\":48.05,\\"lon\\":17.35},\\"distanceMeters\\":0},{\\"position\\":{\\"lat\\":48.06,\\"lon\\":17.36},\\"distanceMeters\\":1000}]}]}"])</script>
     </body></html>
   HTML
 
@@ -49,18 +50,52 @@ class LiveTrackClientTest < Minitest::Test
     assert_equal "Test Ride", summary["session_name"]
     assert_equal "CYCLING", summary["activity_type"]
     assert_equal 5000, summary["distance_meters"]
-    refute summary["active"], "session has an end timestamp"
+    refute summary["active"], "last track point is long in the past"
   end
 
-  def test_summarize_marks_active_when_session_has_no_end
+  # Not session["end"].nil? (the original signal, before 2026-09-20 — see
+  # LiveTrackClient's own comment): verified live against a real,
+  # still-recording session that day, Garmin had already set `end` to
+  # exactly start + 24h (the share link's own expiry, not an end time),
+  # so that check called an active session "ended".
+  def test_summarize_marks_active_when_last_point_is_recent
     payloads = @client.send(:parse_payloads, FAKE_PAGE)
     points = @client.send(:clean, @client.send(:search, payloads) { |n| n["trackPoints"] if n["trackPoints"].is_a?(Array) })
-    session = @client.send(:clean, @client.send(:search, payloads) { |n| n if n["sessionName"] }).merge("end" => nil)
+    points[-1] = points[-1].merge("dateTime" => Time.now.utc.iso8601)
+    # end present and in the future, same shape Garmin actually sends for a
+    # session that's still live — active must come from the point, not this.
+    session = @client.send(:clean, @client.send(:search, payloads) { |n| n if n["sessionName"] })
+                      .merge("end" => (Time.now.utc + 24 * 60 * 60).iso8601)
     result = Maptool::LiveTrackClient::Result.new(points: points, session: session)
 
     assert Maptool::LiveTrackClient.summarize(result)["active"]
   end
 
+  # Verified live the same day: Garmin updates a real session's `end` from
+  # the future placeholder to within a second of the last point's own
+  # time immediately once the activity is saved on the watch — so a fresh
+  # last point alone isn't enough, `end` already being in the past has to
+  # win even then.
+  def test_summarize_marks_inactive_once_end_is_in_the_past_even_with_a_fresh_point
+    payloads = @client.send(:parse_payloads, FAKE_PAGE)
+    points = @client.send(:clean, @client.send(:search, payloads) { |n| n["trackPoints"] if n["trackPoints"].is_a?(Array) })
+    points[-1] = points[-1].merge("dateTime" => Time.now.utc.iso8601)
+    session = @client.send(:clean, @client.send(:search, payloads) { |n| n if n["sessionName"] })
+                      .merge("end" => (Time.now.utc - 1).iso8601)
+    result = Maptool::LiveTrackClient::Result.new(points: points, session: session)
+
+    refute Maptool::LiveTrackClient.summarize(result)["active"]
+  end
+
+  def test_finds_the_planned_course_alongside_the_actual_track
+    payloads = @client.send(:parse_payloads, FAKE_PAGE)
+    course = @client.send(:clean, @client.send(:search, payloads) { |n| n["courses"].first if n["courses"].is_a?(Array) && !n["courses"].empty? })
+
+    assert_equal "40 km okruh", course["name"]
+    assert_equal 2, course["geoPoints"].size
+    assert_in_delta 48.06, course["geoPoints"].last["position"]["lat"]
+  end
+
   def test_no_track_points_found_in_a_page_without_them
     points = @client.send(:search, @client.send(:parse_payloads, "<html></html>")) { |n| n["trackPoints"] if n["trackPoints"].is_a?(Array) }
     assert_nil points

test/test_pmtiles_builder.rb

@@ -47,6 +47,21 @@ class PmtilesBuilderTest < Minitest::Test
     File.write(@pmtiles_fail, "#!/bin/sh\necho 'boom' >&2\nexit 1\n")
     File.chmod(0o755, @pmtiles_fail)
 
+    # Mimics go-pmtiles' real extract failure mode: hundreds of progress
+    # lines before the actual error — see command_output's tail-truncation.
+    @pmtiles_fail_noisy = File.join(@bin_dir, "pmtiles-fail-noisy")
+    File.write(@pmtiles_fail_noisy, <<~SH)
+      #!/bin/sh
+      i=0
+      while [ "$i" -lt 200 ]; do
+        echo "fetching $i dirs, $i chunks, 1 requests" >&2
+        i=$((i + 1))
+      done
+      echo "stream error: stream ID 9; INTERNAL_ERROR" >&2
+      exit 1
+    SH
+    File.chmod(0o755, @pmtiles_fail_noisy)
+
     # osmium merge PBF1 PBF2 ... -o OUTPUT — output is always "-o"'s next
     # arg, unlike pmtiles' varying-position output above.
     @osmium_ok = File.join(@bin_dir, "osmium-ok")
@@ -61,6 +76,27 @@ class PmtilesBuilderTest < Minitest::Test
     SH
     File.chmod(0o755, @osmium_ok)
 
+    # Same shape as osmium-ok, but fails on tags-filter specifically (the
+    # first subcommand HikingTrails.extract runs) while still succeeding
+    # on merge — lets a single-country build (which never calls merge)
+    # exercise "hiking-trails extraction failed" without also breaking
+    # offline.pmtiles' own osmium use in a multi-country test.
+    @osmium_fail_tags_filter = File.join(@bin_dir, "osmium-fail-tags-filter")
+    File.write(@osmium_fail_tags_filter, <<~SH)
+      #!/bin/sh
+      echo "osmium $1" >> "$PMTILES_LOG"
+      if [ "$1" = "tags-filter" ]; then
+        echo "boom" >&2
+        exit 1
+      fi
+      prev=""
+      for arg; do
+        if [ "$prev" = "-o" ]; then echo fake > "$arg"; fi
+        prev="$arg"
+      done
+    SH
+    File.chmod(0o755, @osmium_fail_tags_filter)
+
     # Stands in for `java -jar planetiler.jar --osm-path=... --output=OUT`
     # — PLANETILER_JAR itself is irrelevant here (this fake ignores -jar's
     # argument entirely), only JAVA_BIN needs pointing at it.
@@ -102,8 +138,12 @@ class PmtilesBuilderTest < Minitest::Test
   # download_extract stub: writes a marker file (same "fake" content the
   # pmtiles/osmium/java fixtures use) instead of hitting Geofabrik, and
   # returns a fixed Last-Modified so sidecar-meta assertions are stable.
-  def fake_download(last_modified: "Wed, 10 Sep 2026 08:00:01 GMT")
+  # `calls` (an Array, shared across builds if the caller wants it) records
-    ->(_url, dest) {
+  # every URL actually downloaded, for asserting the per-country cache
+  # skipped (or didn't skip) a re-download.
+  def fake_download(last_modified: "Wed, 10 Sep 2026 08:00:01 GMT", calls: nil)
+    ->(url, dest) {
+      calls << url if calls
       File.write(dest, "fake")
       last_modified
     }
@@ -167,15 +207,68 @@ class PmtilesBuilderTest < Minitest::Test
     thread.join
 
     assert_path_exists File.join(@data_dir, "offline.pmtiles")
-    refute_path_exists File.join(@data_dir, "offline.pmtiles.tmp")
+    refute_path_exists File.join(@data_dir, "offline.tmp.pmtiles")
     assert_equal "done", Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_status[:state]
-    assert_equal ["planetiler --osm-path"], log_lines
+    assert_equal ["planetiler --osm-path", "osmium tags-filter", "osmium add-locations-to-ways", "osmium cat"], log_lines
     assert_equal(
       { "sources" => [{ "code" => "SK", "slug" => "europe/slovakia", "last_modified" => "Wed, 10 Sep 2026 08:00:01 GMT" }] },
       Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_meta(@data_dir),
     )
   end
 
+  def test_build_offline_also_writes_a_per_country_hiking_trails_geojson
+    select_regions("SK")
+    thread = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: fake_download)
+    thread.join
+
+    # The fake osmium binary doesn't produce real OPL output, just
+    # confirms the file lands (one per country) and is valid (empty)
+    # GeoJSON — the real parsing logic is covered by test_hiking_trails.rb
+    # against real OPL fixtures.
+    assert_equal ["SK"], Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.hiking_trails_countries(@data_dir)
+    path = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.hiking_trails_country_path(@data_dir, "SK")
+    assert_equal({ "type" => "FeatureCollection", "features" => [] }, JSON.parse(File.read(path)))
+  end
+
+  def test_build_offline_only_re_extracts_hiking_trails_for_a_newly_added_country
+    select_regions("SK")
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: fake_download).join
+    File.write(@log, "")
+
+    select_regions("SK", "AT")
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(
+      data_dir: @data_dir,
+      download_extract: fake_download,
+      fetch_last_modified: ->(_url) { "Wed, 10 Sep 2026 08:00:01 GMT" },
+    ).join
+
+    # SK's cached extract is already newer than SK.osm.pbf (untouched
+    # since the first build), so only AT's hiking trails get (re-)extracted
+    # — SK.osm.pbf itself is also skipped by cached_extract's own
+    # Last-Modified check, "osmium merge" runs regardless since two
+    # countries are now selected.
+    assert_equal(
+      ["osmium merge", "planetiler --osm-path", "osmium tags-filter", "osmium add-locations-to-ways", "osmium cat"],
+      log_lines,
+    )
+    assert_equal %w[AT SK], Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.hiking_trails_countries(@data_dir)
+  end
+
+  # The actual reasoning: hiking trails are a bonus overlay bolted onto the
+  # existing offline.pmtiles build, not the core map — an osmium hiccup on
+  # this one step shouldn't take down an otherwise-successful build.
+  def test_build_offline_still_succeeds_when_hiking_trails_extraction_fails
+    select_regions("SK")
+    ENV["OSMIUM_BIN"] = @osmium_fail_tags_filter
+    thread = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: fake_download)
+    thread.join
+
+    assert_path_exists File.join(@data_dir, "offline.pmtiles")
+    assert_equal "done", Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_status[:state]
+    refute_path_exists File.join(@data_dir, "hiking_trails.geojson")
+    refute_path_exists "#{File.join(@data_dir, "hiking_trails.geojson")}.tmp"
+  end
+
   # Two countries selected — osmium merge should run before planetiler,
   # each downloaded source recorded in the sidecar meta.
   def test_build_offline_merges_multiple_selected_countries
@@ -184,11 +277,180 @@ class PmtilesBuilderTest < Minitest::Test
     thread.join
 
     assert_equal "done", Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_status[:state]
-    assert_equal ["osmium merge", "planetiler --osm-path"], log_lines
+    assert_equal(
+      [
+        "osmium merge", "planetiler --osm-path",
+        "osmium tags-filter", "osmium add-locations-to-ways", "osmium cat", # SK's own hiking-trails extraction
+        "osmium tags-filter", "osmium add-locations-to-ways", "osmium cat", # AT's own
+      ],
+      log_lines,
+    )
     codes = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_meta(@data_dir)["sources"].map { |s| s["code"] }
     assert_equal %w[SK AT], codes
   end
 
+  # The actual bug report this covers: hitting "Apply" after tweaking the
+  # region selection used to re-download every selected country's .osm.pbf
+  # from scratch, even ones already fetched by an earlier build.
+  def test_build_offline_skips_redownloading_an_unchanged_cached_country
+    select_regions("SK")
+    calls = []
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: fake_download(calls: calls)).join
+    assert_equal 1, calls.size
+
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(
+      data_dir: @data_dir,
+      download_extract: fake_download(calls: calls),
+      fetch_last_modified: ->(_url) { "Wed, 10 Sep 2026 08:00:01 GMT" },
+    ).join
+
+    assert_equal 1, calls.size
+    assert_equal "done", Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_status[:state]
+  end
+
+  def test_build_offline_redownloads_a_country_whose_extract_changed
+    select_regions("SK")
+    calls = []
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: fake_download(calls: calls)).join
+
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(
+      data_dir: @data_dir,
+      download_extract: fake_download(calls: calls, last_modified: "Thu, 11 Sep 2026 08:00:01 GMT"),
+      fetch_last_modified: ->(_url) { "Thu, 11 Sep 2026 08:00:01 GMT" },
+    ).join
+
+    assert_equal 2, calls.size
+  end
+
+  # A cache-freshness check that itself fails (Geofabrik unreachable) should
+  # fall back to re-downloading rather than aborting the build.
+  def test_build_offline_redownloads_when_the_cache_check_fails
+    select_regions("SK")
+    calls = []
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: fake_download(calls: calls)).join
+
+    fetch_last_modified = ->(_url) { raise Maptool::PmtilesBuilder::BuildError, "could not reach geofabrik" }
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(
+      data_dir: @data_dir,
+      download_extract: fake_download(calls: calls),
+      fetch_last_modified: fetch_last_modified,
+    ).join
+
+    assert_equal 2, calls.size
+    assert_equal "done", Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_status[:state]
+  end
+
+  def test_build_offline_only_downloads_a_newly_added_country
+    select_regions("SK")
+    calls = []
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: fake_download(calls: calls)).join
+
+    select_regions("SK", "AT")
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(
+      data_dir: @data_dir,
+      download_extract: fake_download(calls: calls),
+      fetch_last_modified: ->(_url) { "Wed, 10 Sep 2026 08:00:01 GMT" },
+    ).join
+
+    assert_equal 1, calls.count { |url| url.include?("slovakia") }
+    assert_equal 1, calls.count { |url| url.include?("austria") }
+  end
+
+  # offline_status[:step] should say which country is in flight right now
+  # and which of the current build's selection are already done/still
+  # pending — not just "running since X".
+  def test_build_offline_reports_progress_step_while_running
+    select_regions("SK", "AT")
+    started = Queue.new
+    gate = Queue.new
+    download_extract = ->(url, dest) {
+      started.push(url)
+      gate.pop
+      File.write(dest, "fake")
+      "Wed, 10 Sep 2026 08:00:01 GMT"
+    }
+    thread = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: download_extract)
+
+    started.pop
+    assert_equal "fetching SK (1/2) — pending: AT", Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_status[:step]
+    gate.push(:go)
+
+    started.pop
+    assert_equal "fetching AT (2/2) — done: SK", Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_status[:step]
+    gate.push(:go)
+
+    thread.join
+    assert_nil Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_status[:step]
+  end
+
+  def test_delete_offline_data_removes_the_file_meta_and_cache
+    select_regions("SK")
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: fake_download).join
+    assert_path_exists File.join(@data_dir, "offline.pmtiles")
+    assert_path_exists File.join(@data_dir, "geofabrik_cache", "SK.osm.pbf")
+
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.delete_offline_data(@data_dir)
+
+    refute_path_exists File.join(@data_dir, "offline.pmtiles")
+    refute_path_exists File.join(@data_dir, "geofabrik_cache")
+    assert_nil Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_meta(@data_dir)
+  end
+
+  def test_delete_offline_data_is_a_noop_when_nothing_was_built
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.delete_offline_data(@data_dir) # should not raise
+  end
+
+  def test_delete_offline_data_raises_while_a_build_is_running
+    select_regions("SK")
+    gate = Queue.new
+    thread = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: ->(_url, _dest) { gate.pop })
+
+    assert_raises(Maptool::PmtilesBuilder::BuildError) { Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.delete_offline_data(@data_dir) }
+  ensure
+    gate.push("unused")
+    thread&.join
+  end
+
+  def test_delete_cached_extract_removes_only_that_country
+    select_regions("SK", "AT")
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: fake_download).join
+
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.delete_cached_extract(@data_dir, "SK")
+
+    refute_path_exists File.join(@data_dir, "geofabrik_cache", "SK.osm.pbf")
+    assert_path_exists File.join(@data_dir, "geofabrik_cache", "AT.osm.pbf")
+  end
+
+  def test_delete_terrain_data_removes_the_file_and_meta
+    select_regions("ES")
+    ENV["PMTILES_BIN"] = @pmtiles_ok
+    thread = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_terrain(data_dir: @data_dir, fetch_manifest: -> { fake_manifest })
+    thread.join
+    assert_path_exists File.join(@data_dir, "terrain.pmtiles")
+
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.delete_terrain_data(@data_dir)
+
+    refute_path_exists File.join(@data_dir, "terrain.pmtiles")
+    assert_nil Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.terrain_meta(@data_dir)
+  end
+
+  def test_cached_extracts_is_empty_before_any_download
+    assert_empty Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.cached_extracts(@data_dir)
+  end
+
+  # Deliberately still selected — cached_extracts reflects the cache on
+  # disk, not the current selection or the last build's own meta (see
+  # cached_extracts' own comment for why those three can all disagree).
+  def test_cached_extracts_lists_what_was_downloaded
+    select_regions("SK", "AT")
+    Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_offline(data_dir: @data_dir, download_extract: fake_download).join
+
+    extracts = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.cached_extracts(@data_dir)
+    assert_equal %w[AT SK], extracts.map { |e| e["code"] }
+    assert_equal [4, 4], extracts.map { |e| e["size"] } # "fake".bytesize
+    assert_equal ["Wed, 10 Sep 2026 08:00:01 GMT"] * 2, extracts.map { |e| e["last_modified"] }
+  end
+
   def test_offline_meta_is_nil_before_any_build
     assert_nil Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.offline_meta(@data_dir)
   end
@@ -379,6 +641,22 @@ class PmtilesBuilderTest < Minitest::Test
     assert_match(/exited with status/, status[:message])
   end
 
+  # The real trigger for this: a Mapterhorn extract that failed after ~7000
+  # progress lines, producing a 500k+ character status[:message] that was
+  # unreadable in the web UI.
+  def test_build_terrain_truncates_a_noisy_command_failure
+    select_regions("ES")
+    ENV["PMTILES_BIN"] = @pmtiles_fail_noisy
+    thread = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.build_terrain(data_dir: @data_dir, fetch_manifest: -> { fake_manifest })
+    thread.join
+
+    status = Maptool::PmtilesBuilder.terrain_status
+    assert_equal "error", status[:state]
+    assert_match(/\(\d+ earlier lines omitted\)/, status[:message])
+    assert_match(/stream error: stream ID 9/, status[:message])
+    assert_operator status[:message].length, :<, 5000
+  end
+
   def test_build_terrain_raises_when_one_is_already_running
     select_regions("ES")
     ENV["PMTILES_BIN"] = @pmtiles_ok

views/index.erb

@@ -31,6 +31,11 @@
   <div class="profile-panel__charts"></div>
 </div>
 
+<div id="trail-panel" class="trail-panel" hidden>
+  <button type="button" class="trail-panel__close" aria-label="Close">&times;</button>
+  <div class="trail-panel__body"></div>
+</div>
+
 <div id="basemap-panel" class="basemap-panel" hidden>
   <div class="basemap-panel__header">
     <strong>Base map</strong>

views/layout.erb

@@ -35,6 +35,7 @@
         "/js/dem.js": "/js/dem.js?v=<%= ASSET_VERSION %>",
         "/js/gnss.js": "/js/gnss.js?v=<%= ASSET_VERSION %>",
         "/js/gpx.js": "/js/gpx.js?v=<%= ASSET_VERSION %>",
+        "/js/hiking_trails.js": "/js/hiking_trails.js?v=<%= ASSET_VERSION %>",
         "/js/icons.js": "/js/icons.js?v=<%= ASSET_VERSION %>",
         "/js/livetrack.js": "/js/livetrack.js?v=<%= ASSET_VERSION %>",
         "/js/locate.js": "/js/locate.js?v=<%= ASSET_VERSION %>",